Greg:You are welcome. I really appreciate it when people take time to earnestly review pieces that I may be interested in purchasing. For instance, I have been scouring the web for any reviews of the Audio Technica ART1000 MC direct power cartridge to help me make an informed decision. Finally found a personal blog in which the gentleman did an excellent job describing the properties and sonic signature of the cartridge. His information has helped me immensely in my decision making process. I use these supplies from Parts Express (make sure you change the fuse to something other than the stock glass fuse and you may want to disable the internal fan) " http://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-ps26kx-power-supply-6-15-vdc-22a--120-548" |
Greg:
Concerning the form factor, yeah its not ideal but it is very functional and allows iFi to maintain the same casing thus saving us money as they don't have to tool up for a different design. I just simply place my unit behind other gear on the rack. I don't need to see it :)
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lewm:
Thank you for the compliment :)
I have been using the iTube in various ways since the first generation. When used as a true tube buffer, i.e. no gain, analog volume control disengaged no XBass or 3D all of which both work very well, the unit is truly transparent. With version 2 you can choose a SET, Classic or Push-Pull sound. I use the Classic. It does that weird thing where the tubes bring in the fluidity and continuousness as tubes can do so well. It does not (at least in Classic mode) give a tube-ee signature unless you want that, then one simply selects SET or PP mode.
It is akin to the finest tube gear where you lack all hardness which can be associated with some SS gear while not crossing over into that false lush tube sound. It is strange and hard to put in words but I am a stickler for neutrality NOT dryness or sterility or thinness. The iTube2 and the iPhono2 trip the night Fandango together :)
AMR owns iFi.
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lewm:
No problem with the questions. Obvious what may work in one system may not be right for another. I do have some great tube gear but the iPhono and iTube were both designed to be simpatico. I would at least try it. One fellow here took my advice and tried it and the email he sent me went something like "hooked iPhono 2 up to the iTube 2, mind #$%#$ blown".
Can't comment if Mr. Fremer likes it as much as his reference but I do recall he placed the 1st gen iPhono in his system and allowed some of his audiophile buddies to listen while thinking the reference stage was playing. He stated that not one of them discerned anything was amiss and thought the sound was great as always. Well the iTube 2 is far superior to the 1st gen. I would suggest you try the iTube 2 with it, you have 60 days to play with it if ordered from Music Direct.
The iPhono 2 is a 15v device so you never have to worry about over-voltage as 15v is the limit of the supply I use/recommend. Switch Mode Power Supplies are inherently self regulating. So the iPower power supply is regulated itself. the linear supply I suggested is also regulated.
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robelvick:
You are welcome, I am glad it was of help to you :) One other thing I failed to mention is that the iPhone 2 responds extremely well to vibrational treatments. I don't understand how something so low in weight can be so affected by what it sits on but I can easily hear it. |
bacobots1:
Thank you. Take a look about 3 posts up from you and you should see the link to the supply at partsexpress.
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glennewdick:
You ae welcome.
smrex13:
Wait until you put a linear on it. Get ready to be gobsmacked all over again.
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Elinor:
Ok, first and foremost your moniker is the name of an awesome car and if I could get past my obsession with air cooled 911's and my very special custom 944 Turbo I'd own that mustang :)
You are correct about people getting past the price. It is an exceptional device. Thoersten Loesche is no joke and thanks to Darren Conseulo of Avatar Acoustics for bringing this gear to the colonies. Darren has the best ear of any distributor/dealer I've ever met.., no joke. |
smrex13:
So what happens is that the coolness (like a type sterility) that SMPS's impart on the overall sound of systems is removed. I don't care how quiet (low ripple voltage) a SMPS may be, they always always dump high frequency hash back on the line. This has is shared aross the grounds(chassis) of your devices and infects them like a pathogen. Once you remove it, you will always be able to identify that sound. I remeber when I really wanted the Halcro DM10 or DM8, the minute I found out that thing had a SMPS, I was out.
When you start removing these supplies from your system or at the very least use a very long extension cord (which defeats the purpose of a high end PC) this high frequency garbage is removed. The power supply in your geat is NOT designed to be a ubiquitous flter. It does a good job but it is designed to pass a 60hz signal, not clean up higgh freq hash. If you have a toroidal transformer in your gear it is even worse becaus of the tighter coupling between primary and secondary/secondary's. I.E. transformer do a better job filtering out this noise due to the air gap in their construction.
I would say this, everything you hear right now.., multiply the goodness by 2 and you are starting to get a good idea of what the linear supply will do for you.
The sound becomes more relaxed and purer while simultaneous gaining impact. SMPS's are not in keeping with the best that high end audio has to off.
Years ago(say 1999) I was speaking with John Ulrich of Spectron (used to own the Spectron 1KW) about power supplies and he asked me what I thought about him placing a SMPS in his amps (it would save weight) and I told him it would kill the sound of amp. I sggested he not go that route. I am not saying I am the reason he chose to stick with a linear supply, just relaying a conversation I had :)
I hope that helps. |
bacobits1:
That will work. It may use a LM317 regulator which is not the best as it relates to noise. I am not sure if it uses that part but the description referred to a chip for the regualtion (if I recall the ad correctly) and the LM317 is ubquitous.
The net net is yes, it will work. |
smrex13":
I wrote:
"It does a good job but it is designed to pass a 60hz signal"
I meant to write:
"it is designed to handle a 60hz power line" |
I'm glad people are finding out how good the ifi combination really is. I'm a seriously hard guy to impress when it comes to audio be it digital, LP or even reel to reel which is not the pancea some would have us to believe.
hglaser: I used the tube switch on the iTube 2 in classic mode as well.
lewm:
Agreed :) |
I have to write that tonight while listening I was myself surprised that at a little over 500 hours this combination has taken another step towards better sound. I've noticed a more sonorous and substantive sound even more akin to my PH77, I'm not kidding when I say I'm a more than a little shocked that this thing is sounding even better.
i listened to the 45 of Jacintha Autumn Leaves, Tango Extreme, Mussorgsky-Ravel Pictures at an Exhibition Stravinsky the Firebird Suite The Philadelphia Orchestra - Riccardo Muti and currently as I type this I'm listening to My Funny Valentine - Ted Rosenthal Trio. All of this music is distinctly being rendered in a more convincing matter.
I'm surprised, that's the best I can put it right now. |
smrex13:
I am using a linear with the iTube 2 and it does make a big difference for the better. Much of the same benefits you get when a linear is used on the iPhono 2. I use my iTube in classic mode as a pure buffer, no gain, no 3D and no XBass.
PS68:
Yes, I have been using my London Reference with the iPhono 2. It sounds great. The Denon 103R also sounds awesome with the iPhono 2. For the Denon I have it set 330ohms and 60dB gain. |
lula:
I do. I don't allow switch more supplies in my audio chain or near my audio system. |
Correction: Switch "Mode" |
enginedr1960:
Congrats, I think you will like it. I continue to be surprised by that unit. My unit now had about 700 hours on it and it has taken another surprising jump. I have actually now taken the iTube 2 out of the chain as the iPhono 2 with 700 hours on it is better standing alone. Below 700 hours there was absolutely no question that it was far far superior with the iTube 2. I must admit that big of a change after 500 hours did surprise me. Some people may laugh at me but I am having a second arm added to one of my tables (Kuzma Airline), I've been planning this for a while. I am seriouosly thinking of simply running another iPhono 2 on that arm with my London Ref or a Koetsu Coralstone.
I do not believe that things need to be commensurate in price. The performance of that little box is spooky good and far better than a lot of much more expensive stages.
I would love to read about your findinds when you finish your comparison. |
lewm:
in in all fairness, I have t dumped my iTube 2 or my iTube. I don't think they make things sound "tubey" at all. At least not when run I classic mode for the I Tube 2 and in zero gain line level mode for the original iTube, which is how I ran them both. I think they offer a high input impedance low output impedance solution with an extremely transparent circuit (when again, run the way I prefer).
I used them because they have proven to be better than a lot of output stages I. Far more expensive gear be SS or tubed.
My my first experience was replacing my $16k MFA ref TVC with a resistor ladder array attenuator in conjunction with the 1st gen iTube. That combo sounded just a magical as the MFA Ref BUT it was more transparent.
The iTube 2 is even more transparent (again I ran it in classic mode bypassing the excellent volume control because I have an iCan Pro). It's just that once my iPhono 2 clocked 700 hours it didn't require the iTube 2 as the sound was now just as glorious and I could remove a set of interconnects. |
Correction:
Please forgive the typos. I wrote the previous post on my iPhone 5se. I intended to write "I haven't" in the first line of my response to lewms post. |
lewm:
no no harm no foul :) and in majority of cases I tend to agree with you. About 18 years ago I played with some of tube buffers from Musical Fidelity's XCan series if my memory serves. That did not last long as I found them a bit tubey for my taste. I also had the (don't know if you remember this product) Audio Magic Tubed Interconnect! That was a good product but at $3k, yikes.
The iTube 2 is literally like a Swiss Army Knife in that it does a lot of things very well, not that you would need or use all of them all of the time but when you need that one weird tool :) again much like a Swiss Army Knife it's there.
I do not keep equipment in my rack because it looks good or because it is impressive (status/cost); I only go by performance :)
In his case the iPhono 2's output stage is simply stellar and didn't require it's kiss'n cousin stablemate after 700 hours. |
Hi enginedr1960:
i have a very limited experience with S.U.T's. I have owned the Ortofon ST 80se and used that with my former Graaf GM70 phono stage as that unit was just too noisy to use the MC I out with the MC Anna. It was very a very good sounding system. I did try the ST80 into the mm I out of the 1st gen iPhono and while it was good, I thought the iPhono sans the stormer was more transparent and overall preferred the Anna running directly into the MC inputs of the iPhono.
Now there is is a very experience vinylphile that I know and trust very much, he loves the Hashimoto transformers and has told me that they (or at least the one he ordered) a good number of more expensive xformers including the units from Ypsilon. YMMV.
My take on this is if your phono stage allows you to bypass xformers, in most cases that may offer up the better sound BUT, it never hurts to try it and listen for yourself :) |
Raul, obviously you are writing about my tri-amped system. I'm a degreed elec engineer so I think I can write with some authority when I say the iPhono is 100% solid state. Concerning tubes and SS, they both can sound wonderful. My Acoustic Reality Thaumaturges are one of the finest amps I've ever heard and they are SS, but my Graafs (2x GM200 and a Modena) are flat out the finest sounding amplifiers I've ever heard. I believe you when you say tri-amping didn't work for you. It certainly works in my system far far better than any passive system I've heard. I designed the speakers and the crossover.
Different strokes for different folks :) |
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Mantis-toboggan
Correction: not "Mouset" but rather "Mouser". Also I meant to write should NOT cost more than a buck. |
Mantis-toboggan:
Thank you for the compliments regardlng the review. You will need a 5.5x2.1 mm barrel connector. You can find these at Dig-key, Amazon, Mouset, etc. should cost you more than about a buck.
you can try to find them with leads already soldered and then you simply make sure the outer barrel wire is connected to the "cold" of the power supply.
goto Amazin and search or "5.5/2.1 mm barrel connector" and you find 20" pigtails pre-soldered to the connector. A pack of 10 for $7.49 :)
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It takes 700 hours to fully run in. A $10k phono stage that I had for 2 weeks lost out to the iPhono stage. Not a big loss but $500 vs $10k ? I did like the cool factor of the pricier unit but it's the sound that matters to me.
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enginedr1960:
I'm very glad it's working out for you. It is going to get ridiculously better when you get about 700 hours on it. Also, if your LPS takes a fuse I highly suggest you try an AMR mk2 fuse. I think Tweek Geek is the new dealer for them.
I just had a $10k phono stage in house for 2 weeks, it was already run in but I put another ~40 hours on it using my 33k ohm dummy loads (home-made) and an attenuating reverse RIAAcable connected to an iPad.
It was very very close! At times I thought the new contender was the best. After two weeks irate was clear that I and my GF preferred the iPhono 2+LPS.
It it was a very very similar sound but the timing on the iPhono was better and it was incisive and connected to the music more intimately.
It definatley plays in the $10k range and up! |
enginedr1960:
You're welcome :) I may try the heat sink tip and listen for changes in the sound.
i once owned the Metrum Octave, that piece is really good. It beat my former $4k MSB Power Dac quite badly. Place an AMR fuse in that unit and be prepared to be shocked. I recall how big the differences was when I owned that unit and replaced the cheap glass fuse it come with. It lost out to my AMR do-777 SE but that's ok. That little Metrum hits far far above its price range and would embarrass a good number of so called great dacs. |
I will be writing a full review on the Amazon b- Lab phono stage. It is in the top 3 of phono preamps I've ever heard, surpassing many brands with far greater magazine reviewer love. The unit is a current injection type device meaning there is no need to set loading. Like the VDH Grail SB, BMC MCCI and a few others the current generating ability of your low resistance cartridge works its magic with this stage. It is a bit fuller sounding than the iPhono,but I give the bass to the iPhono 2. It is important to remember that I'm not using the iPhono stock, I use a regulated LPS.
As stated very very very close and this will easily come down to system balance and preference. The unit is hewn out of a solid block of aluminum and is stunning to behold. I may still buy one for my future Kuzma Airline. I plan to have it in my place again to re-evaluate. If you are looking for a statement piece I highly suggest you try this unit. |
I continue to be amazed by my iPhono 2. I've ordered a second Denon 103r. Sending the older 103r to Ana Mighty Sound to have the 103.3 modification performed. Malachite body, boron cantilever and micro ridge stylus. I want to compare a stock 103r to a fully modified 103r. I'll be using my iPhono 2 for this comparison. Will report my findings once I've done a throrough comparison.
The iPhono 2 and the 103r are magic together although it also sounds mighty fine with my London Reference in MM mode. |
mantis:
Yes, go with the 6.3a slow-blow and you want the smaller fuse. You should be good to go. |
Dangcaonguyen:
i assume youre query was dircted directed at me as I made that post. No, I do not mean bang-for-buck. I mean it has beaten every phono stage I've had it up against accept the AMR PH-77. The b-Lab as I stated came very very very close. They have a very similar sound and it was in the areas of timing and minutiae where I preferred the iPhono 2. As I stated and still believe, the b-Lab is awesome and I could easily see the choice being system dependent.
Ive stated this many times, the iPhono 2 really does need to be run-in for about 700 hours and to get the sound I'm getting, you need a good linear regulated supply, with a good fuse. If anyone out there can't hear the difference a fuse or power cord makes, I believe you can't hear the difference and I'm not interested in discussing it.
Now of course this is all my opinion. I really wanted the b-Lab, it is sooooo cool and it sounds so good, but at the end of the day the iPhono 2 was to my ears at least just this side of better.
some people will always equate price with how good something must sound or why something can't sound the way it obviously does. Mike Fremer knows how good the IPhono 2 is, and I respect his choice of the Ypsilon VPS-100.
My Sp10 MK3 NG is being picked up this wknd by Chris to be morphed into a one of a kind NGS and I'm adding a Kuzma Airline to the table along with the 4 Point. I'm shopping for another ref phonostage. I would use my AMR PH-77 as it is my favorite but even though it has 3 input sadly I can hear the delta between them and the direct input thus it does the duty for only one arm.
i can honestly state, that of all my friends tables I've not heard one system yet that I think could run away from my secondary analog front end which consists of the the Technics SL-1200GAE/iPhono 2(with Regulated LPS) and a Denon 103R or my London Reference.
you may like the iPhono 2 and then again it may be like chalk on a board to your ears, I've heard some really expensive phonostages and thought, meh... ymmv |
That shipping sounds nuts!!! I've ordered drivers for my speaker projects from Solen in Canada and I've not had crazy shipping prices like that. I'd check to make sure that's not a glitch. That sounds nuts. |
mantis:
I think you are starting to hear what that unit is capable of doing :) loading is critical with the iPhono. That AMR fuse is going to shock you all over again. Power supplies are incredibly important. When you think about you are modulating the power supply with the input signal in order to produce an output electrical representation of the music so it should be no surprise that the P.S. is monumentally important. I'm toying with building a tube regulated 15v supply to use with the iPhono just for fun/experimentation :)
Its only going to get better as you run it in. I broke mine in with a 33k ohm dummy load and an attenuating reverse RIAA interconnect being fed by an iPad playing amazon prime music selections on a loop.
I was not embellishing when when I early stated that I was literally in a state of disbelief as to how it transformed in character once run-in. The way you describe it with the LPS is very familiar to me and accurate in my opinion. |
I've been rethinking my experience with the b-Lab phonostage. I may try too audition that unit again. It is a current amplifiying phonostage and I tested it with a Denon 103r which has a rather high resistance for a MC cartridge at 40 ohms.
I may have done a disservice to that particular phono preamp. I'm going to try it again when I have a lower resistance MC on hand. My Anna is going back to Ortofon for a refresh while I await my NG to NGS build for the SP10 mk3.
I will post concerning this re-audition when all pieces are in place. |
mantis:
Thank you for the shout-out :) I have been busy with work, multiple projects and all.
Power in is just like akin to what we as humans consume, junk in, junk out. So the better the quality of your power supply the better the sound. I am a big proponent as you have probably figure out of linear supplies, I also am not fond of batteries. Batteries have a whole other set of issues.
Concerning the reverse RIAA cable, it came with my AMR PH77.1 :) AMR knows how to do it right. I am not keen on recommending you perform your burn in the way you are describing. For one thing you would need to be able to attenuate the signal coming from your playback device by probably somewhere around 72 dB (3981 times) assuming a standard output of 2v. This would yield around .5mv of output with would then be fed to the iPhono 2 (I am sure if I did my math incorrectly I'll hear about it :).
I would contact Jim Hagerman of Hagerman Tech, I think he makes an affordable reverse riaa burn-in device (actually I should probably buy one).
I will be starting another thread this weekend, I purchase a Reel to Reel about 3 months ago. It has been with Soren Wittrup being restored and having his magic touch performed on the playback electronics. I got it in last evening and after letting the settle for about 4 hours and degaussing it (after being moved) I powered it up and played my Patricia Barber Café Blue 15ips tape. I will save the details for the new thread but I will say this. NEVER HEARD ANYTHING LIKE IT!!!
So far beyond anything I have yet encountered. Unfortunately the SP10 MK3 was torn down already and left my home on its way to becoming a NGS the same day the Tascam 42 B-NB arrived.
I was hoping it was going to merely be a different sort of sound and that I could just sell it after playing with it for a few weeks/months because tapes are NOT cheap. Well, I am in trouble now even more so than when I got into turntables.
Stay tuned :)
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mantis:
I am gladd it seems to be working out for you.
Concerning the Pyrmids, I leave them powered up 24/7 as the iPhono draws almost no current hence no real power to speak of is being wasted. I also leave it powered up for the iCan Pro and mac-mini but I actually power the iCan Pro down when not in use as it does consume about 20 watts even when in full solid state mode and I put the mac-mini to sleep as those little things can be thirsty.
I have not so much as experienced a hiccup from any of my Pyramids and I have disabled the fan in all of them as I knew I would not be drawing any substantial amounts of current. I am not suggesting this to anyone, this was my choice as I monithored the current draw and found it negligible in my use cases. |
I intended to write:
"
after letting the electrolytics settle for about 4 hours and degaussing..," |
Correction, I am conflating my AMR CD77.1 with the PH77. There is no PH77.1. |
mantis:
So, thats a lot :)
I suppose if your recording device is sensitive enough capture the miniscule signal coming from your cartridge you could do what your attermpting. Just remember that most consumer level recording devices are looking for a line-in level of around .447volt(peak) -10dBV, which makes sense as it would most likely be recording from a consumer type device.
Those CD's you are referring to have been professionally prepared for this sort of task. I don't like the CD's because it your player does something atypical like skips on a scratch you are going to get a full level signal to the inputs of your phonostage having no passive attenuation in series to subdue the signal.
You are correct in that while the output electronics would be broken in for mm/mc simultaneously most likely if your ran-in the MM input for example the MC input would be left in the cold so to speak. The MC input in many phonostages is an additional amplificaion stage before the MM stage (i.e. Ypsilon's phono stage s a MM phono stage that makes use of SUT's to facilitate MC Cartridges).
I would not sugget th route you are attempting. Others may disagree with me and if they do I humbly invite them to chime in. ]
I hope this answered more questions than it may have created :) |
Sorry about the lack of commas in the preceding post. I need more coffee, was up way to late playing with the new tape machine. |
FYI, I don't believe it recommended to plug the thingees directly into the PS Audio power regenerators due to the capacitance. |
Mantis:
Funny, I was thinking of Blue Circle when I read your mention of that very company. I use there products, I think I have the thingee or whatever it is called, it is designed to clean up junk on the line from SMPS's. They really work, I met Gilbert here in Chicago a couple of years back at Axpona. He was performing a test where he had one of the Audio Prism Noise Sniffers (I bought one) plugged into an outlet with a lamp using a SMPS. The sniffer was howling, in went one of his thingees and dead silence. It was impressive but I asked him to follow me and I found another outlet which was out of his control, he was super gracious and accommodated my admittedly bold request. His device passed the smell test and I purchased it on the spot. It's been in my system doing duty every since. I've taken it to buddies homes and demonstrated its abilities. It really works and I've been planning to purchase more of them and also try his big filter.
i also use a PS Audio P5 with an AMR mk2 fuse installed. I just picked the P5 up this past Saturday. It is an amazing device and is far better than the 1st gen power plants of which I once owned (p300 and p600). They were good but they tilted the tonal balance of my system up in frequency. The P5 does not do this at all. I am running it at between 540 and a 620 watt draw.
The added noise on the MC side is most likely due to the fact that the gain is higher by (I forgot the MM gain level) what? Some 20 or more dB? So you are amplifying the noise on the line more so than when using the MM inputs which is prob around 40 dB. |
mantis:
No problem at all, I am glad you able to enjoy your music again :) |
I did read the whole thing. My point is any company can have a bad batch. A supplier can ship a bad batch of caps as has happened to some very prominent amplifier manufacturers, it is how they handle the the situation that counts. PS Audio had a horrible run with the former Power Plant Premiers but they handled it in great fashion. I don't recall anyone asking "do you still trust the manufacturer?". I would be one of the first to call out a manufacturer if they had failings and refused to stand behind their product. I don't see that in this case.
The iPhono 2 is (with a LPS) still one of the best phono stages I've heard regardless of price as it has dispatched some multi kilobuck units in my system. I just found it interesting that you decided to join this particular thread just to spread that link. |
Chakster:
How many is many people?
I had had my iPhono 2 buzz a little when it was too close to my PS Audio P5 but that was magnetic coupling in the cable and that was far far less than th coupling I've seen from former SUT's. I grant that the P5 was too close to the iPhono 2 being only one shelf away on my Bassocontinuo Accordeon rack, once place another rack space away, complete silence.
"Do you still trust the manufacturer?" This question seems loaded.
I have owned up until recently an ITube (1st gen), ITube 2, iPhono (1 gen), iPhono 2, iPurifier (1st gen), iPurifier 2, iUSB, iUSB 3.0, iOne, iDSD BL and a iCan PRO along with an AMR CD77.1, AMR PH 77 and an AMR DP 777 se. I just traded in a couple of no longer used iFi pieces on a PS Audio product. I have found their products beyond excellent or I wouldn't keep buying them. I had to have service on my PH 77 once and my CD 77.1. The PH 77 issue was firmware related and long after that product was out of production. I contacted AMR and described the glitch I was exeperiencing, much to my surprise 2 weeks later a package arrived with a .2 version of the firmware in eeprom form, problem solved. My CD 77.1 had been modified by the former distributor and was having an issue in one of the channels, again AMR handled it with no problem, substituting in the new Tri Core SE capacitors.
I would say they they have been one of the better companies and very solid much like the awesome folks over at PS Audio or Pass Labs.
These types of open ended questions can impune a companies integrity in the minds of people who know little about the company.
"When the warranty expired what would you do?", you ask. I would contact the company like I have many other entities in times past and see what options I have. Since I have personally had two products out of warranty (PH77 and CD77.1 (which was sold to me on this forum defective(the defect was not disclosed to me)) I know first hand they are first rate guys and will handle it expeditiously.
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Chakster:
I wanted to add add that if I came off as sounding a bit harsh, I apologize. Of course anyone is free to say what they please about any product and if in fact their is a real problem inside iFi or any other company which is not being addressed then I like anyone else would want to know. It was just the phrasing and the way it was presented that appeared (at least to me) that another agenda was afoot. If I misread you, I stand corrected. |
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I see. Most likely you are just hearing the low level noise inherent in most systems, could be at the amp level or component level. I seriously doubt a battery would do anything to get rid of what you are describing. |
James1969: I have never found a battery to be superior or on-par to the grid (unless you are using deep cycle marine batteries on some devices like turntables), you lose dynamics in a lot of cases. In the case of my former MSB Power Dac Gold the batteries sounded identical to the wall. If you are experiencing noise, can you determine if it is a 60hz hum? Fluorescent lighting in the area can be an issue as well as dimmers. I wold make sure the tone arm cable to the iPhono is at right angles to power cords if it is in close vicinity to any power cords, also make sure the tone arm cable is not near any transformers like power supplies of neighboring equipment. It will sound like a steady buzz as the 60hz power signal in the transformer will couple to the tonearm cables and get amplified along wit your musical signal. EM coupling is very real. Disconnect the tonearm cables from the input of the iPhono, (make sure you mute your preamp or select a different input) after the cable is disconnected unmute or go back to phono input, do you still hear the noise. If yes, the issue may be a ground loop, if not it is most likely EM coupling. I use a magnetometer, actually there are iPhone magnetometer apps which use its built in ability sense magnetic fields, so for what? $0.99 you have a magnetometer :) I actually use the app. I use the PS26KX with an AMR mk2 fuse installed. I actually use 3 of them plugged into my PS Audio P10. Yes yes they are regulated but the P10 also does some filtering and a better sine wave in the beginning makes for a better rectified d.c. current. --------- https://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-ps26kx-power-supply-6-15-vdc-22a--120-548--------- Hope this helps. |
