Speaker Spikes - Working Principle


Vibration damping obvious makes sense (in speakers just as well as in cars). 

That involves 'killing' (converting into heat, through typically internal friction) kinetic energy. So any sort of elastic material (rubber has lots of internal friction) makes sense. 

And then there are spikes. Using a pointy hard object and pair it with a softer, elastic material (to deform, and kill kinetic energy) can work; think metal sharp spike into carpet or wood floor. 

But what is the idea behind pairing fairly unelastic metal (brass for example) with similarly unelastic (brass, stone, etc) material (example photo provided)? Only thing I can come up with: LOOKS good and makes owner feel good  thinking its an improvement (works only for Audiophiles though),

Even more curious: are they ENGINEERED "spikes" (vibration dampers or shock absorbers) for speakers that are TUNED for the frequency (and mass)  that needs to be dampened? Can piston style fluid dampers be designed for the high frequencies (100, 1000, 10000 Hz) using geometry, nozzles size and viscosity of the fluid?

 

kraftwerkturbo

Showing 5 responses by mahgister

I had much success with my muti varied materials sandwich...

But much more with at the same time a tuned damped double springs set differently compressed by a damping weight above and under the speakers box...

It is not practical in a living room...

but we learn a lot by experimenting ... Spike cannot replace this complex resonance control devices....

An image sometimes communicate more than words :

 

 

 

Exactly right...

This is why i  was using with springs under and above my damped speakers by a load a sandwich of materials : plate of shungite or quartz feet , oak plate, sorbothane plate,bamboo plate, cork plate granite plate all together...

The alternating coupling and decoupling work the best to isolate the speakers , and the springs work best to decrease the speakers resonance ...

The granite plates (high mass) in conjuction with the carpet/rubber (bottom of carpet) and foam (under carpet) under the puck act as another ’swinger’ (mass, spring, damper) to further modify the fequency and amplitude transmitted into the floor.

I had fine tuned the compressive and damping load of concrete on top of my speakers acting on the  two set of springs near 100 grams of fine tuning by ears with near 80 pounds of concrete ...( this was with my big speakers, with my actual very small speakers nothing had changed bu t i dont need springs now )

In my experience a sandwich of various materials is necessary under them and not only springs ...My speakers were relatively isolated by coupling/ decoupling using various materials not only damped....The two set of springs were powerful because compressed with different weight force they were able to decrease internal resonace in a way one set will not do ....

 

@mahgister I can see from your description about mounting a Speaker Cabinet you take your investigations into tidying up a sonic quite seriously.

I have a substantial supply of Cork Pads, they regularly find a place as a additional tier in an assembly. My interest in Granite has a 30ish year history of using it in multiple configurations in a support structure.

On my Cabinet Speakers my the Top Weight is a Large Lead Metal Block rested onto four 1/6" Cork Pads. The Lead Blocks then has approx’ 20lb of Steel Dumb Bell Weights sat upon it. Moving this weight around to different resting positions on the Top of the Speaker does have an impact where sonic or box coloration are able to be impacted for the better/worse.

I am a ESL Speaker user as well, so the Cabinet / Driver issues are easily by passed if wanted.

 

I used concrete block as damping Masson top...Fined tuned mass ...With 2 set of springs, one set under speakers+load and one set above the speakers compressed only with the load ...

Under the speakers in my sandwiches of materials (cork-Oak-Bamboo-granite-shungite) i add in between one plate of sorbothane patches duro 70 ...One of the best damping materials...Then i use decreasing vibrations materials and also decreasing resonance devices and method  and coupling/decoupling principle...

I used it also inside my 2 headphones +FoQ tape as damping materials ...

https://www.sorbothane.com/technical-data/articles/a-good-damping-material-audio-and-electronics

@mahgister Aside from mass (and materials will like different resonance frequencies), what did you use to DAMPEN?

You are right ...

This is why to a damping tuned heavy load on top of the speakers and to a complex sandwich of materials under the speakers ( oak plate-sorbothane-granite plate-shungite plate-bamboo plate-cork plate)  i add a set of 4 springs UNDER  the damping load +the speaker weight , and to this i add a new set of springs ABOVE the speakers and under the damping load...

The two sets of springs then  differently tuned by different compressive force  by the difference of mass decreased resonance and improved a lot  compared to  a singular springs set under the speakers withoyut any coupling/$decoupling sandwich, without damping load and without another sets of springs compressed above the speakers by the load only .....

It is not doable in living room with children... Esthetic and stability problem ...

Only a a dedicated room ...

But at peanuts costs it was efficient for S.Q. a lot ...People underestimate resonance/vibrations problem , even the speakers designers...What they can do at low coast that will not appear unesthetical ?

 

 

Another misconception: "depends on the spring rate and the mass": that is called a SWINGER for good reason. at resonance frequency, amplitude will be infinite. Try driving your car with spring only. 

That is were the DAMPER comes in. Now you have a system of spring, damper and mass, and can be tuned to KILL vibrations. 

This has NOTHING to do with the vibrations the emitted sound is producing ('will vibrate even if suspend the speaker in the air'). It has to do with the vibration the mass off the speaker is COUPLING to the floor (not those of the soundwave).