Just got a Russco Studio Pro Model B in very good shape. This will get a complete tear down and restore.
Doing the mechanical work and machine work is not a problem, but I'm not into wood working and don't have access to those kind of tools. Not sure what I'm doing about a plinth yet. I know it should be high mass to dampen any vibration. Anyone have a plinth from a project sitting unused?
BillWojo
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I tried checking out your page on here and all I get is a spinny thing that never stops. It's under "Systems"Do you have pictures posted else where?As far as your Fairchild, that really sucks. It had to be someone that knew exactly what you had. Someone that had been in there. Average thief would have no clue to its value.
BillWojo
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oldhvymec, do you have any pictures and details of your Russco builds? I'm already planning to get rid of the ball on ball spindle thrust bearing with a ball on Delrin thrust pad. I have a new bottom bearing brass setscrew that I will machine for the Delrin insert pad.
I'm going to have Terry's Rubber Rollers rebuild my idler wheel a soon as I get the new oil lite bushings delivered for it. I also found a nice replacement on ebay that looks like a Audio Silente style with the o-ring type drive rim.
I also have new isolation mounts coming directly from LORD manufacturing so that I know they are fresh and not 20 year old NOS junk.While the chassis is out being powder coated hammertone grey I will go through the motor as well.
So any hints and tips to quiet this down will be appreciated. Pictures help a lot as well. Do you post on any other forums?
BillWojo
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Just looked at that link. I have the same motor on my table. I fired it up for a few seconds and it ran pretty smooth but I'm going to take it apart to clean and lube it. It feels slightly stiff.
BillWojo
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I paid about 13 bucks each for the isolation mounts. The two closest to the front are rated 2lb per 1/16" deflection and the one in the rear is rated 1/2 lb per 1/16" deflection from the Russco factory so that is what I bought from LORDS.
Today I stopped by McMaster Carr and picked up new spindle bushings and a new bushing for the stock idler. Will replace the bushing before I send it out to get rebuilt. They also had the brass setscrew and a bar of Delrin waiting for me. Need to get over my buddys machine shop soon.
Today I stripped the plinth, still need to get the lamps out. I hate those one way metal clips that hold them in. Hopefully I can find time to visit the powder coater soon.Any tips that you have are greatly appreciated, I intend to make this a killer table.
Thanks
BillWojo
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oldhvymec, have you ever used Dynamat on the chassis? Once you strip everything from the cast chassis it rings like a bell if you tap it. I just hate to stick it on as I don't think it comes off easily.
I got a lot done today at my buddy's shop. I used a internal bearing puller and removed the top bushing from the spindle housing. The lower bearing couldn't be reached so I did a quick measurement and as I suspected, it showed little wear. So I made a bushing driver and a guide block and installed a new bushing for the top bearing. Now the clearance between the spindle and bushing measures 0.0013, about 0.0005 tighter than before. I also made a new bottom bearing setscrew with a Delrin puck insert. While I was at it I made a bushing driver to replace the oil lite bearing in the idler as well. Now it spins freely on the idler stud with no play. Will ship that to Terrys Rubber Rollers tomorrow.Next week the chassis goes to the powder coater.
BillWojo
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I have one of those armboards coming next week. I'm waiting for it before I drop everything off at the powder coating guy.
Actually, one of the nicest spindle bearings I've worked with was on an old Pioneer PL-41D belt drive. Spindle was aprox 3/8" in diameter and very finely ground with an integrated ball on the end. The bearing pad was shot so I made up a new one out of Delrin. The bearings were bronze sleeves, not oilite, finely honed and they showed zero signs of wear. The amount of play was extremely small, I didn't measure it but well less than 0.001. My guess is that they followed the rule of thumb for plain bearings, 0.001 clearance per inch of diameter. So it was probably around 0.0004 clearance in that bearing. Using light hydraulic oil for lube, with belt off it would take over 3 minutes to spin down and come to a complete stop. Totally silent as well.
If I get noise from this bearing, I'll redesign the spindle housing and make it out of aluminum barstock with a bottom cap so a Sunnen hone can pass through. I'll use bronze bearing stock for the bearing sleeves and do the final sizing with a hone to get down to 0.0005 to 0.0007 clearance. With a Delrin thrust pad it should be completely silent.
With no oil in the spindle and having 0.0013 clearance, my spindle feels very loose. Because of that I will be running a heavier weight oil in this unit.
I think when these tables were designed they worried more about reliable operation than fidelity. A seized spindle was simply not tolerated, hence the very liberal clearances.
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There are after market idler brackets from Europe that sell for 50 bucks and there is a guy in Thailand that I purchased an idler wheel from, listed at 75 bucks or make off. I offered 60 bucks and it’s on the way for 68 bucks shipped. He advertises on Ebay. Look for past listing or search seller name windkit.
The idler wheel that I purchased looks like a high end Audio Silente wheel that uses an o-ring for a tire. My buddy that has both a Thorens and a Garrard swears by that design.
Check on Karmadon.net for the bracket.
Or, I’ll pay you 100 bucks to get that broken TT off of your hands. LOL Even pay shipping.
BillWojo
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Anyone using Sonic Barrier from Parts Express? A bit like Dynamat, want to apply t to the bottom of the aluminum chassis. After stripping the chassis, it rings like a bell if tapped.
BillWojo
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pindac, I have been looking at the Lenco Heaven forum, some neat builds there although I'm not a big fan of Lenco TT they have some good ideas.
Thanks
BillWojo
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oldhvymec, can you give me some more detail on your idler wheel mods, not sure what you mean concerning offsets. I think I follow your line about machining a groove on the OD of the platter and using say a rubber o-ring and having that in line with the idler wheel on the inside.
I'd want to find a spare platter to make that mod to as mine is in very nice shape. Sounds like an excellent idea though. Remember turning brake drums on the brake lathe? Used a rubber strap on the OD to kill any resonances. Same idea.
BillWojo
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Love the paint job you did on the Russco chassis, much like what I plan as well. Do you find the rubber mat an improvement over the felt mat? I was planning on going with a red felt mat and grey hammertone powder coat.
What cartridge are you running? I'm going to put a Denon DL-103 on mine. Love those old things.
Bill
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Well this project is finally moving again. I found a fellow in Texas (master wood worker with a keen interest in idlers) that would build a nice plinth for me. It's detailed on this post on AK. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/russco-studio-pro-plinth-build.966246/Chassis out at the powder coaters. All parts are now in and my friend Andy the master wood worker has his own Russco as well. My new Delrin tipped brass setscrew has worked out great for him. Tonearm is going to be a Victor UA-5045 with a Denon DL-103 cartridge. BillWojo |
Glad to hear that your on the road to recovery.
Hopefully I pick up my parts this week from the powder coating guy so I can start reassembling everything.
Andy, my plinth builder who hangs out on AK did some testing on my Delrin tipped brass setscrew. This has a 5/16 diameter flat Delrin puck pressed into a 1/2-13 x 1.25 long brass setscrew.
Even though he still had the stock idler wheel on it he said it dropped the noise way more than he expected it to. His platter is the flat bottomed spindle bearing style. So my spindle bearing design is off to a good start. He is also getting a few idlers made out of Delrin that will use the o-ring tire.
I think these two modifications alone will make a huge difference in the way these tables sound.
I'll update things as I move along. You to Dave, keep us updated on the 2 Russco plinth. That will be very cool.
BillWojo
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