Soldering Help


Hello, 

I am going to try soldering a connection in my preamp.  I don't have any equipment to do this.  I am looking for advice on materials.

I did read that I want to avoid solder with lead in it.

What soldering tool, solder, etc would people recommend? 

Thank you!

desferous

Showing 5 responses by rodman99999

 

@4krowme -

     You're welcome.

     I've encountered solders, whose flux chemistry made the finished product look, "dull".   Flux removal brought out the shine.

     There are other, more compelling reasons for flux removal, than aesthetics, of course*.

     *Good stuff, here: https://www.chemtronics.com/do-you-need-to-clean-flux

     Then again: I have seen cold solder joints that appeared dull, without the other signs/visuals, that would indicate a faulty joint.    That makes the case for an iron and large enough tip, to maintain a recommended temp, as well as sufficient/proper application of the heat (time, tinning and tip position.

      Regarding a good, silver-bearing solder: as mentioned:      https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW

      Adhere to their temp recommendations, follow good soldering guidelines and you can't go wrong!

                                Happy holidays and hobbying!

@desferous:

     Personally: I have never had a soldering iron turned up past what the solder manufacturer recommended.

     Nor: have a ever had the first problem with solder flowing nicely and quickly, whether on circuit board traces, point to point/multi-wire on a post, or: anything else, on a piece of electronic gear.     

     That's in over six decades of soldering (I was 12 when I learned), doing builds, repairs and upgrades, both professionally and as a hobby.

     When the eutectics hit the scene...what a Godsend!

     I have of course: of necessity, changed to larger tips, to sustain temperature on bigger joints.   The tiny tips are fine, when apropos.   ie: For upgrading those crappy, itty-bitty surface mount, electrolytic capacitors, with higher grade, radial lead caps (sans a mile of lead, each).     Soldering tweezers, to get the little boogers off the board,

      When desoldering: I find an out of the way joint and find the lowest melting point, of the OEM solder and proceed at that temp.      A soldapullt is a worthwhile investment, btw.       

       https://www.amazon.com/EDSYN-The-Original-Deluxe-SOLDAPULLT/dp/B006GOKVKI

      There are opinions and then: there's what the manufacturers know about their own products and electronic applications.

      I'll trust the guys that make the stuff (always worked for me and why I posted the above article)!

                      Your choice, of course (it's still a free country)!

                                           Happy holidays!

@desferous-

        Be careful, from whom you receive advice.

                ie: 350 Celsius = 662 Fahrenheit

        Cardas Quad Eutectic's melting point = 364-384 Degrees F (185 to 195º C)

        WBT 0805 = 420.8 - 426.2 Degrees Fahrenheit(216-219 C)

                A VERY worthwhile read, here (click the top right of page to expand):

:

 

     Then again: if you're anywhere around Indianapolis, IN and only planning on ever tackling the one soldering project; bring it over and I'll do it for you, gratis.

     btw: Lead Free solders are typically used for plumbing, to avoid getting the crap in a water supply.

     Though there are some made for audio: they are expensive and usually have higher melting points

                                   Happy listing and holidays!

      Below are links to three solders I've found very easy to work with low melting points, great flow, etc.

     Just pick a soldering station that fits your budget. 

     keep the solder tip clean/shiny (with a damp piece of sponge) and tinned.

     Use miniature alligator clips on component leads and to block heat from toasting anything that would suffer from the same..

      Make as secure a connection (metal to metal), as possible, before applying heat, while touching both pieces, at the junction to be be soldered.

       Remove the soldering iron tip, as soon as the solder flows into the joint, to further avoid any component toasting.

https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Soldering-Eutectic-Silver-Solder/dp/B015X68HXW

https://www.amazon.com/WBT-0800-Silver-Solder-Content/dp/B00125OCVU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2TU8AYPHUQCUW&keywords=wbt+solder&qid=1640095423&s=hi&sprefix=wbt+solder%2Ctools%2C73&sr=1-4

https://www.partsconnexion.com/TRT-72752.html

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sloder+station&crid=329NPWJX68JFT&sprefix=solder+station%2Caps%2C145&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

     The copper clips are excellent, but: the shiny minis work well, to sink the heat, also:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=miniature+alligator+clips+heat+sinks&crid=3R9C7B0PPMZR5&sprefix=miniature+alligator+clips+heat+sinks%2Caps%2C83&ref=nb_sb_noss

                                      Enjoy the learning experience!