Sumiko tonearm rewire


Hi,
About to dwell into rewiring my Sumiko tonearm. Just a few points before I start, if somebody went through this ordeal before.
The wire thickness - 34 AWG will be best? I am looking for 'warm' sound so I guess I should look at copper.
The wire insulation - what is better - silk or enamel?
Any particular solder brand I should be using?

I am not sure if it possible to take off the wand completely in other words to disassemble it, I can see that it is possible to get the wire through without taking it off, but on the other hand if I can take it off I would rather take it off, otherwise I may risk damaging the wire insulation.
Thank you
avs9

Showing 6 responses by avs9

Hi John,
Thank you for looking at this.
Yes, I think I know what you mean, I fixed some isolation on mine close to the pivot place, that was a challenge, but like you said - go slow and take a deep breath :)

Sorry - what is OE wire?
And one more, in case I decide to do it myself - when you solder - do you think you can solder with gold? I never did it before, just wondering? Otherwise the place where you solder will break the copper flow with whatever it is in the solder, is that right?

Thank you
Anatoliy
Well,
Decided to take the re-wire route and here is the result.
Plunged into BritAudio rewire service, asked before shipping if can be done, the answer was positive.
Now got the arm back not wired with the refund check minus shipping, the note says "Unable to install new wiring in tonearm due to small opening for wire to pass through".
Anybody had more luck somewhere else?
Looks like I have no better option now than take another chance.
Thank you
Thanks a lot, Cousinbillyl,this is really helpful.
By the way, the old Sumiko wires (now gone as I mentioned) were silk coated, which confirms what you just said.
I am actually excited about getting into this, arm rewire I mean, your short intro will be very helpful. I liked the 'do not put in the arm, go external first' idea!
By the way - where did you get the 44 awg wire from, any particular dealer/brand you have in mind? My guess will be doesn't matter but any particular pointer will help.
Best Regards
Anatoliy
Cousinbillyl,
Sorry, forgot to ask you - the 44 awg wire you mentioned - that was not litz wire, was a single thread, correct?
Thank you
Wow! Never imagined the coating must be removed from litz wires. Please forgive my ignorance - why? OI thought the idea of litz strands was to minimize the 'skin' effect, but if coating taken off you got one thicker conductor? Or the flow will still follow each strand? My high school was a way back, I can't say how magnetic fields will behave when coating is taken off...
Now, with 46/10 litz you mentioned before - do we clean all 10 strands?.
I found a few places, I am sure I will find more but a few that just happened to make if first, would appreciate if you could share an opinion.
This one is 0.061 mm, enamel and silk on copper, not litz:
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/sc_wires.html
And here is litz:
http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/litzwire.html
- 81 (!) strands of 0.025 mm, silk covered. Do you think (as I am true Audiophile yet:) it will make sense to take 4 strands out of the 81 to make a single wire, and do it 3 times to get another 3? Have not seen any silk coated litz anywhere else yet...
Best Regards
Hi, wonder if I will need the flux, never solded wires these thin, or the using the Mundorf I wouldn't need that? They say the wire does contain the flux but I wonder if I's better to apply some of that? I am curious to know if there are any drawback in USING flux rather than not...
Thank you