Short Lifetime for 6NS7 Tubes


I’ve been experiencing a high rate of 6SN7 tubes and their variants becoming microphonic and some going bad way too soon. I buy NOS tubes from only two venders with stellar reputations that are often mentioned here on the forum.
Please, no lectures on the risk of buying NOS; I’ve been buying 12AU7’s and 12AX7’s for my various preamps for years from these dealers and I can only recall sending two tubes back. Anyway, I’ve owned my current preamp for one year and have been rolling in 6SN7’s.
I’ve had 6SN7GT’s and 6SN7GTB’s go microphonic in a few months time, and I’ve had a RCA 5692 "redbase" and a RCA VT-231 go bad in less than a year. This latest tube (VT-231) drove me crazy as I tried to diagnose why my system was lacking bass and detail; surely it couldn’t be a 6 month old tube. I cleaned the connections, changed cables, but it turned out to be the tubes. I don’t know if it is one or the pair that is bad.

You know who these dealers are and the tubes I buy have the test results written on the box and are matched. They offer 30 day returns, but that doesn’t help in my situation. Has anybody else experienced 6SN7’s living a short life or have I just been unlucky?

* a typo in the title, I'm really not a dummy.

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Showing 3 responses by rfogel8

Three pieces of my audio gear run 6SN7's;  Atma-Sphere MP-1 Mk3, MA-1 Mk3's and a Modwright modded CD player, a total of 22 6SN7's. After initial break-in, all 22 stock Chinese tubes in all three pieces were replaced with NOS. Needless to say, large improvements across the board.

The Atma-Sphere gear is almost ten years old and I have yet to replace a tube, not even a power tube. With all those tubes, I also thought it sensible to own a Hickok 533A tube tester and I check things periodically.

I'm not familiar with the UV-1 but I'd definitely check with Ralph. I remember talking to him early on about which tube positions in his equipment would bring the biggest improvements when rolling. He made it a point to say some circuits and some brands of equipment are more demanding on tubes. For example, a couple positions in the MP-1 require a 6SN7 GTB because it can handle higher plate voltages. Using a 6SN7GT, VT-231 or 5692 which can't handle the higher voltage will most likely cause an early death.  

I've never counted but I must have over a hundred NOS triodes around here with a few nice rectifiers thrown in. Concerning 6SN7's, it seems to me that most of the noisy(kind of a spitty sound) and microphonic tubes I've encountered have been very old 6SN7GT's and their equivalents.

The red base RCA 5692 is a perfect example; some have a brown base and are branded Sylvania but were made by RCA. When they're quiet and up to spec, that tube can last beyond 10,000 hours and it can sound wonderful in the right gear. I've never had great luck with the various VT-231's either. They're an old tube and supposed to be a more "rugged" version made for the military. Most of the ones I've heard were microphonic.
The exception, and I'm guessing I was just lucky, is the highly sought after black glass Tung-Sol 6SN7GT sometimes branded VT-231. I found two pairs of them several years ago and was able to hear them in my own equipment before plunking my money down. They still sound and test fine; actually, they sound exceptional.

My advice, call Ralph. I'd also pick up a couple inexpensive RCA GTB's and give them a try. Some prefer the Sylvania's but to my ears they can sound a bit aggressive
Ralph, I actually meant to type MP-1 and my notes from a conversation we had some years ago indicate that the pair of 6SN7's between the 12AT7's on the left and the three 6SN7's to the right in each channel are Constant Current Sources and that they should be low noise and GTB's? Did I miss something?

The three in line on the right side of each channel should be Voltage Amplifier in front then a pair of Output/Power tubes to the rear. Rolling that Voltage Amplifier with NOS makes the biggest difference. 

In the MA-1 amps, looking down on the five 6SN7's in each channel, the "direct-coupled driver" is the forward tube nearest the face plate. I do show a GTB in that position and I've found from experience rolling it can bring nice improvements. 

A question, for those of us who have tube testers, do you think running the "life test" stresses the tube and perhaps causes premature failure down the road? From what I understand, when selecting "life test", voltage is reduced by approximately 10% so maybe not?