Thanks for your comment, Charles. Ok, so there doesn't seem to be a risk using aftermarket fuses; I'm here to learn.
I've only heard and read positive results when using audiophile fuses, that's why I'm going to start with a SR RED fuse in my ARC CD player.
Since these are slow-blow fuses, I guess there's little to no chance of any damage to a component under stress, and the amplifier is the one component to experience high-current surges, such as powering up.
With that said, on a SS amp, is there an benefit in sonics by swapping the AC line fuse with an audiophile fuse? Or do all rail fuses need to be changed to hear the benefit?
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I'd like try the SR RED fuse, but have a question. I've never used after-market audiophile fuses before; how do you know if they are made with the same tolerances as a stock or a Buss fuse for a given amp value?
For example, previous posts of the SR fuses blowing in some amps; a 5 amp slo-blo would not work, but the Buss fuse was fine.
But an amp's a high-current draw component. Have you proponents of these fuses found them to be reliable in CD players and preamps? I'd like to start with a SR RED in my ARC CDP. I'm hestitant to use one in my preamp since it is under warranty, wouldn't using these fuses leading to a circuit failure void the warranty?
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Thanks Al, Yeah, I personally wouldn't modify a component under warranty. I for one have never seen any such detailed specifications for
aftermarket audiophile-oriented fuses. So I guess it comes down to
relying on a combination of reported experiences and faith. That's why I appreciate threads like this one. I think it's worth trying in my CDP, long out of warranty, and with such agreement on improved sonics. But, it makes me wonder if I really want to replace all the rail fuses in my amp without knowing the tolerance of an expensive fuse. |
And I meant to thank you, Charles. You're right that if there were problems with these fuses we would have heard about it. Audiophiles are a vocal lot. |
@oregonpapa and knghifi,
it's true, never have read any incidents of negative consequences.
Thanks, David. The power fuse is an easy tweak.
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Open question: what differences are you noticing when changing from the SR Red to the SR Black?
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It seems to me that there is always a risk when using an audiophile fast blow fuse in an amplifier, since the "nominal melting point" is unknown (compared to major fuse manufacturers who publish their specs).
With amps that use a slow blow fuse, the very nature of said fuse allows for a brief period of over-current. It seems like less risk to use an audiophile fuse with unknown specs. Provided that the fuse being used has the correct rating specified by the manufacturer.
@audiolabyrinth, IYE, were the SR fuses that blew prematurely fast blow fuses or were there reports of all SR fuses blowing?
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@audiolabyrinth
Sounds good, thanks for the advice. |
I was following the thread in the early days and installed a SR Red fuse in my ARC CDP; I wanted to start at the source. It was such a tremendous improvement in every way and since the spinner is naturally detailed, I stayed with the Red.
Next I auditioned the Red and Black UEF PC's on all components and found that my Audience PC's were more musical with deeper imaging. IOW, I didn't need both the fuse and PC upgrade.
Now I have the SR Black fuse in my modified Sunfire 300 amp and waiting for it to burn-in. My question is to others who have the SR Black in a high power/high current SS amp. Did you find that during the burn-in period, the sonics were similar to breaking in a new cable?
I find the sound veiled, instruments lack separation (Classical music), and 2 dimensional.
I know the fuses are allegedly directional, and for now I'll assume mine is installed correctly due to the fact that the imaging of string instruments are in the proper place and the soundstage is wide and high.
So, I guess I'm asking for reassurance that others have heard these sonic characteristics. As mentioned before, it sounds like I'm breaking in some new cables.
Many thanks.
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Interesting how much a SR Black can influence the sound. I was asking myself, "it's only a fuse, why does my system sound so bad."
The Red sounded great within the first listening session.
Many thanks.
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Sunfire OEM AC Line Fuse is 10 amp / 32 V fast blow. I replaced with SR 10 amp, 250 V fast blow.
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David, Oregonpapa, et al,
I'm back with an update now that my SR Black fuse is fully burned-in. I'm using the Black fuse in a high power SS amp and a Red fuse in an ARC CDP.
First the good; some of you have used the term transformational to describe the effect on sonics and I agree. The soundstage has expanded in width and height, imaging is deep and precise, and a very noticeable lowering of the noise floor.
But and this is a BIG but...my system has gone from smooth, natural sounding digital to hyper-detailed. Let me emphasize that there is no harshness or glare, in fact CD's sound smooth, but music no longer provides an emotional engagement. This is the same effect I experienced when I auditioned the SR Black UEF PC; too much detail from individual instruments in orchestral music. The music does not sound cohesive.
(I've even checked speaker phase and polarity).
My CDP is naturally detailed (ARC CD3 mk II) and my speakers are Gallos with their very resolving tweeter.
So what to do...would a SR Red fuse be a better fit for my system?
BTW, when using the SR Black, music was sounding very two dimensional. After reversing the fuse in the holder, the reward was a glorious soundstage of music.
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Yes, Al, it's the Sunfire 300. On the back the Mains fuse says...
Line AC 12VAC, 50/60 Hz. The manual says 10 amp fast blow fuse.
It's quite possible the previous owner or a repair shop installed a 32 volt fuse.
I no longer use the Current Output since I bought Gallo floorstanders which only have one pair of inputs. (The Current fuse is a 5 amp Slow-blo MDL/Q). You have a great memory, as I did previously use a double-run to the speaker's upper and lower drivers.
I now use the Voltage Out since this is the standard output. As you know, the Current Output is for electrostats and tweeters. Due to the higher output resistance, there is less "body" or "slam" to the sound when used as a main output.
My impression is that the Gallo tweeters may be too revealing when using this fuse. It's the same result as when I tried the SR Black PC.
(I have even checked for correct speaker phase and polarity).
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"further down and a bit to the right, just under where the power cord
emerges from the panel, the photos I’ve looked at say something like
"for continued fire protection use original fuse type and rating only of
MDA-10." Al, I appreciate your research into the correct type of fuse. I didn't see the instruction on the back of the amp since I have a conduit on that shelf to separate cables. My first move will be to pick up some Bussman MDA-10 fuses and return the amp to baseline. Thanks again for the info. BTW, all contacts on my amp were cleaned not very long ago, and I will clean the fuse holder. |
It sounds like the SR Black line of products are improving detail to
a point that is not ideal for your system. That is my emotional response
to my son's new 4K TV compared to my Panasonic Plasma TV. Too much
detail that for me is distracting. He loves the added detail. David, I feel the same way regarding video. As stated earlier, I got the same highly-detailed sonics when using the SR Black power cord. But the lush, sumptuous sound of the SR is addicting. Regarding the Isoclean fuse, there's a very good review written by Albert Porter, although he's probably moved on to some other tweak by now. |
Thank you once again, Al.
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