Review: Porter Port AC Outlet Customized Hubbell 8300 Tweak


Category: Accessories

I continue to be an independent audiophile and have no association with any manufacturer or individuals whatsoever.

I believe all types of stereo equipment, including tweaks of all types, can be system-dependent. In addition, I also think audiophiles are capable of liking different products. Just because I prefer item A and you like item B does not mean one of us is wrong. We can agree to disagree over personal choices. My review is based upon listening results from my tube system and my solid state system.

Over the past several years, I’ve done an extensive amount of listening to my systems using the following outlets:
Wattgate 381 non-cryo’d / cryo’d, FIM non-cryo’d / cryo’d, PS Audio non-cryo’d, Furutech FP-2G non-cryo’d,
Acme Silver plated cryo’d, Leviton 8300 non-cryo’d / cryo’d, Hubbell 8300 non-cryo’d / cryo’d, Hubbell 5362 cryo’d, and the Porter Ports, a special order Hubbell 8300 that has no multi-layered bright nickel plating on the contacts and has the same higher impact resistance thermoplastic polyester face as the Hubbell 8300’s do.

I do very much like the Wattgate 381 and the Furutech FP-2G (both of them are gold plated). In my systems I prefer to save them for special occasions when I desire that special smooth sound for a specific component that requires it. By the way, I don’t recommending cryogenically treating anything that is gold or gold plated. I never heard an improvement. If anything, I’d say it degraded the sound a bit.

While I do hear vast amounts of improvement using all the other cryo’d outlets that I mentioned, I believe the Porter Port edged out all my other outlets. I believe it has something to do with the fact that the contacts are not nickel plated and the outlet is treated by a long computer-controlled cryo immersion as opposed to a long computer-controlled cryo vapor.

Here’s what I heard: All of the well-recorded CD’s I listened to (that I use for demo comparison purposes) sounded as if the volume had been turned up one or two clicks. There was more detail in the lows, mids and highs. I heard a sweeter timbre and background accompaniment. The sound was not harsh, and there is a wider and more dimensional soundstage with a deep, fast bass. There is a very black background that reveals the detail in a very positive manner, even when listening at very quiet levels.

When I received the Porter Ports, I was doubtful that I would hear any change compared to my other cryogenically treated outlets because of the AC power filtration systems that I am currently using. However, I was shocked and surprised by the performance of these outlets. I highly recommend the Porter Ports.

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Zaikesman,
YEP!
My system allows me to accomplish a set-up to do exactly that, compare one outlet to another, and another, and another etc.
I've compared *many* outlets and cryo'd outlets. Talk to Psychicanimal, he has been over to my place many times. In my opinion no Voodoo or mind games here, I know what I hear and what I like. People are allowed to have differences in opinion and what I like might not be another persons selection, but as we all know a system synergy can have a lot to do with it.
Best regards...
Zaikesman: Although I make use of fairly extensive power conditioning in my system, I have done no electrical upgrades or dedicated lines in my house. With respect to placebo, if you are running your entire system off one receptacle, it may (just may) be possible to argue that the placebo effect comes into play with receptacles. As the effects are cumulative, however, I will guarantee that you will hear a substantial improvement in the sound quality of your system by doing the following and incurring a very modest outlay.

I'm assuming you are running your system off between 2 and 5 standard duplexes. Purchase 2-5 stock Hubbell 5262's from an electrical supply house; your cost on this will be between $20 and $50. The 5262 is not a sub-standard outlet; in fact I would argue that, for reasons I won't go into here, it is the best outlet to cryo (along with the 15 amp version of Albert Porter's non-plated 8300) for any audiophile not having equipment with 20 amp male plugs. I'm assuming you have no equipment with 20 amp male plugs.

Replace all of the receptacles at once and you will hear an improvement akin to a major component upgrade. Even without dedicated lines, placebo will not be entering your mind. Your system will sound substantially better. This is with the receptacles fresh out of the box. They will fully break-in over a 4-5 week period and sound even better. You could then go back to your stock receptacles if you wanted. On the other hand, if you like what you then have, you could either 1) pop for cryoed units or 2) cryo the ones you have. I seem to recall you are in the northeastern States and my guess is that you could probably track down relatively easily a company to do the cryo for you at a modest expense (I recently had 3 power cords and two 15 foot runs of Kimber 8TC done for $30). The improvements you will get following the cryo and re-burn-in will approximate further the improvements you got going from the stock house receptacles to the standard Hubbells. They get substantially better with a proper cryo.

I simply offer this up as someone who messed around with about 5 different receptacles over the course of about 18 months. It was a time consuming, pain in the ass kind of experience, but it brought me much better sound. Cryoed Hubbell 5262/5362 or non plated 8200/8300 receptacles are, in my mind, the biggest bang for the buck in audio and absolutely necessary to realize the full potential of your system.

And if I'm wrong, you're out $20-$50 and can replace some worn out receptacles at your house. Good luck.
I would like to take the opportunity to thank you Lak for your time and effort on your outlet reviews past and present. Your reviews have been very helpful to me and I'm sure to many as well. I recently wired three outlets side by side into one housing. Wattgate 381, Acme silver cryod, and the Hubell 5362 cryod outlets. I pigtailed them together with 12 gage copper wires and have been very please with the results. I now use different outlets on my components, and able to really fine tune the soundstage and sonics further.

Thank you too Zaikesman, I have enjoyed many of your postings and threads. Let me know when you are ready to take the plunge, and I'll spring for your first cryod outlet.
Hdm: Believe it or not, everything is plugged into one outlet, via my API Power Wedge Ultra 116 which distributes the power from there. Audio Power recommends this as the best way to combat ground potential differences that can add to system noise, and I've had no problems along those lines doing things this way. Luke Manley does suggest that I should employ separate outlets with my VTL mono's for maximum dynamics, but only because he suspects that any PLC will limit current somewhat. API, on the other hand, claims no current-limiting for the 'amplifier' outlets on their product. Whatever - my hand is forced anyway, since the outlet I'm using is the only one within extension-less reach of my equipment rack for the time being.

Tubemiser: Thanks, but this is funny. I think I can recall that another member sometime within the past year or two also offered to send me an outlet free of charge. (I'm a little mortified to find I don't remember at this point who it was anymore, but we didn't wind up doing it anyway.) Hey, maybe if I start posting like I have my doubts about all kinds of stuff, folks will start offering to send me free amps and speakers too! ;^) Ahem: I'm in Home Depot all the time - maybe one day I'll even dig for my loose change and actually bring home an outlet...
Hi Zaikesman: I believe it was me that offered to send you an Arrow Hart 8200 I had kicking around. In any event, what I was getting at in my post with respect to the cumulative effect, and specifically now that I know how your system is configured is that to realize the true potential of a receptacle upgrade you are going to have to change out the receptacles in your API. My system is configured very much like yours with everything drawing off one receptacle at the wall. I use two Innouye line conditioners, one as a dedicated unit for my integrated amplifier, and the other feeding source components, both of these being plugged into the main outlet at the wall. I have, however, replaced all the receptacles in both line conditioners with cryoed Hubbell 5262's or 5362's (I actually have a vacant cryoed 8300 in the amp's conditioner which is not in use). So my advice above still stands and the recommendation is that you change the wall outlet, as well as any in use in the API; changing only the receptacle at the wall will give you only 40-50% of the improvement that changing them all will. I have stated here before that a) you cannot really evaluate any receptacle unless every component in your system is drawing from exactly the same receptacle and b) you will never realize the true potential of your system unless you are running top quality receptacles everywhere in your system, including line conditioners, power filters and power strips.