Synergistic Red Fuse ...


I installed a SR RED Quantum fuse in my ARC REF-3 preamp a few days ago, replacing an older high end fuse. Uhh ... for a hundred bucks, this little baby is well worth the cost. There was an immediate improvement upon installation, but now that its broken in (yes, no kidding), its quite remarkable. A tightening of the focus, a more solid image, and most important of all for my tastes, a deeper appreciation for the organic sound of the instruments. Damn! ... cellos sound great! Much improved attack on pianos. More humanistic on vocals. Bowed bass goes down forever. Next move? .... I'm doing the entire system with these fuses. One at a time though just to gauge the improvement in each piece of equipment. The REF-75se comes next. I'll report the results as the progression takes place. Stay tuned ...

Any comments from anyone else who has tried these fuses?
128x128oregonpapa

Showing 50 responses by knghifi

Most amp manufacturers don't believe in after market fuse, and in lesser extend -power cords. I have had several well known brands (ARC, Krell, CJ to name a few) and they all HAVE to say that it does not matter from a corporate point of view.
Actually Kal at ARC concedes after market fuses are superior quality but timing is different so MIGHT not fully protect the component when it blows.

From my experience only ARC doesn't recommend after market fuses.
Like everything in audio, it's a matter of personal preference.  SR RED is more neutral compare to AH.  Not better or worse but different.

I use SR RED in all my components except for ARC.  Kal doesn't recommend using after market fuses but I finally gave in.   Since SR RED doesn't offer a large slo-blo 7A for my REF250, I bought IsoClean from theCableCo for $49.95 each.   This is my 1st experience with Isoclean but a local friend use a loom in his $500k system.

All I can say is WOW!   It added a beautiful tone and color to the sound and surprisingly dead neutral since it's gold plated.  It's directional and I installed them rear to front.  Highly Recommended!
Charles1dad,
In general if one doesn't have an open mind, they are missing out.  Aftermarket fuses are probably the best ROI in audio.   It's inexpensive and easy to roll.




I've said it before and I'll say it again.  If fuses can make such a big difference imagine for a moment of the industry suddenly got smart and manufactured all wire like that.  All wire, all cables, all internal wiring of components and speakers, the transformers, capacitors, everything?  Hel-looo!
Companies such as ARC and CAT have been limiting the number of fuses in their components for superior SQ.    You do need to solder instead of just replacing a fuse if something blows.   No free lunch!

I have an important question. Let's say you are using one of these aftermarket fuses and it blows and causes damage to your equipment. Are the manufacturers still going to honor your warranty?
I have an important question. Let's say you are using one of these STOCK fuses WITH THE WRONG RATING and it blows and causes damage to your equipment. Are the manufacturers still going to honor your warranty?

Am I clear?    Duh!!!



My ARC amp takes a 7 amp slow-blo and I see Synergistic only makes an 8 amp. I am going to talk to my technician and see if he thinks that is ok. He has repaired ARC gear for the past 30 years so I have complete confidence in him.

Taters,

Since SR RED doesn't offer a 7 amp Slo-Blo, I bought 2 Isoclean for my ARC REF 250.   It's only $49 each from theCableCo so right down your alley,  CHEAP!    Also got free shipping with no haggling automatic discount.  Again, right down your alley.  CHEAP! 

I use SR RED in all my components and rolling Isoclean in REF250 so far offers the most improvement over stock.  Simply AMAZING!  

This is my 1st experience with Isoclean but a local friend use full loom in his SOTA system.  Just his PCs cost 1.5x more than my whole system.    
Charles1dad,  I have the furutech gtx-rhodium outlet's, 2 of them,  and the wall frames,  however,  as good as they are, Chris at vh audio emailed me about the new flagship furutech gtx-rhodium NCF outlet's,  the new NCF only comes with the Rhodium version's for the outlet's,  go to vh-audio and check it out Charles, BTW,  I also knew about the sr-red's when they first come out,  but I didn't know enough about the sound to pull the trigger,  I trust your ears,  so likely it's a done deal on the fuses,  but I will tell you Charles, I've tested a lot of outlet's,  not the afterburner 8 you have,  and far and away the furutech gtx-rhodium is the best for my system,  lol, now I'm going to upgrade to the new nanotechnology crystal formula furutech gtx-rhodium!
I'm using 2 Furutech GTX-Rhodium outlets.  It's superior to Maestro outlets it replaced.   Price differences between outlets are RELATIVITY small so not a big factor in ultimate purchasing decision.



Hi knghifi,  furutech just introduced a new top outlet,  download the pdf file from Chris at vh-audio,  kinda cool,  take a peek and tell me your impressions,  the ncf gtx- rhodium, merry Christmas.

Audiolabyrinth, I only installed the Furutech GTX-Rhodium outlets last summer on my two 20 Amp dedicate lines so don't want to replace them so soon.   Thanks for heads up and will check them out next time feel the urge for a change.   Merry Christmas! 

I found fuse direction was very noticeable in my VAC SigmMKIIa pre.  In wrong direction, sounds out of phase with no weight, bass, rounded ...  Compared notes with several VAC owners, same results and ultimately we confirmed with Kevin Hayes.    Now I ask manufacturer for correct direction so no need to experiment.

I don't find replacing stock with any after market fuse is an improvement to be true.   I don't want a fuse to change the character of my component but enhance it.  Once I had a fuse that elevated the mid so much prefer stock.

I prefer a neutral and linear sound so SR RED is 1st choice and then HiFi Tuning Supreme.     Since RED doesn't offer a 7A slo-blo for my ARC REF250, I'm SHOCKED how well Isoclean is working out for only $49.    It's very neutral and linear.
Knghifi, 
Try the AH in stead of the Isoclean, you will thank me for that.


A friend did and prefer HiFi-Tuning Supreme.
Got this from another site:

Interesting observation relayed from Warren Gehl about fuses in ARC gear in this month's letter section of
Audio Beat
Since SR RED doesn't offer exact size for my REF250, I've been using Isoclean.  It well exceeded my expectations but the audiophile in me had to order RED to compare.   

Well after 6 hours, they sound very similar.   Probably RED is a bit more open and airy.
From my experience, replacing the builder grade with Maestro  outlets (audiophile grade) was the best ROI.   The improvements far exceeded changing fuses.   Last summer I replaced the  Maestro outlets with  Furutech's GTX-D R and improvements were equivalent to changing fuses, not as big.   I have 2 20 amp dedicated lines.

IMO, anyone with a decent system should replace their builder grade with any audiophile grade outlets. 


The CD  player, taking two fuses, was the biggest improvement so far. It is so good that I will NEVER, EVER get rid of this CD Player. Put it in my casket  and lower it down with me boys, lower it down with me.


Hey oregonpapa, do you think Harry Pearson would say in 2016 "if you really wanted to enjoy digital, stop listening to your records" after hearing your CD player with SR RED?  LOL!!!

I've decided to keep my recently purchased SR RED and just buy 5 BLACK later.    I need to enjoy my system and stop the madness for a while.
NO! .... NO! ... NO!  Tell me this isn't true!!!


Unfortunately it's life in the big city for companies to generate income.   I only need 5 so will get some later.

Manufacturer's Description:

The Synergistic Research BLACK is the most advanced fuse to date. With Synergistic Research's cutting edge UEF Coating and Graphine first developed for Synergistic Research's new Atmosphere Series AC power cords, Synergistic Research Black Fuses deliver performance far beyond their world class RED Fuses. Improvements over RED include a lower noise floor, improved dynamics and clarity, and soundstaging that must be heard to be believed. In fact the performance gain over RED is far greater than the difference between SR's RED fuses and their original Synergistic Research 20 Quantum fuses. Sold with a 30-day no-risk money back guarantee, you won’t believe how good your system can sound until you try BLACK but don't say we didn't warn you because once you go BLACK you’ll never go back to your old fuse!

Any volunteers to compare BLACK vs RED?   LOL!!!

I just contacted high-end electronics to see if they would give me credit for the two most recently purchased RED's for the BLACKS if I pay the difference in price. They have a 30 day refund policy. We'll see what they say.  Stay tuned ...


Good point!   I purchased my fuses from theCableCo so will ask about 30 days refund ...
I've been making massive changes to my system not just rolling fuses.  So madness is getting off the bus for a breather.   
Now with more hours on SR RED, it's definitely superior to Isoclean in the REF250.  It's more transparent, high resolution, smoother ... system never sounded better.

It's inexpensive so will order 5 SR BLACK next time ordering from theCableCo and might include some Furutech NCF outlets.    Early report is superior to GTX-D R ... but we all knew that, right?  LOL!!!
Knghifi, I don't blame you for taking the plunge.  Knowing how good the Red fuses are, why resist the very probable further improvement with the Black fuses? If my sound becomes any more realistic, the next time I play Carmen McRae I'm going to invite her to stick around for dinner when she's done singing LOL!
Charles,


Shipping pre to VAC for SE upgrade in March so will get fuses after it returns and breaks in.

Knghifi. Did you place 6.3a 250v fuses in the ref 250 as per Warren Gehl?


Yes.  According to user manual, each mono can draw up to 10 Amp so 7 Amp can draw above rating for x amount of time before blowing.   Amps is on a dedicated 20 amp line.   Not going to work if fast blo ...  I think best chance for 6.3 amp to blow if a short from output tube blowing.  No big deal ... just replace the fuse.
Gwalt,
What was the turn around time at Vac for SE upgrade?   Brent quoted me 2 weeks.   

BTW,  according to Kevin, correct direction installing the fuse in SigMKIIa is looking at the back of the unit putting the fuse into the holder, the arrow should point left-to right.

I tried AM initial fuse offering and found mid elevated in SigMKIIa.  I much prefer SR RED.

mid40sguy68 posts01-18-2016 8:38pmI ordered a BLACK from The Cable Company. Should have it in less than two weeks. This will go into a Modwright Oppo 9.0 power supply. I don't plan to replace the RED in my amp. Will post my thoughts on the BLACK whenever it gets here.
.
I get all my fuses from theCableCo...  The correct direction installing the fuse in PS 9.0 is rear to front according to Dan.

I always ask designers for correct installation direction.
audiolabyrinth3,729 posts01-18-2016 7:39pmKnghifi, I’ve got some very positive feedback from my friend sksos1, Steven, on the new NCF furutech connectors, he is very impressed, Steven said that the wpo’s have not started shipping from Japan yet, when they do knghifi, I’m buying them from Steven, his company is called, sound of silence, yes, the very same maker of vibraplane air isolation platform’s for audio.


I know Steve ...  Sound of Silence is ~35 minutes from my home.  
Two SR BLACK fuses are in the mail and will go into the CD player. They should be here tomorrow (Thursday), or Friday. Stay tuned ...
Frank, are you using audiophile grade outlets?   If not, that should be your next upgrade IMHO.


mid40sguy69 posts01-20-2016 8:20pmKevin said they would be fairly busy until March. If I sent my Sigma the first week of March it would be less than two weeks turn around.

That's why I'm shipping my SigMKIIa in March.    I run an all tube system in the winter to keep the house warm so can't live without my only pre in the coldest months.  :-)  

koestner201 posts01-26-2016 9:18amYes, Mitch is right! Why can't SR print the best direction on the fuse? Are they unable to keep them in line during manufacturing? Let's hear from all the users who have an opinion about the correct direction, and tell us what it is.

I think it's on SR site ... direction is how you read the label on the fuse.  
giannicasciaro6 posts01-31-2016 4:06amHi, i'm waiting for SR black fuses to put in wadia wt 3200 transport and lamm L2 ref preamp.In my dac wadia x 64.4 i have an isoclean fuse.
Do you think better SR black in the dac or in preamp ?Boh,!
Gianni

 
From my experience, it's component dependent.   My tube amp is the most sensitive, then pre ...
Mribob, 

I'm using SR RED in my H30 and it's a nice improvement over stock.  Improvement not as dramatic as in ARC but still an improvement.  I installed the fuse direction rear to front.   

I think you need to add one more SR BLACK to your order.  :-)





What size/type of fuse does it take, and is it power cord socket?


Mribob, It's a 15 Amp slow-blo. It's a miniature fuse holder that requires a screw drive to open and close. Mine was loose so the cover spins when taking it off or on. I replaced it with a high quality Bussmann panel fuse holder but accidently bought a larger size. I'm very meticulous so no idea how it happened ... When Hegel tech returned the amp, I thought he installed a different fuse holder so ask and it was mine.

Sometimes things have ways of working out ... turns of SR RED offers a large size 15A Slo-blo but not smaller size.


The $64K question - are no fuses better than Black fuses?


Yes, Reason ARC and CAT use resistors and NOT fuse to protect power tube failures. People always criticizing ARC and CAT but especially ARC so maybe now they understand.
According to Dan, the correct fuse direction in PS 9.0 and 9.9 is rear to front.
Charles1dad, 
I've been rolling after market fuses for YEARS, when HiFi-Tuning Gold was only game in town.   So I'm going to replace all 5 SR REDs with BLACKs at the same time.   Only amateurs replace one at a time.  LOL!
Charles1dad, eventually we replace every fuse so does it really matters where one starts? :-) Bottom line is, Just Do It!
I have a VAC SigMKIIa pre and SR RED is NOT thin in my system.  My system is very revealing ...

It's all system dependent and personal preferences.  Not everyone is endorsing one fuse ... at least not in this thread.

Here are 2 reviews that mirrors my experience

SR RED

Audio Horizon Fuse

I don't buy the idea one would be satisfied with any aftermarket fuse.  I tried an Audio Magic fuse and the mid was elevated so didn't stay long.  BTW, I might still have it so shoot me a PM and it's yours.  It's 4 amp slo-blo that fits a VAC pre. 

May I just ask--of all the SR Reds and Blacks being placed, how many of you are exceeding stock ratings by a little or a lot?
0 out of 5.

This is often needed
 because the SR offerings are high by .5 amp or because the boutique fuses may blow easier at the stock rating
. Not from my experience

    Another reason is a higher rating sounds better, IME.  I have pushed the ratings in my AC input fuses by an amp or two. The bigger filament adds more to the overall presentation, I believe. 

That's not my understanding how a fuse works.   Bigger fuse doesn't sound better but will take a higher current before it blows.  




jafreeman, a slo-blo fuse is designed to blow if drawing too much current for x amount of time.  If you use a larger fuse, your component will blow before the fuse.

I've been thinking, my Hegel H30 uses a 15 amp slo-blo so theoretically if on a 15 amp outlet, the breaker will trip and don't need a fuse ... just hard wired it.    But since it's on a 20 amp line, MAYBE not a good idea.   I'm just speculating and not bypassing the fuse.  


I ordered 5 SR BLACKs from theCableCo and should arrive next week. Going to replace all 5 at once so hope it goes well :-)

lowrider51, aftermarket fuses have been around for a long time.  In this 24/7 news cycle, I've only read positive results and not one negative experience.    Ultimately it's your component and your decision.  GL!

Pair of Blacks are on the way for my PerfectWave II DAC/pre.   You guys are killing me.  I hate you.    :-)

Having never upgraded a fuse from stock, guess for me on this:  ought a black sound better than stock, right out of the box?  Also, ought a black in the "wrong" direction sound better than stock?

Time shall tell!


Rear to front is the correct fuse installation direction.
My REF250 specification is a 7A Slo-Blo but since SR RED doesn't offer that size, so been using a 6.3A Slo-Blo.    Now waiting for my 5 SR BLACK from theCableCo.    Hmm!
Maybe lesson learned is Slo-Blo has larger tolerance so safer to roll than a Fast-Blo unless one is willing to roll the dice.

Another thought is audiophile fuses is anything not from the manufacturer.   A Bussmann is definitely a safer bet than one from Ace Hardware with unknown origin.  In Audiophile world, both are non audiophile fuses.
I've found that the right way actually sounds SMALLER in scale, but with a proper image size and relationship.  When the fuse is wrong. The soundstage sounds oval with a huge hump in the center, making the center image mushroomed out, creating just a huge center image with a tiny band on each side.

Bingo!  Exactly what I hear in wrong direction ... sounds out of phase.

Not to be tedious, but a lot of equipment has cartridge fuse holders that push in on the back of the unit, then turn to lock.  Has anyone flipped an SR Black in such a cartridge, and if so, did you think it sounded better with the writing on the fuse reading towards the back of the unit, or towards the front of the unit?  That is, if I'm pushing the fuse in with my thumb, is SR reading towards my thumb, or the other way? Thanks for your patience.

In all my components with rear fuse holders, rear to front direction.
My ARC Ref250 uses a 7A Slo-Blo and been using SR RED 6.3A without any issues.  According to owners manual, each mono can draw up to 10A instantaneously so I don't recommend using a fast flow. 

I have a full loom of SR BLACKs waiting in the bullpen.   After pre is broken in when returns from VAC on SE upgrade, will replace all SR REDs in one shot.  It should be interesting.

From my experience, ARC benefits most from fuse rolling so I encourage ARC owners to experiment. 
On Direct Stream Dac, rear to front.  I believe it uses 2 1A slo-blo.  It's on PS Audio forum.  
Ozzy, you're correct, only one is active.   From PS Audio Forum:

Be aware that although there are two fuse holders in the Direct Stream, only one fuse is active.

The second fuse was used for the analog supply in the PWD. The DS does not have this extra supply.

I had a PWDMKII and it uses 2 fuses.
brownsfan1,122 posts03-19-2016 5:30amI’ve got about 50 hours on the two SR blacks I installed in my ModWright Sony HAPZ1 now. Last night, I removed them and put the stock fuse back in. The effect was exactly the same as A/B’ing stock vs SR black in my Coincident CSL. The sound went two dimensional with loss of dynamics and a step backwards in complexity of harmonics. I reinstalled the fuses one at a time, and found that the fuse serving the hard drive was far more important than the fuse labeled "mains." Next up I am either going to buy one more 3.15 A slo, and fuse my Coincident Franks with the SR Blacks leaving the stock fuse in the mains slot, or else buy a fuse for my MW PS 9.0 power supply.
Brownsfan, what direction did you install the two SR black fuses in your MW Sony HAPZ1?  Facing the unit from the front, Is the fuse in the front or rear serves the hard drive?   My board doesn't indicate "mains" ... both have same label.
brownsfan, I changed my mind and ordered a SR Black 1.6A.  Don't want to push my luck so will be using both SR Blacks 3.15A in the HAPZ1.
brownsfan, I check the stock fuse and it's 1.6A.  I just took Dan's word and didn't bother checking before use.  

I've been using 3.15A since new without problems so not going to purchase another fuse.    PS 9.0 is relative inexpensive so taking my chances. :-)

brownsfan,
Thanks for the info. I ordered another SR BLACK 3.15A fuse today.

I see the labels now. I guess the coffee didn't kick in this morning. :-) I'm going to use SR BLACK in HDD live and move the SR RED from PS 9.0 to Mains Live. I replaced my full loom of SR REDs with SR BLACks. Since you didn't hear much improvement in Mains Live, no need wasting money on another SR BLACK.

I asked Dan Wright many questions too. He only mentioned the fuse in PS 9.0 so I thought none in HAPZ1. I'm glad we have forums to share info.

BTW, since PS 9.0 also uses a 3.15A, you can try SR BLACk in HDD live, stock in Mains Live and SR BLACk in PS 9.0. The correct fuse direction in PS 9.0 is rear to front.

I think with the latest advances in fuse manufacture, that the old adage that "no fuse sounds best" may now be incorrect. But only with patience and a thorough investigation will we some day know.

Say what?  Are you serious?   The more in the chain the more coloration even with SR Black fuses and I'm using a FULL LOOM of them.   This is the reason companies such as CAT and ARC limits the number of fuses in their components.  
Thanks to brownsfan, now I'm using all SR Black fuses.   This time I ordered one from vhaudio and the other from highend-electronics.  Both offer free shipping and overall excellent service.   We can't have enough reliable vendors.
I've been buying from The Cable Company lately.   They also offer free shipping plus additional discounts.   All 3 vendors are recommended!