So done with audiophile fuses

Not that I use, would use or advocate the use of expensive boutique fuses, under the pretense of getting superior sound - I do not; but here's the deal: Never should a dealer or a fuse manufacture recommend using a higher rated fuse than recommended by the equipment's manufacturer. If there is a consistent problem with a particular brand of fuse/fuses blowing under normal circumstances, that fuse manufacturer probably should re-evaluate the amp ratings of their fuses.
For the protection of your equipment and prevention of your own liability, one should always use properly rated fuses ...Jim

Wow! Really, oldhvymec, a peanut or dried TURD in place of a recommended, properly rated fuse is OK if it gets you Better sound. I just went back through all my old notes, the current UBC, NEC and NFPA 70 and nowhere does it say or imply that it is permissible to use a peanut, dried TURD or Anything Else in place of a required fuse or breaker of specific value in a circuit or device designed for such......Jim 

@ antigrunge2  Very Good! :-) :-) :-)

@molingus Ahem. In what 3rd world country do you all live where shorting a fuse in an audio amp starts your hovel on fire? Move into the modern world, where our buildings have code, and our breaker boxes have, uhhh, breakers installed.

It is a mis conception that a faulty component that takes damage when its fuse does not blow, will instantly trip a 15A or 20A circuit breaker before enough damage is done to start a fire in the component. In most cases it will not. If your faulty component doesn't blow a 10A fuse (where there should have been a 3A or 5A fuse) before causing damage or fire, don't expect it to trip a 20A circuit breaker.......Jim

@molingus My point being, the danger of fire is in or at the component itself not wether or not it causes enough overload at the outlet or anyplace in the circuit to trip the breaker before causing a fire in the wall.

I agree, at any rate, if your component is blowing fuses, something is wrong and it needs to be fixed., not band aided with a bigger fuse or breaker.

I also agree that components are designed and built (with few exceptions) with a power supply thats job is to make that component operate and sound as intended, using the power supplied by any particular country’s energy suppliers without having to add thousands of dollars of fancy outlets, cables and magic fuses.

If I paid $20K for an amp and it didn't sound incredible with the cable/cord and fuses it came with, I'd send the sucker back and get something else.....Jim

@sugabooger The job of a safety fuse in a component is to protect the cord that is connected to that unit ???

The current is flowing from the input end of the fuse to the output end of the fuse. When there is a problem or a short in the component it causes an amperage surge that blows the fuse. When the fuse blows it stops the current at that point, hopefully preventing further damage to the component. Unless the home circuit breaker is tripped or the cord is unplugged there is still power to and through the cord, it just has no place to go, so current into the component is stopped. Stick in another fuse and unless you’ve solved the problem, it too will blow....Jim