Re-wired to 30 amps?

Mitch, check your local codes. Typical residential circuits are 15 and 20-amp for general power and lighting. Almost everywhere I know of you are not permitted to have more than one receptacle on a circuit rated greater than 20-amps. Not only that, a 30-amp branch circuit requires a 30-amp receptacle. Your conventional power cord plugs rated at 15 and 20 amp will not fit in a 30-amp receptacle.

No matter how power hungry your equipment is, they are all UL listed. This means that they are safe to operate in conventional 15 and 20-amp straight blade receptacles. And safety entails operation at peak performance.

Remember, the rating of a circuit is to protect it from overheating to the point of creating a fire hazard. Increasing wire size for a given current draw only reduces the voltage drop along the path. By going from a 20-amp #12 wire to a 30-amp #10 wire, the voltage drop only decreases by 0.024-volts per foot. Even if you have a 100-foot run, thats a 2.5-volt drop to the outlet; something a well designed power supply can handle with no problem. All day long.

Speakerdude, I disagree; probably many insurance adjusters will also. It is not a good idea to run a 30-amp circuit regardless of any potential sonic improvements. It goes against electrical codes and for good reason. The limiting factor here is the rating of the receptacle - the 20A straight-blades (both slots up/down) cannot safely handle more than 20-amps continuous. If a fault occurs in the outlet box and the circuit starts drawing a continuous 27 or 28 amps, say, the required 20-A circuit breaker will clear the fault by tripping. An electrician can then determine what happened. If you have the 30-A breaker, it will happily let the excess current through and the mounting strap on the 20-A outlet, the plug and cord will heat up and possibly fail. This is a fire in the making.

The purpose of a circuit breaker is to protect the wire, period. It will not protect the outlet or your equipment. If all of your equipment draw more than 16-amps combined, then they need to be on multiple circuits because you will keep tripping the breaker. If one piece of equipment draws more than 20-amps, then something's wrong because the plug, cord and the transformer primary fuses are rated for a 20-amp (max) circuit. Hence the UL rating.

So if you go for #10 or #8 wiring (or even 500MCM for that matter) there might be benefits based upon your situation. However, your equipment will still draw only what's needed regardless of how much extra fat you have on the wires. But the circuit breaker has to prevent excess current from shooting through via faults or shorts. It's a safety thing, that's all.