Subwoofer for music, how low?

The key to your question was music. Everyone chimed in about "most" music hitting 20hz. Some does. Rel is a coupled sub. In other words your floor is the bottom of the slot on that type of sub. The best way to make that type of sub work is, mass load the box and literally glue it to the floor. You will feel THAT type of sub.

The question is, do you want to feel the sub through your bottom (the whole house) or hear and feel the sub in your seated position? NOT through your BUTT or FEET or the plaster falling off the ceiling or the plates rattling in the kitchen, BUT only at your listening position?

If the sub requires coupling to work, you might want to think if that is the type of "BASS" you want. Some love it. The drunker I get, the more I like it, no doubt about it. The only issue is, I quit drinking 40 years ago..:-)

Regards

DEBRA isn’t very expensive. James R. No idea on the shipping. I thought some of the parts were from Parts Express, like the amps. They have pretty good shipping rates too. Flat packs, there are a few sources, some better than others. PE is one.

How much material does it take to make 4 1cf boxes? Under a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4" Hardwood, Plywood, HDF or MDF. Chip board will work fine for subs.. They don’t have to be pretty.

You can add a Mohawk to your subs.. :-)

Let me hunt up some parts I would and ARE using. 

Regards

4 10" 44-10s. This is my personal favorite sub of all time. This will hit what EVER  you want, no problem.

I use Behringer NU12000s and a DCX2696. The DCX has 6 outlets for 6 different setting or you can use a 4 module model like a NU4-6000. So we are clear in 2cf boxes and with a 12" passive radiator they will hit below 20hz direct coupled. Excellent cone control. Super bang for the buck.. 4 will pressure a room VERY easy. Thats 4 active 10" and 4 passive 12". ALL are considered medium to high high excursion drivers, for LOW distortion. I've used them for a long time. 5 years ago they would come up on sale for 99.00. NOW 199.00. Worth every penny. I've never had a failure with that driver..

I use it in my car too.. Impressive, IB in the car though, NO port ot passive.. 

One of the best speakers for columns I've ever used too. 16hz 1000 watts columns under 5% distortion. That's VERY low..

Remember DECOUPLE and build to decouple, Air, springs, pods, BUT decouple.. NO spikes for music, EVER. Spikes are for SNOW.. LOL If you do put any driver pointing down, you have to enclose the slot. You have to add a butt plate. Otherwise it has to be on the side or top (not the best but not bad with a single driver).

Regards

This is a CSS type, the mass is on the outside, BUT the passive is not real sensitive, this type you would add or remove large amount of putty at a time to notice a Q difference.. It will work just fine though. This one is good to 7hz is that low enough? LOL

Regards

This is A passive. I use one that the mass is on the outside. You don't have to remove the driver to add mass. The washers are on the outside and act as a phase plug also. When I get close the mass needed for the tuning I want, I add Mortite (a  soft nonhardning putty) to finly adjust the (Q)uality.  I remove as little as the size of peppercorn at a time. Just as the BOOM goes away you have tuned your sub to your speakers, your room, your cable (type and length) and your amps. THAT is an important little tuning trick isn't it..

Try to find that with ANY sub manufacture anywhere today. The last company to offer that type of mechanical tuning for a sub went out of business in 2012. VMPS. It was a shame. Brian Cheney new BASS like no other.  That is who I learned from. He had subs just like REL at first... THEN he changed in the 90s and decoupled, HE learned. Most of the other manufactures didn't. Now you know why they NEED DSP for your room.

They (most manufactures) don't know HOW to build a friggin' sub without DSP now It's cheaper and easier for everyone. It's NOT the best way it is A way. Look at most REL products, they don't even have that.. Good Boom Boom though. IF you like boom boom.. Nice paint too..:-)

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I didn't mention servo bass but it is best for everything. Expensive BUT it is an end all, once and for all bass system.

I used every type of bass system there is, including folded horns for a few years..

The electrical, the room, the bass. One, Two, Three. Foundation UP, NOT the other way around..

You want to know more keep asking questions. I'll dig up some pics or take some, better yet..

It's nice to find someone who likes to learn the right way. NOT a way.. I got a few up my sleeve. 

MC is giving good advise, smoothing the bass, more is better. NOW tune every sub to your room with mechanical (Q)uality..

Any issues after that are a very simple PEQ adjustment.. 56hz, 71hz, 81-2hz (close) 8, 9, and 10 foot ceiling modes'

Happy New Year