To Power Condition or not?


I have 6 monblock amps (balanced bidging of Belles stereo amps).
4 are OCM 200s (100 amps of current / 400 watts balanced)
2 are the new 350A (>30 amps current / 800 watts balanced)
2 Velodyne Subs.

All front end components are through a Bybee Pro Conditioner (no amps connected)

I have been using a TICE Power block - Titan for the power amps and have run out of receptacles since I added 3 new amps. (only supports 6 power cords).

Questions:
Should I add another Tice Powerblock to expand the connections?
Should I use any power conditioning on the amps?
Should I run X+ new 20 amp circuits from the main electric supply panel and direct connect the amps & subs?
How do I eliminate the 100 Hz hum (other than lifting the grounds which seems to reduce it significantly)?
harleyhawk

Showing 1 response by subaruguru

Wow, thanks for the rec!
Yes, two years ago I installed dedicated lines and made my own PCs from the magical belden 83802, and have never looked back! Incredibly low noisefloor from the full shielding, nice current delivery from the 12AWG, and utter transparency from an ultralow loss all-Teflon dielectric.
I recently discovered that Schurter redesigned their old fragile solder-only IEC connector, now making a really great, heavy contact, screw-clamp design! Thus the idea of giving something back to the Audiogon community by assembling DIY PC Kits of this 83802 and fine connectors for only $35. I sell the 83802 raw for lines at $2.50/ft first 20', then $2.25 longer length. I'm thinking about duplicating the junction boxes I use. They comprise the great, cheap Pass & Seymour duplexes (silver-plated by Acme at $35 is PERHAPS cost-effective. Not sure.), set in all-aluminum junction boxes, hardwired to the brteaker panel.
I made one small one for digital (EMC-1 MKII and Alesis Masterlink), one for analog (MD100 tuner and Aleph P pre), and one with a 30amp switch for the monos in the basement (Aleph 2s). No conditioners, no surge protectors, no Wattagate-modified Marincos, just solid engineering, Teflon and 12AWG. Incredibly low noise floor! Sorry to wax on, but I believe that essentially hard-wiring your components to the breaker with good copper and all-Teflon is a cheap no-brainer. Let me know what you need. And don't think you'll need 10AWG unless you're running kilowatt monos more than 50 feet away.... Ern