Shelf Material


I have tried so many different shelf materials, and some are better than others, but I feel like I am just spraying bullets that always miss the bulls-eye. So far, I cannot live with the brightness of glass, the ringing of marble or granite, the sluggishness of acrylic, the muddiness of mdf etc. Light and rigid seems better than heavy and dense - in that I can live with the downsides more easily. I use heavily constructed welded steel racks - spiked to the floor and upward spikes supporting the shelves - and I reckon this is right. I like the way bladder products get rid of the resonances that plague shelves, but find that the way they slow down the pace of the music is hard to accept. Does anyone have some answers on this?
redkiwi

Showing 4 responses by garfish

Redkiwi; I love this kind of gritty obsseviness-- makes me feel right at home. But my therapist thinks.......! What kind of shelves/rack do you actually use in your present system? Also what kind of floor do you have, and anything else relavant to the vibration control problem? A couple of years ago I decided to go with "mass" and made a 200+ lb. stereo stand-- concrete in the corner posts, well braced, MDF shelves,spiked to floor, etc-- works good, but can probably be critisized in some areas. Concrete in the corner posts was not the "absolute best" choice, but decisions had to be made if I was going to have music within a reasonable period of time (BTW, Sound Anchors Speaker Stands uses concrete in their stands, which are used by Vandersteen). Many other materials and design decisions had to be made if I was ever going to finish my project. So, I'm really curious as to what you've actually been using. Cheers. Craig.
Hi Redkiwi; Are you calling me Garfield? Recently, to audition a tube amp, I pulled my McCormack DNA-2DX amp out of its usual position on the bottom shelf of my large, heavy, all welded steel stereo stand. It has Melamine MDF shelves. After finishing with the tube amp, I put the DNA-2 back in, and over the next couple of days was generally disappointed with music quality which was vaguely irritating-- bass was sort of muddy, mids congested, and upper mids and low treble were slightly bright and even wirey-- but hey, I had been listening to a tube amp for several days (I was also breaking in a fairly new AC cord). It finally dawned on me that one thing I had neglected to do was re-set the DNA-2s vibration grounding spike. The DNA-2 amps have six sorbothane decoupling feet and a coupling grounding spike at the bottom, center, rear of the amp. This spike is threaded directly into the bottom plate of the amp. It's purpose is to couple the amp to the material it sits on. Yes, I know this sounds contradictory,ie to have both decoupling and coupling mechanisms built into the same component, but it REALLY works. After I screwed the "spike" down to the point where the two rear amp feet were just off the shelf (this is what McCormack recommends) I played some music and VIOLA' the music came back-- bass became deep, tight and solid, mids became more clear and well defined, and best of all the brightness/wireness of upper mids and treble went away. BTW, years ago when Stereophile reviewed the DNA-1 amp, the reviewer commented that the soft feet AND the "spike" were a contradiction and the reviewer didn't think they should "work together", but according to Steve McCormack-- not so, ie they DO complement each other; and hey, S. McCormack invented the famous Tip Toes. I have two points here: (1) this dual approach system really does work on the DNA amps, and (2) So why wouldn't it also work with other components-- at least those that don't have to be perfectly level such as DACs and pre-amps. It would be easy enough to check out, all that would be needed is two Sorbothane feet such as Audioquests Big Feet (or Little Feet), and a sharp metal cone foot (for a tripod arrangement). I don't have either yet, but think I'll round some up to try. Steve McCormack certainly has to be one of the masters of vibration control in stereo components. He is at www.smcaudio.com should you want to contact him. And he is a very nice guy. The above ramble is not about shelf materials, but I think it is certainly germane to your subject. Cheers. Craig.
At the risk of asking a really dumb question........I am not familiar with Corian. How does it compare to Formica (over MDF) as used here in the USA for counter tops etc? Thanks. Craig
Thanks Kitch29 and Redkiwi for the discussion of Corian-- sounds like it's a bitch to work with, and probably best to get it pre-cut to size by the pros. Has anyone used plain ol' formica on MDF? And maybe with formica also on the bottom of the MDF? Cheers. Craig