Just to see if it is worth it to mod the speaker, try using a simple wire with alligator clips on both ends to bypass the resistor that probably exists in series with the tweeter. It will take all of about one minute to accomplish this, most of which will be analyzing the crossover circuit itself.
If this adds at least as much sparkle as you are looking for, the path to happiness is easy. If you like it as is, remove the resistor. If things are too bright, try guesstimating the value the replacement resistor would be. As an example, if there is a 10 Ohm resistor in the circuit and bypassing it makes things screechy, try a 5 Ohm resistor. In the end, use a resistor at least as good as the OEM, and you will wind up with both more detail and less glare.
If going down this road works out, you will not affect the resale value whatsoever. |
Distortion, from two of the above posts, I was also a bit intrigued by your crossover. Is there any possibility of providing a picture?
It is possible that the coil is in parallel, which is what one of your descriptions implied. In that case, my next question is to describe the network on the woofer. Does the capacitor there run in parallel with the woofer? While I wouldn't exactly be surprised, as I had heard the speaker they produced which was geared to 2A3 amplification (SMsomethingorother?) used a series crossover, it is rare - the Frieds we produce which ALL use series crossovers.
Yes, both L Pads and Zobel require a resitor in parallel. The L Pad consists of one resistor in series with the tweeter, along with one, downstream, in parallel. The Zobel consists of a capacitor and resistor in parallel. |
Thank you for your kind words, Distortion.
First try jumping both the smaller cap and the 4 ohm resistor also in series with the tweeter. This is a Zobel network, meant to flatten the impedance rise of the tweeter's voice coil as the frequency increases. Listen a while, then see what you think. I am not the biggest Zobel fan in the world, but if I did use one, it would be on the woofer, not tweeter.
Remove the jumper.
Next jump the 15 ohm resistor in series with the tweeter. This should definitely bring things forward, though it may not be good sound. Just spend a little time listening.
Finally, again jump the Zobel, while also still bypassing the 15 ohm tweeter. See what you think of this.
If things are progressing in the direction you feel is positive, you are on the right track. If things are too upfront, and I expect them to be, try the simple route of 6 and 10 ohm resistor in series with the tweeter only. You don't need to solder it in, just use another jumper.
Does it sound better than where you started? That is the ultimate question. If not, remove the jumpers and leave things alone. Otherwise, wire in the revised, simpler circuit. |
Yes, it sure is fun to play with this stuff! After a while, just from doodling, you get the feel of how changes effect the sound, and how this so - called black art, to be even viewed only by the chosen ones, is really something we should be dabbling in.
Maybe I am getting confused via my own stupidity, but it looked to me that the Zobel was the small capacitor with the 4 ohm resistor. If I was able to see it, it would make more sense for me.
Again, I wouldn't run a Zobel on the tweeter, but that's just me (the shamans can now appear to burn me at the stake). It sounds like you are jumping the 4 ohm resistor and seem happy? If the way I am seeing the crossover is correct, and the small cap is in series with this resistor, try jumping the capacitor as well to bypass the Zobel entirely. This may be all that is needed.
Please let us know what you think after a few days. Is this the added sparkle you were looking for, without irritation? If not, we can throw a quick design together that would lower the parts quantity while raising the parts quality. As you said, FUN! |
Thank you for the kind words, Distortion.
Actually, I made a mistake in the initial analysis of the crossover. While thinking it was a 2nd order, after further review, it turned out to be a classic 3rd order, with 3 resistors. Mea culpa, mea culpa...
As far as tweaking, unless a redesign was in order, I'd probably keep things more or less the same, apart from trying the 2 Ohm, as Distortion is doing. If this wakes things up to the desired degree, but the sound seems harsh, but not overly forward, I would opt for replacing the three resistors with those from North Creek. Better resistors than the simple sand cast units in 99.9% of commercial speakers really get rid of the grain and harshness. |
Thank you, Usblues!
Distortion, you are lucky to have the crossover divided up onto two boards. It's very good design. I am pretty unfamiliar with the Soliloquy speakers, but I have liked the sound of those I have heard.
On the tweeter board, the inductor is obvious. The dime diamater 3/4" long component sounds like the capacitor, but you should really look at the writing on it and the other component. One will give the resistance value and power rating (say 12 Ohm and 5 or 10 watt) and the other will give the capacitance value and voltage (say 8 uF and 250V). In the end, the capacitor is probably encased in plastic, whereas the resistor is probably made of a harder substance such as a ceramic.
You want to simply use one of these jumpers with alligator clips on each end (probably available at any Radio Shack and a lot of Dollar Stores), and attach each end to the opposite resistor leads. This will bypass the resistor with the wire.
In a crossover, the resistor is used to attenuate the tweeter. The vast majority of tweeters are more sensitive than midrange/woofers (ie 92 db/2.83V tweeter and 89 db/2.83V midrange), and the resistor serves to balance things out.
For me, most high end speakers these days sound treble forward, and seem to need more resistance on the tweeter leg. It's a VERY personal thing, which also depends a lot of cabling (as has been wisely mentioned here) as well as the room one is in. With my tastes, in my bright room, I tend to pad down a tweeter too much - perhaps this is also how this speaker was designed. Again, it's a personal thing, but for Autospec, presuming he liked everything else the way things are, reducing the resistance on the tweeter should certainly bring the treble forward.
If one finds the high end wakes up via bypassing the tweeter, but things are too hot and some resistance is needed, I really like the resistors that NorthCreek Music sells. For about $3, they're superior to what just about any high end audio company uses. |
