Shelf Material


I have tried so many different shelf materials, and some are better than others, but I feel like I am just spraying bullets that always miss the bulls-eye. So far, I cannot live with the brightness of glass, the ringing of marble or granite, the sluggishness of acrylic, the muddiness of mdf etc. Light and rigid seems better than heavy and dense - in that I can live with the downsides more easily. I use heavily constructed welded steel racks - spiked to the floor and upward spikes supporting the shelves - and I reckon this is right. I like the way bladder products get rid of the resonances that plague shelves, but find that the way they slow down the pace of the music is hard to accept. Does anyone have some answers on this?
redkiwi

Showing 17 responses by dekay

The same shelf and devices will not have the same sound on different components. There are a lot of variables such as stock feet, cones, pods , etc., as well as the shelf (or layers of shelves and isolators) and also included into the equation is the specific component that you are isolating. My layer for my CD player is 3/4" Persimmon (the cabinet itself), Vibrapods, 3/4" MDF, stock feet on CAL Icon II and it sounds great. The cabinet construction as well as it's location from the speakers must influence the sound as well. I have also used 1" thick marble in the equation and found it to be too bright though a friend preferred that sound, probably because the setup sounded more like his Marantz 67 Mk II player which was his reference and taste. I once added stick on floor tiles to the bottom of an extended "plastic" shelf with good results (to me) and the tiles were not visible unless you were laying on the floor. I think that it is all up to individual tailoring for each component, and when taking into consideration individual taste, that there is no answer. I can even imagine in some cases that added resonance may even improve the sound depending on what the sound is that one is looking for.
My comment that some resonance may improve the sound quality was based on the assumption that many products have been "voiced" when under the influence of a certain amount of resonance. To remove all or more realistically much/most of the resonance may in fact degrade the sound. This is hypothetical.
Interesting post Onhwy61. I have never thought of hanging/suspending components other than speakers (which I have done in the past with good results. I am in a postition to try this on my CD source and amplifier(s) that are in an enclosed piece of furniture with a cap or top that would support the cables. I would have to make holes in the top shelf to allow the support cables to run through to the bottom shelf, but other than proper alignment I do not see this as a problem. I am in the process of making templates for the top shelf (which with this feature would require two shelves - top and bottem) and may include this feature in the design. Guess that I would still use Vibrapods between the shelf and the gear. Has anyone "hung" their equipment, and is this a sound idea?
Redkiwi: If you try hanging or suspending a component, please post your results. I just realized that in my setup I would have to include small line tighteners in order to level the platforms. Can't think of a better way.
Redkiwi: Thanks for the update. I just screwed up my left shoulder and am going to have to wait on the project, but here are a few ideas that I have had. Using small maybe 1/64th piano wire with line tightners for the cables (they should not stretch like braided wire or plastic line)and should pretty much remain level after the frame settles in. If I can squeeze the extra height in my cabinet I would also like to try double shelves that layer as follows (MDF/Vibrapods/MDF/component with stock feet resting on top) and a sheet of aluminum on the bottom side of the bottom layer to help shield my amps from the power supply in my CD player wich will rest directly below the amps. I figure that if it doesn't work I can always reinstall the same shelves by placing lips on the inside sides of the cabinet and resting the shelves on them. Then just play with isolation teqniques between the shelf and the lip. In the meantime I am going to have to rest my amps in "cat territory" on the outside top of my cabinet.
Redkiwi: I do not know what sonic difference the solid core piano wire will offer. I suspect that any braided or elastic cable whether metal or nylon will stretch from the weight of the gear/platforms and that the amount of stretch will not be uniform per cable. This stretching would necessitate constant leveling of the platform on which the CD player rests. I was just trying to be "practical" with the suggestion. ROFL. And yes, spikes sound like a good way to go with plan B. The aluminum sheeting on the bottom of the shelves should hold up to them.
Redkiwi: I should warn you that I designed and built all of the curtain rod/window treatment accessories for our apartment and ended up using blue rubber "dog balls" for the finials in the dining room. I do have a tendancy to cut corners.
It seems to me that MDF would make a very good shelf material - low mass and high rigitidy. I use 3/4" instead of 1/2" with good results as a standard (non-suspended) platform. It also has no grain. Am I thinking correctly? I have a 5' x 2 1/2' x 2 1/2" maple glue-lam butcher block that I salvaged from a restaurant but would rather go with MDF based on the info in these posts.
I just finished a very informative telecon with a manufacturer that feels that hard maple is one of the best platform materials. I will not speak for him in detail and would just like to note his reccomendation in this thread. He sounded very busy with many calls but hopefully he will have the time to visit this site and elaborate. Suspended platforms for home use also got a thumbs up. I will be putting in a MDF shelf poised on spikes for now as my new amp arrives this Friday and our houseguest ,my stepdaughter, the following week. I am really just throwing this together for her benefit (and to show off a little). Otherwise it could have waited at least another week or so. LOL.
Caterham: Thanks for reminding me, I knew that there was something that I had forgot. I use 3/4" MDF which should still be tuff enough with a 5" hole. The hole is to be random and not on center, is this correct? I have been told that the shielding that I was going to add with an aluminum sheet will deteriorate the sound (resonance wise) more than the shielding will improve it, so a hole is now not a problem. If I still loose sleep over nastiness from my source's power supply bothering my amps it will be easier to place a shield inside the CD player. I own it and it's out of warranty. We are tidying up with a back hoe at this point and I have located my scroll saw and power drill as well as a bubble level. My finishing saw is still under the surface somewhere. The lumber yard cuts to order even on scraps, so this is not a problem and is the easy way to go. I have to pick up my additional Kimber Kable this week (I decided to stick with the 4VS until I can shorten the runs) and the shop should have a supply of spikes to choose from. I would like to try brass if they have them. I am also going to try the "best" cones from the Mapleshade website ($110.00) under the CD player as well. I had less than good results with another cone manufacturer and have been close minded on the subject, now it's time to get over it and try something else other than the Vibrapods. If I have time I will make notes on the various isolators as well as the mass reducing hole.
Thanks Sam: I did not realize that the Pods would raise the X gear enough. I have a set here (right under my nose) and yes they work like a charm. I guess that the SS preamp section is then more succeptable to vibration than the SS power amp. I use wheelbarrow tubes under our two box mini system and the improvement is startling. It makes a cheap little system very listenable in the main bedroom. All that I have ever done to the mini system other than the tubes is to use Kimber 4VS cable and upgrade the speakers to Polk RT15's ($90.00 a pair on closeout). I will always keep it around (due to it's tape decks) to listen to old Disco tapes as well as Bio-feedback tapes that I use.
Caterham: I finished the MDF shelving yesterday and had two shelves cut. One with an off center hole and one solid. I could not hear a difference between the two though neither sounded very good with my Musical Fidelity amp resting on them with its stock "integral" feet. I am not very articulate at describing sound so I will just say that I lost HF shimmer and a little LF definition as well. The amp was previously resting on the Persimmon wood of the cabinet and this combo sounded much better. I tried mystery adjustable speaker spikes (free from a friend) between the lips and the shelving which also made very little difference. I suspect that the problem is that the 3/4" shelf is 24" in width and I will try 1" thick high density board next. My lumber yard did not charge me for the MDF or the cuts which means that I am probably due for a shave and haircut. I will keep my ten year old T-shirt and shorts though. The CD player is still resting on its original layering system below so it is just the amp shelf that muddled up the sound. I may try terra cotta and other ceramic tiles under the amp(s) (my second one arrives this morning) as I have never used these materials and they are dirt/clay cheap. I was also able to free up 2" of space below the source to try the Mapleshade cones which I will order today. Since I will be burning in a new amp and cable I will not be able to experiment for a while as there are too many variables to account for. If tiles or other thin layers do not work with the MDF the amps will be going back into kitty territory for the time being until I try a 1" shelf of MDF or another material. I only have a 12" height to work with in the cabinet which severely limits my options. I will save the good materials (2 1/2" maple and marble) for a freestanding rack that I will build when I am more active. The freestanding rack will allow me to have normal cable runs and better speaker placement but will have to wait until the spring/summer at the earliest. I can barely move after putting together this simple shelf and my wife is not very supportive of any more construction projects for the time being. I will be certain to copy this thread for future use and will add comments in regard to the Mapleshade cones, etc., when the accessories arrive and settle into the system. I wish that I had a way to "beam" my maple slab to Redkiwi, it must weigh at least 100 pounds.
Caterham: Both shelves (whole and with a hole) were cut from the same piece of MDF, there were no other shelf materials involved. I did not power down the system or move my source, so the comparison was quick and easy. Their was no noticeable difference between the two, though both sounded bad. The shelves were used on my amp only and not the source. The next time I will try 1" MDF with and without the hole. The 3/4" MDF is definitely too thin for the 24" stretch. I have Musical Fidelity X gear (the funny shaped stuff) which limits what I can do. I am really dependent on the platform as I cannot change the feet on the components. I also do not have enough clearance left in the cabinet to add more than 1/2" to the sandwich. I had to power down this morning to add my new dual mono power amp (which has a bad hum in both of the channels past 9 O'clock on the gain) so I will wait a few weeks to try the 1" shelf. I already requested a call tag for the amp and hopefully it can be repaired as it is the only one available. I already tried switching polarity, isolating cords and the power supply, etc., so it is something internal most likely in the separate power supply as both channels are humming. Anyway, the reduced mass theory is sound - the materials in their application were just not up to par for a decent evaluation. Aside from function I have been thinking of how rewarding it would be to design the form of equipment racks as I have yet to see a stock one that I would want in my living room. We have very diversified tastes that range from a late 1800s black lacquered bent wood settee to the original umbrella chair, but none of the racks cut it as far as I am concerned.
Sam: What have you used sussecfully under the "X" components? Have you found a way to get around the stock integral feet, or do you use the stock feet in your formula? I am just playing with the amp(s) for now but may pick up the X-Ray (used) and later add a DAC as you suggested.
Where do you purchase Corian? If it is readily available and stiff enough for a 24" stretch between supports I may want to try it for my second amp/preamp shelf. I do not mean to drive anyone crazier, but the best sound for my CD player so far has been Vibrapods resting on the "Persimmon" wood that my cabinet is made of.
Thank you Caterham for not calling me dim. I have seen Corian on "This Old House" but did not make the connection. It is much easier to source than Persimmon.
Redkiwi: Are the Corian platforms still suspended (hanging) or are they on stationary supports? I am losing track at this point. Also, whether stationary or suspended are the Pods sandwiched between the Corian and your components? I do not know how much time Craig at Vibrapods has to spare but I will let him know about this thread as he may want to play as well.