Speaker Spike Help

Thank you very much, @millercarbon  I will look them up and follow up with you, should I have questions.

I should have made note of this: My speakers are bottom ported and by design, there is a gap (from the floor) front to rear AND a rising angle / tilt rear to front.

I’d like (prefer) to maintain the designer’s height and angle for the speaker. Therefore, spike height, spike diameter, and contact point are all important considerations.

Also, maximum thread size is 1/4-20. Less is better. Metric equivalents will work.

Using @millercarbon 's BDR cone recommendation as an example...

They measure 1 inch high. My max is 7/8th of an inch.

They measure 1.62 inches wide. My max is 1 inch.

@gdnrbob  My apologies. Hopefully this post will clarify. If it doesn't, let me know.

The front of the speakers have M6 inserts and come with stock spikes and floor protectors.  The rear of the speaker has two 'rubber bumpers' with metal cores, attached via a phillips screw. 

To attach a 'standard' spike with threads (For The REAR), I will need to drill two insert holes and install the threaded inserts. 

Due to the finish of the cabinet, I'll need to use a special bit as well as be very careful so I don't damage the finish. Further, there isn't much room for error in terms of the surface and width and material available for drilling / to drill through. Obviously, I will need to also be careful with the 'hole' angle and the need to match both.

I went with a flat / smooth top for the rear 'spike' to avoid the above. Not ideal, but if it gets me most of the way there... :)

Luckily, the front is setup for easy swapping of spikes, etc.

@imhififan  Your suggestion is an option I have not considered. It is an excellent solution. Thank you!!! 

@gdnrbob  Good point. Speakers weigh 88 pounds (40kg) each.