Songs Faber Olympica III


Just got a pair of these speakers. I’ll be setting them up tonight. Hoping that I can benefit from the accumulated wisdom here...

Any tips from current owners? Setup, positioning, burn-in (although mine were previously owned, so burn-in shouldn’t be an issue), spikes versus no spikes (mine are on hardwood floors in the basement, meaning there's a concrete slab underneath), etc.

(I do know that I have the choice of positioning them so that the ports will either face outward or inward, and I glean from reviews that I should try it both ways to see what sounds best in my room.)

Any tips are greatly appreciated.
chipcarterdc
Just noticed that auto-correct changed "Sonus" in the title of this thread to "Songs."  Sorry about that!

Question: I am going to try bi-wiring these speakers.  I have a Macintosh 2275 integrated amp, which has 4ohm, 6ohm, an 8ohm taps.  Currently, the speakers are attached to the 4ohm tap running into the high inputs (using the bridge that came installed on the speakers).

For bi-wiring, which taps should I use? 8Ohm taps connected to the high inputs on both speakers and 4Ohm taps connected to the low inputs on both speakers? Or vice versa?
That’s what I would do... 4 ohm to the low/bass connectors and 8 ohm to the mid/hi. I believe the III’s dip down to near 2.6 ohm at 103 hz. So from what I gather,they are more of a nominal 3 ohm load. More current into lows connected that way. Of course,nothing is written in stone...

Also... When I was using a single run of cable to the III's I connected the cables to the low connectors and jumped to the mid/highs. This way seemed to let the speakers give a much more musical presentation overall.  The other way around thinned the sound out a bit,at least with my system. ymmv

Thanks! 

Bi-wired them this evening: sound quality jumps out as *noticeably* better in back to back A/B comparison.  Will need some time listening to them as bi-wired to be able to describe/quantify the improvements. 

Question: what would happen if I connected the low/bass input to the 2ohm taps rather than the 4ohm, and then either left the high input connected to the 8ohm or moved it down to the 4ohm?

By "what would happen," I mean both "what would one expect to hear" and "am I going to blow something up if I do this"?
The previous owner must have switched spikes or something, for they definitely come from the factory with shorter ones for the rear, longer ones in front to achieve the proper rake. I tried both inward and outward with the positioning of the ports, and much preferred them outward in my listening room. Mine are about 40" from the sides, 50" from the front wall, and about 9' apart. I listen in the nearfield, and they sound absolutely marvelous. The more good power you can provide them, the merrier. My room has always been excellent in the low end region, and the Olympica III's are down just 5db at 28hz in my room, verified by a mic at the listening position. As it is a dedicated room, it's well treated and my listening position is well away from the back wall. If you can give your new speakers similar allowances, you'll be well rewarded, trust me. One of the smoothest, most detailed tweeters you'll ever hear.
I forgot to add....my toe-in has the tweeters crossing about 2ft behind my head. After a LOT of trial and error, I find this gives the best balance. I am on on a wooden floor on a cement slab as you are, and I found very nice gains in bass definition by mounting the spikes on Herbie’s decoupling sliders. Definitely worth the $120+.