Subwoofers.... one 10" or two 8"?


I'm looking to fill out the bottom of my simple 2 channel system  (Musical Fidelity X-Ray CDP through Peachtree Audio Grand Integrated amp to a pair of Mirage OMD-15 full range speakers).  I occasionally will play the TV audio through the system for movies, but not interested in an HT setup. Music is the prime focus. The room is "medium" size.  I know that will not give the deep bass feel of a 12", but the difference should not be too great, and a 12" may be overkill for that room.  I've also considered getting two 8" subs to keep the sound balanced between the left and right channels. I think the  8" may be enough bottom for my room and tastes. I'm on a budget so getting a pair of anything bigger than 8" may not be in the cards.

Any opinions or suggestions as to whether I'd be better off with one 10" or two 8" subs?

















larstusor

Showing 4 responses by leotis

If you can phase the sub perfectly to the mains you can get a lot more impact from even a small sub. This requires a sub with a continuous phase adjustment. (Not just 0 degrees or 180 degrees.) If your prepro can’t set a delay for the mains the best you can do is time align the sub 1 cycle late which is totally acceptable. Check: http://www.soundoctor.com/whitepapers/subs.htm
Play a pure tone at the crossover frequency with cable polarity reversed on main, dial phase on sub till you hear the null at listening position. Now perfectly out of phase. Switch to correct polarity on cable to main and now is perfectly in phase. Can’t overemphasize the importance of time alignment to SQ. Consider that a crossover or low pass filter at say 12 db per octave gives very large area of overlap. (40 Hz to 80 Hz is 1 octave. 60 Hz to 120 Hz is 1 octave) If the timing is out of alignment there is distortion of all the sound waves over a wide frequency range (partial cancellations and partial additions within each sound wave). Sounds like hell. Anyway, I have several systems going and several really good subs. Needed a sub for a 2 channel setup so I got a single 8" JL Audio Dominion D108, Just to add a little bottom to my "full range" Revel Performa F206s. Totally did the job in a 17’ x25’ room. Couldn’t believe it. Didn’t want to believe it (cause I wanted to justify a bigger sub purchase) Was not great until I phased it in however. Go ahead and scoff ye unbelievers! Went ahead an got a Revel Performa B110 sub anyway because it was prettier and the price was ridiculous. But can’t really say the resulting SQ is remarkably better, even though It does go a little lower. Set up properly the performance of a pair of JL Audio Dominions would beat any 10 sub that was set up improperly IMHO. :)
But them ain’t your grandpa’s 8" subwoofers.
Due to "group delay" sound impulse leaves the sub usually 8-10 msec later than it leaves the main, even though the electrical impulse hits the sub and the main at the same time. So must be aligned by ear. Using just distance measurement doesn't work. Used to think there was something wrong with my autocalibration when it consistently made sub setting farther away than the actual measurement. Check:
http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/subwoofer-basics/?page=3
Hi Eric,
Beg to differ. Easiest and most accurate is the method I described very briefly. All you need is: play a test tone at the crossover frequency with reversed cable polarity at the speaker, listen for the null as you adjust the phase, correct cable polarity and done.. Don’t want to write a chapter on it so I posted a couple links. "Soundoctor" Barry Ober, tech support at JL Audio sells a disc for $20 with test tones and a variety of other tools for optimizing subwoofers, along with instructions for the why and how of it.

http://www.soundoctor.com/testcd/index.htm

Cheers.
If you sum the signals from the sub and main you get +3 dB.(less after room interactions) If you cancel the signals with reverse polarity you get -40 dB. Much easier to hear! Method works best when the sub is close to the speakers. If sub farther away then differential distance from sub and main to different points in the room varies more, and result becomes more hit or miss. Then trial and error may be the best you can do. Maybe you are referring to Harley in Absolute Sound. http://www.theabsolutesound.com/articles/subwoofer-basics/?page=3