Repair your Cambridge Audio 840E volume contol issues


Many people with Cambridge Audio 840E (and I think 840A) preamps have reported strange volume behavior where the volume levels will suddenly change. Recall that these are the pre-amps with the relay controlled discrete resistor ladders and the Terrapin modules. There has been a lot of speculation posted on the web as to the root cause for this problem, including bad relays and bad volume knob encoders. Cambridge has since changed the design, removing the relays altogether and replacing them with solid state switches. Some, like myself, believe this is a step backward and would like to find a solution to the original faults with the discrete relays.

I own an early version of the 840E that was sent back to CA for re-work. Their service department added a separate relay board (containing the 28 relay array) with Omron G5V1 relays instead of the Massuse ME-3 relays that originally came from the factory. I was assured by Cambridge Service that the new relays cured the problem, but a few years later my volume control issues returned. I purchased a replacement set of Omron relays and replaced the Omrons supplied by service, and this did the trick for another 4 years or so. When looking into the specs on the G5V1, I found a most unusual disclaimer by the manufacturer:

"• Long-term Continuously ON Contacts

Using the Relay in a circuit where the Relay will be ON
continuously for long periods (without switching) can lead to
unstable contacts, because the heat generated by the coil itself
will affect the insulation, causing a film to develop on the contact
surfaces. Be sure to use a fail-safe circuit design that provides
protection against contact failure or coil burnout."

So what Omron is saying is that these were never designed for continuous use, as one might have in a volume control left at the same volume level for long periods of time. Further, it appears heat and high temperatures are at the root cause of the issue. If you look at the relay array for the volume control, the Cambridge design has these relays mounted as close together (side by side in two rows) as they can fit, and the center relays can get very hot. Due to the design of the volume ladder, not all relays are on at any one volume setting. There are also volume settings where the power generated by the relay array is maximum. From a document sent to me by Cambridge audio, it show that the current drawn by the relay array is a maximum of 271 mA at -32 dB, but drops to 131 mA at -30dB and 178 mA and -38 dB. The -32 dB area is where I see my volume instabilities, so it appears it may be related to power generation (and high temperatures) in the center mounted relays in the array. There are also high current levels at -16 dB and -8 dB (271mA) and -4, -2 dB. Of course, with the volume up above -8 dB, volume jumps to 0 dB are much less noticable when they occur.

So what can be done?

I was told by CA that the Omron replacement was the only one available. Turns out not to be true. I have found that Fujitsu makes a better relay that is plug and play replacement (SY-9W-K) for both the Omron and the Massuse relays. The Fujitsu relay has two contact options as well, one of which is much better for the ladder network. Let me explain. In the Omron spec sheet for the G5V1, there is a MINIMUM current rating of at least 1 mA. That means the circuit must flow a minimum of 1 mA to keep the contact resistance stable. Another condition violated by Cambridge Audio Engineering. The Massuse ME-3 is similar. The Fujitsu, however, has two contact configurations, one at 1 mA minimum and the second at 0.1 mA. The latter is more suitable of low current audio use. I believe the contact material (Pd/Ag under Au) is better as well. Finally, the Fujitsu relays are Japanese made whereas the Omron and Massuse are Chinese made. The Fujitsu relays have no continuous duty disclaimer in the spec sheet like Omron has.

Besides relay replacement, it is wise to do everything you can to keep internal temps down. I have my upper cover mounted on 1/4" stand offs to allow air to circulate inside the pre-amp. Mine is an early version without the vents. I have also mounted small aluminum heat sinks on the relay arrays to re-distribute the heat generated in the center units and lower their temperature.

Hope this post helps some of you who like the 840E and do not want to trash an otherwise fine sounding piece of gear due to the irritating volume control issues.
dhl93449

Showing 3 responses by rickysnit

I own one of these, and all volume issues were solved by the spacer modification mentioned to the lid allowing heat to escape.

I have the Omron 'patch' and I would experience volume fine at one db level, next one up ~+10db in right channel, next click fine, next +10db etc. It's like betting on 'odd' in roulette. One day I even had one channel out, fixed by advancing to the next click on the ladder.

I'm convinced this is purely a heat issue - that is until I run into issues from the relays being in the 'on' position for extended periods - if that is an issue, hasn't happened to me.

But can report all has been remedied with spacers, and flawless operation since.

How could Cambridge Audio overlook this obvious engineering factor? To go through the trouble of such an elaborate volume setup; terrapins! Only not to factor how hot the thing gets with the transistors and heat sink - like a toaster oven on 'keep warm' setting?

These blokes also work at Jag?

And make sure it's TIGHT! with foam tape around the opening of case of the lid - ensuring heat retention. It's asinine.

I took 5mm in height rubber grommets, put a tiny dab of super glue and affix to the underside of the lid to hold in place. I then had to upgrade the screws to a longer M3 - M3 12mm to be exact and fastened the lid on, leaving about a 3-4mm reveal all the way around.

Does it look perfect? no, Does it look bad? no, is the fix smarter than terrapin? maybe.

100% reversible, 100% no longer a pizza oven, and most importantly volume perfect. It might be placebo, but it might even sound better..

Tip for readers/owners of the unit, it's a must-do mod I think.

One last quick point, I was also surprised by the heat on the volume ladder relays themselves when first opening the heatbox after hours of use - to the touch. The transistor heat sink one couldn't touch it was so hot - again, incredible this was designed in an enclosed case.

I am considering purchasing a couple of computer M2 drive (or similar) heat sinks to lay atop the relays themselves for even more cooling. This preamp seems to share a lot with an ordinary computer, and seems CA didn't really have that mindset.

So I thought I got it with the heat mod posted above - no, issues persist. I too replaced the relays the OP DHL suggested - Fujitsu SW-9-W-K, all 28 of them. I just desoldered the old and put in new, no sockets. The job was easy enough, took a little bit of time but problem completely gone - in fact, these Fujitsu are faster and quieter, Japanese made v. Chinese and I think it's set.

Side note, I started replacing some caps while in there - and what do you know, more cheap parts.. The main filter caps were just cooked, and the others majority non-polar appear very low grade, but odd in physical size, one has to be creative to replace and I wasn't able to get them all. The main filter caps were starting to bulge on mine, those are probably a must do maintenance item.

Nice work DHL for posting these fixes.