Thinking About Upgrading the VPI Tonearm Base

I can't help much with the incremental upgrades, because I jumped directly to the classic 3 from the classic 1. I am very happy I did. From a resale perspective the classic 3 is class A in Stereophile 2013 recommended components. You won't necessarily get that from a resale perspective with incremental upgrades to the Classic 1. Although it would be much cheaper than a Classic 3. Don't forget you also get the outer record ring weight and center weight. You also get better eye candy with the classic 3, I think it is a fantastic looking table. The classic 1 is a good table, the classic 3 is a great table, I believe the plinth makes a huge difference in that respect, if you haven't seen a classic 3 , I suggest you look at one to see just the difference in the plinth. I believe the plinth contributes greatly to the much lower noise floor of the classic 3.

I made a comparison between the classic 1 and classic 3 as soon as I upgraded,everything else was exactly the same,only turntable changed on this thread.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1263789072&openflup&17&4#17

Good luck with your decision.

I've taken both apart, the classic 1 base and the classic 3 base. Both are directly bolted into the plinth, certainly the mass involved is a huge difference. The classic 3 base has a solid steel "hockey puck" with 3 holes drilled directly through it. On top of the hockey puck is base with threaded screw assembly with 2 guide rods. The black knurled knob assembly with tonearm rest screws on top of that. I should also mention there is a guide rod right next to the tonearm rest so there is only one way to screw on the upper assembly. You get a total of 15 turns before the top assembly is pretty close to coming off the middle screw assembly with guide rods. The pivot is offset from the hockey puck base, so the same 3 holes from the classic one base will not work, there will have to drill 3 new holes to get the same spindle to pivot distance and geometry. I guess if they don't want to drill and tap 3 new holes, they will have to include another base which will compensate for the offset. The holes in the plinth are tapped, so the Allen screws go directly into the plinth. With the upper assembly all the way down, knurled knob at zero, the tone arm is basically close to horizontal with most cartridges. The you have 15 turns, 100 units per turn, so 1500 units for VTA adjust.
I don't know about better sound quality, there is certainly a lot more mass, and the VTA adjust is very convenient. I have all the offsets computed for digital scale, MINTLP, 180 gram record, etc, as I posted in Acterseus post. So from a VTA standpoint it is super convenient. Also fun to play with on the fly to hear VTA differences.

FYI, link to the thread where I listed the VTA offsets for digital scale, MINTLP, 180 gram records, etc.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1366675416&openfrom&13&4#13

Bifwynne,
Now that you have the VTA tower, dial in your SRA, I did mine with a digital microscope at 91 degrees, then re-align with the MINTLP at that VTA/SRA. I think you will notice an improvement. BTW, what I just did is adjust my azimuth at my optimal SRA for lowest crosstalk in both channels. I used to try to achieve equal crosstalk, even if it was higher db. I recently went to the lowest crosstalk in both channels, even though they were 2 db difference and I believe it sounded better.