RRL Cleaner, Vinyl Zyme, and Groove Glide

Red2,

You may have applied too much Gruv Glide. I've found that the quickest spray you can possibly apply to the pad is just right and you'll treat about twice as many albums. You don't need more than you need. Not to worry though. The stylus will push out the excess with a couple of plays or you can buff the record somewhat with a dry pad.

I've found that record cleaning is such a personal thing to us audiophiles that it's easy to get into disagreements about the subtleties. Grasshopper, read the archives, try different approaches and you will find peace. Enjoy!

Okay, here's the deal guys. Tomorrow I'm going to immerse several records in an isopropyl alcohol bath, labels and all. I've got an import picked out, a generic pressing from the 70's, an early 60's jazz and my least favorite MFSL. So, here's the questions I have. How long should I soak them? What magnification should I be seeking in a microscope in order to see any changes? Do the members here trust my ears when reporting sonic changes or lack thereof? How long is sufficient, in your opinion, to wait for leeching to happen?

I'm also going to try and find residue from an evaporative process of the cleaners I have on hand. I'll be using alcohol in computer chip manufacturing multi-stage processed water and RRL cleaner and wash. How much of each type of fluid would be enough in your opinion? Would you prefer microscopic inspection, weighing or both?

Does anyone have any idea on how I can find fact about whether Gruv Glide interferes with the stylus interface in the groove? My ears do not confirm what Narrod claims and my vinyl has been played on some of the finest systems I've ever imagined. Input on this subject is really wanted.

Then, if I go through all of this trouble will anyone believe the results if I post them? I did this with the rice paper sleeve controversy and the same old claims pop up.

Anyone have access to an electron microscope?

I'm working today so I'll put this off until I get some input and more free time. There's no sense in doing this unless others are interested. Perhaps I'll just soak the albums for a month or so, clean them and note any audible differences. But then, maybe my system isn't capable, in the minds of others, to resolve any differences. One last note on this. I'm not trying to be a smart ass or start any barbs between members. I'm genuinely curious as my findings differ from others. Honestly, I think the hardest part will be gaining access to a really high powered microscope without breaking my bank, not to mention a desire to photograph the resultant images. Should this become cost prohibitive I will need some ideas on how to evaluate on the cheap.

TGB & Styx,

Reverse osmosis is a great method for filtering water to the levels you enjoy but many molecules less complex than water get through the membrane. You probably have somewhere around 1 ppm total desolved solids in your water. This is very high quality for human consumption. Assuming you live in a city whith chlorinated water you will notice that you have an activated charcoal filter in your systems. The purpose of the charcoal is to remove the chlorine out of the RO water just prior to dispensing. Chlorine is less complex than water and therefore passes through the membrane. Surprising as it is, the charcoal improves the taste of your water far more than the membrane.

Industrial grade pure water goes through multiple steps to achieve a very low TDS. Chlorine may be introduced to kill bacteria. An iron filter may be needed to remove very high concentrations of iron that would overload conventional water softeners. Water softening would be used to remove most of the remaining minerals. Reverse osmosis is then used to further reduce (mainly salts) the mineral content prior to multi-stage deionizing.

Your products are very, very good as the life expectency is longer than a refrigerator, therefore producing high quality water very cheaply. They don't compete in a scientific comparison to deionized bottled water though.

I also own an RO system and love it. Be aware that in order for the membranes to last the water should first be conditioned as salts are easier on the membrane than hard water minerals. The only reason I know this stuff is because I designed several systems for food processing plants and each plant had specific needs based on the incoming raw water.

If you can find KDF filled replacement filter cartridges instead of charcoal you will only need to replace the KDF once every five years instead of every six months or so. It also removes some nasty chemicals that can pass through an RO filter.

I'm not going to sell or give away my supply of RRL. I've got a quart of each. My circumstances and needs are different from a lot of audiophiles, I think. Here's a great example. I purchased a collection and much to my surprise Cowboy Junkies "Trinity Sessions" was in the batch and looked wonderful. At the time I was using my home brew and there was a constant crackling (granted, at very low levels) surface noise. After reading so many postive things about the RRL products I stepped up and purchased some and recleaned the record again. The noise was reduced but not by a wide margin. After receiving my order of AIVS I pulled this album, cleaned it again in the same manner I used the other products and was shocked to hear no surface noise at all. My wife who was preparing dinner at the time put the meal on simmer and came in to join me. Honestly, she almost never takes the time to sit and listen. She commented about how great it sounded and how she was just drawn into listening.

4yanx has made some valid comments regarding his concern for the AVIS treated records and the future. Who knows, maybe my records will degrade from this product. I don't know. But I do know that those difficult to quiet used LP's that I otherwise wouldn't play are now quiet and I'm happy. I've got so much software that re-cleaning everything I own isn't going to happen in this lifetime. I will use it on difficult to clean albums for sure and really don't have any reason to be concerned for the future.

My turntable is a Linn which uses a felt mat to decouple the vinyl and I've found that I can't improve upon it with any other kind of mat. I live in a dry environment so without some type of anti-static the record will lift the mat with it. That's a major pain in the ass. With the AIVS and it's inherent anti-static properties I no longer need to use Gruv Glide. So, for me it's a double win situation. I couldn't be happier. YMMV, there is more than one way to skin the audio cat and to each his own.

I've switched to Audio Intelligent Viny Solutions two step cleaning system. This stuff is really, really good. A big bonus is that it's more affordable than anything else except home brew. Great anti-static properties too.