Fatparrot:
Congradulations! You'll love that table. I currently use the 10 as well and have added a couple of notable tweaks and upgrades.
As for isolation, the table itself does a remarkable job considering it is an unsprung design. Your tweak will, in part depend upon what kind of stand it is being used on. I had tremendous success adding a BDR Source self with #4 BDR cones underneath it (points down). My stand is a Salamander synergy S30 Twin. Everthing seemed to tighthen up a bit and become that much more detailed. I'm guessing that an "air design" or "sand design" would have the opposite effect, but it may be worth a shot.
In the future, you might consider the following as well. The stock SME phono cable tends to be a bit harsh and analytical. Given the SME's tendency torward a fast, rythmic, and detailed nature, the cable results in a less involving result. I'm currently using a Kimber TAK and am considering others such as the Hoveland or Silver Breeze, but regardless, the TAK resulted in an amazing improvement. Much smoother, airy, and involving/musical.
Next, consider an upgrade of the arm. Going from the stock 10 arm (a glorified 309) to the SME V proved to make a difference in base extension and overall frequency range, while improving overall sound that was very significant.
Hope this all helps. I'm not familiar with the Grado's sound, but you'll certainly have to take it into account when tweaking. I'm using a Helikon and find it's warmer, yet very accurate tendencies compliment the SME 10's qualities extremely well.
Good Luck.
Congradulations! You'll love that table. I currently use the 10 as well and have added a couple of notable tweaks and upgrades.
As for isolation, the table itself does a remarkable job considering it is an unsprung design. Your tweak will, in part depend upon what kind of stand it is being used on. I had tremendous success adding a BDR Source self with #4 BDR cones underneath it (points down). My stand is a Salamander synergy S30 Twin. Everthing seemed to tighthen up a bit and become that much more detailed. I'm guessing that an "air design" or "sand design" would have the opposite effect, but it may be worth a shot.
In the future, you might consider the following as well. The stock SME phono cable tends to be a bit harsh and analytical. Given the SME's tendency torward a fast, rythmic, and detailed nature, the cable results in a less involving result. I'm currently using a Kimber TAK and am considering others such as the Hoveland or Silver Breeze, but regardless, the TAK resulted in an amazing improvement. Much smoother, airy, and involving/musical.
Next, consider an upgrade of the arm. Going from the stock 10 arm (a glorified 309) to the SME V proved to make a difference in base extension and overall frequency range, while improving overall sound that was very significant.
Hope this all helps. I'm not familiar with the Grado's sound, but you'll certainly have to take it into account when tweaking. I'm using a Helikon and find it's warmer, yet very accurate tendencies compliment the SME 10's qualities extremely well.
Good Luck.