Thiel Owners

jafant

Thanks for asking about my summer , so far so good , the cooler and wetter spring has helped hold off the hot and dry summer forest fire season here in Oregon .

Tom has been working with internal wiring for a long time so I'm hoping he finds the Cardas chassis wiring as musical as both beetlemania and myself .  For me the synergy of the Cardas wiring both internal and external are a perfect match with Thiel speakers .

theaudiotweak  

after reading an earlier post by you I started replacing as many screws as I could ,  on the speakers , on the crossover boards , on the turntables tonearm base and even on the fuse panels outer cover ( only 6 screws so why not ) .  I tested screws on the amp , CD player , phono preamp and outlets , while they are not ferrous metal I will end up replacing them as time goes on , like you say a few dollars so why not .

I 

Robert 

For temporary listening test only!!!!!  Remove and then replace after testing the front panel and door assembly and take a listen to the improvement. I plan on having the machine shop I use that makes my brass parts for string instruments fabricate a hinged all-brass cover assembly.  I think the magnetic fields generated within the box are disturbed by the ferrous cover plate. These newly bent magnetic fields are reflected back into the same box and become a part of the power signal that travels to your components and elsewhere, Ideally an entirely new box and cover plate should be constructed and installed by a licensed professional. That would be a serious mod and undertaking. TomD

@jafant That Ayre uses Cardas wire so extensively is a clue that they source their copper from domestic sources, certainly not China. Charles Hansen was a huge fan of Cardas. And he posted at audioasylum regarding his experiences visiting speaker and electronic manufacturers in China. I think that informed his resolve to source as much as possible from domestic suppliers.

To my ears, the Cardas hookup wire was a really nice improvement over the OEM wire in my 2.4 upgrade. 

theaudiotweak

a brass door panel and new box are both great ideas but to expensive to explore ,

but you now have me thinking about trying to use MuMetal on the door and/or fuse panel .

When replacing a magnetic metal with a non-magnetic material, it's important to understand the function of the part. Often a chassis acts as a Faraday Cage where the entire envelope is engineered as a whole. Sometimes there are electrical value compensations for metals in proximity to circuitry.

I'm reminded of beetlemania's 2.4SE XOs, which turned out to be (late) made in China. The coils were different values to compensate for the electrical traces on the back side of the board. When we remanufactured his XOs on masonite, we returned to original coil inductance values to keep performance on spec.

Also, non-magnetic metals support electrical fields, which can be germane.

Just saying: everything is not always obvious.