speaker excursion..."mo power"..and bass..Sean


I'd be interested in everyone's thoughts, but hopefully Sean will chime in...

Some reading I've been doing & the "is 22 watts enough" discussion has raised a question in my mind. I'll use the Linkwitz Orions as the example, but the real questions will (should?) apply to powering most any driver.

I've been reading Linkwitz's site on the Orions, some of the theory, what it takes to build them, suggested power..etc...and I remember some post that I read in the A-gon or AA archives stating that the 60 watts Siegfred suggests isn't enough to give significant bass. I read on the SL site that he likes the 60 watts as the amp will clip just before the speaker can reach full excursion & thereby the driver will not sustain damage. He continues to state that the higher power amp he suggests (a larger ATI) will result in the driver reaching full excursion prior to the amp bottoming out & thus driver damage may result.

>Proponents of "lower is plenty" might be, at least conceptually, in line with the needed power to reach a driver's maximum excursion (almost by defintion) being all the power necessary.

>Then comes the "more power, preferrably gobs more clean power" crowd that says more power is the best in most applications.

So my question(s):

>Is the difference between these two camps just "time"(instantaneous versus continuous power)? i.e Lots of mostly unused power sitting "idle" as a reserve for the couple millisecond demand of those dynamic peaks?

>From what I've read the SL Orions do very, to exceptionally, well on bass even with the 60 watts. How would 200 watts instead of his 60 improve the bass if the drivers bottom out at a little over 60 watts? Is it again just the millisecond peak demand for power that would be available or is there another reason?
fishboat

Showing 3 responses by cinematic_systems

Fishboat;

60 watts is all the speakers will take with the equalizations SL uses with the Peerless speakers in the kit. They have nothing more to give.

More power will not serve you well unless you increase the capacity of the woofers power handling by adding different woofers. You can't simply supersize this kit for $.49, what I would recommend is building a couple XLS subwoofers to help give the Orions a little more pop in the bass if that's what you're after.

Resist the more is better tendency and you're in the Orion crowd, the other "crowds" are irrelevant to your situation.
Whoa!

This thread had a great technical edge and now its tumbling out of control.

Passive crossovers are "voltage dividers", this is where the power goes, to ground especially in 2nd order and filters with notch filter etc. There are small losses in the components but the passive filter itself is a loss as it is addressing the fully amplified signal.

Drew/Bombay & Sean your original long posts were about 75% correct but this second group is getting into the land of speculation. Again good posts but now you guys are down to about 50% correct.

Sorry,I don't have time to correct the errors point for point.
Actually your right Sean, Bombaywalla through me off so much I attached what he was saying to your comments.

Although I disagree with two of your comments, factually they are not incorrect.

So I was 66% incorrect :)