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Speaker shootout question -- do you position the same or differently, depending?

If you're comparing two speakers at home, do you position each the same or do you position each as (roughly) optimal for that speaker in your room?

I'm comparing a tower and a bookshelf now, and their design is different. It would seem that the best way to compare would be to figure out what is optimal for each and then compare them in (likely) different positions. 

What kind of process do you use for comparing two differently designed speakers?

hilde45

Showing 5 responses by djones51

djones51
4,947 posts
 

IMO you're going about it in a sensible manner, listening and measuring. 

djones51
4,947 posts
 

What speaker is that measurement of? If I had something measured like that I wouldn’t bother with it but to each their own. Is it a high efficiency for low watt amp speaker?

djones51
4,947 posts
 

The latest red plot Betweeen 1500hz and 10,000hz is a 10db drop then a 10db rise to 20,000hz. I prefer a smooth fall of 5db from 1000hz to 20,000hz. I would get rid of the rise from 10k to 20k.

The blue first plot I would slope it from 4k to 20k by a few db or flatten it. I also don’t like that much bass boost.

Of course this is my preference not yours but it look pretty hot in the upper frequencies.

Looking at their website those speakers have a pretty flat response what to you get at about 3 feet from each speaker? 

djones51
4,947 posts
 

Here is a response both speakers averaged from a bookshelf KEF R3 at LP in an untreated room with no filters applied. There is only normal living room furiture and a rug. This is a good response from a properly designed speaker IMO which only needs a correction at about 35hz or use a sub crossed around 100hz.

 

 

Edit: these are not my speakers just an example of what can be done in usual rooms where treatments can only be minimal or none. 

djones51
4,947 posts
 

Nice graph! Any DSP?

No, that's without filters. With Dirac it helped the bass smooth out.  Can't remember if  it was Floyd Toole who said below 500hz it's the room in control above it's the speaker. I try to do very little above 500hz maybe a house curve if the top end goes up. Right now with my Dutch and Dutch 8c I'm using no filters and no curve, nice smooth plot from 24hz to 20khz one small room mode at 60hz. I have two absorption panels 2'x4' in a 20' x 14' living room. I'm hoping to do some measurements this weekend again see if I want to change anything.  IMO some people overdo treatments and overthink their gear. I understand how tweaking and a lot of different components could be fun to play around with but for me simplicity is the goal.

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