Technics SP10 MK3 Restoration


Just got my SP10 MK3 base (motor unit & controller) back from JP at FidelisAnalog.com
JP is one of the most knowledgeable on the SP10 MK3 and is the one who designed and manufactures the MN6042 Speed Control chip that keeps these and other Technics turntable models still operating.

My SP10 MK3 came with the stock Technics SH-10B5 faux obsidian base.
It has very low hours of use , no signs of wear at all on the bearing and not a single blemish, other than some specs of dust and a couple spots on the copper part of the platter that need cleaning.
but I would like to have a 2 arm, constrained layer plinth built and have the motor unit mounted 'naked'. I am presently searching somewhat 'affordable' plinth builders and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The work that JP did to both the motor unit and the controller:

1.       Pre-refurbishment measurement to baseline the performance of the unit and to see if there are any underlying issues.
2. Cleaning of all PCBs to remove the factory conformal coating. At~40 years this coating tends to become hygroscopic which can cause stability issues.
3. Physical inspection of all solder joints under an inspection microscope. Many of the joints will exhibit annular deformities which can lead to joint fractures down the road. These must be cleared of the factory solder and re-soldered. There will also be poor joints that need the same treatment. You can’t just reflow as the solder alloys aren’t the same which can also cause joint failure down the road.
4. Electrolytic cap replacement and rectifier diode replacement.
5. Disassembly and cleaning of the motor. Bearing inspection and service work. Proper Anderol 465 oil is used for reassembly. Motor is then checked for any areas of bearing drag.
6. The brake solenoids typically needs cleaned, and band tension is adjusted.
7. Stop/start and speed selection switches in the motor chassis are measured for contact resistance. Too high of resistance is indicative of a switch failure in the future. In the control unit I typically replace all the tactile switches, and the start/stop switch if needed.
8. Relocation of the brake regulator transistor to the heatsink to prevent overheating of the board (factory design flaw).
9. MN6042 replacement installation.
10. PSU ripple check at all critical stages (10).
11.   Course calibration is performed and post-refurb baseline measurements for FG spectrum, motor drive phases, etc. are taken.

12.   After 48-hour run-in final calibrations and verification measurements are performed.

The basic service returns the unit to factory or better specifications (assuming no permanent bearing damage has occurred).   This service is quite exhaustive and very different from the typical work I see of just swapping some caps out, checking some voltages, and adjusting phase tracking.

The advanced service adds on top of the basic service:

1.       Replace all polyester capacitors.
2. Replace drive circuit metal oxide resistors.
3. Replace all voltage regulator ICs and update circuits.
4. Replacement of certain diodes.

Rick


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Showing 2 responses by has2be

" I have much better turntables for my needs (I designed custom made racks for each of them), I happy that a question about plinth does not exist for me anymore (my Luxman PD-444 comes in super heavy aluminum stock plinth"

@chakster 

The Luxman PD 444 do NOT have a heavy aluminum stock plinth.
The weight is two thick steel plates
sandwiched over a piece of bloody particle board,  then epoxy glued to a thin sheet of brushed Aluminum for dress. Most of that 50 plus pounds is the steel.

Besides didn't you say forget the table it doesn't matter its only the cart to worry about? Yet here you are with more bloated bragadocios nonsense and incomplete incorrect statements paraded as fact..... I owned one 40 plus years ago and even I can remember its make up ....
Quote
" I dont like plywood or panzerholz because they are dimensionally unstable in the long term - warping, expansion, contraction"
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Thats kind of both true and false in my experience. For large objects like a plinth and platforms it false. For smaller objects it is somewhat true like in a tonearm. I have large pieces I have been using that I got from work when the plant was moving.
Came from machinery delivered and made in the60’s from Germany as skid and protection plates . After the machines so large they were floated on air in place the plates were removed and sat in a cold basement in winter and hot and humid in summer since 1962. I got them in 2003.
No checks cracks or warping and straight as could be. Apparently on smaller items like tonearms n such  the fibre structure is compromised.
This is copied from morningside....

"With standard products, like Panzerholz, much thicker laminations mean there is less stability when using the product on a very small-scale. When you release the confining tension of various layers, above and below, natural wood fibers will start to relax somewhat. *This is not a problem with large objects, like plinths, or bullet proof doors, * "
........................................
I’ve used it in numerous plinth builds , seen it used for engineered self supporting stairs in high end loft conversions etc.
Structurally its a very sound material. Ive not experienced the stability or cracking and warping at all that you’ve seen.
The pieces I had and have were 5 ft by 1.5 ft by 35mm thick . So much resin , not sure it really could be called birch wood anymore. Its a real blade and bit killer when cut to low or too high an rpm.

Apparently Pica wood is much better for smaller objects as its thinner cross lamination is specifically in a way to maintain its strength over a much smaller dimension. I’ve not used it so I can’t say from experience . Panzerholtz was my choice because I have never felt Aluminum was a good choice other than its ease of machining and once cheap price and after reading the specific tests done I pushed forward with what I had. I’ve seen other and heard other’s choices too. Its a matter of your design and materials at hand and what you like n want personally.. Lots of good results. I’m curious about the ebonized bamboo ply you mentioned as it sounds like another viable option to look into.
Choice is a good thing.

Although looks are very subjective, few could argue the skill, time, effort and cost of machinery and materials some of these plinth’s take to design and
build as well as business costs. Let alone the results. a "300 dollar plinth"... thats basically a board with a hole in it. Cheers

https://www.lessloss.com/page.html?id=80