Quick fuse question


Hello guys. I have a quick fuse question. I have a ARC D200 amp that uses a MDQ5A fuse.The MDQ is a dual element fuse. I have purchased some Aucharm fuses for my pre and phono stage and they sound great. What would be the replace size for the MDQ5A fuse? I put in a standard 5Afuse and the amp ate it for lunch. Thanks for your time and effort guys.
mktracy

Showing 9 responses by rodman99999

Appears: you’ve got things covered, mktracy.     Nice gear!      I really enjoyed my ARC pieces, back when.      Just ignore anything The Wonder From Down Under posts (OCD/mental constipation/digital diarrhea).
I get it, mktracy.     Like I said; peace of mind is important.     Since you’re able to discern the differences fuses make in your other gear: have you experimented with upgraded interconnects and power cords?     There’s aural gold in those, depending on your choices, without risk of damage.         Your welcome and ENJOY YOUR TUNES (all that matters)!
Got it (I thought the Bussman came out of another component).     If I’m not mistaken; the Silver Star’s been discontinued, though some dealers still have a limited inventory, on sale.    I had used the Classic Gold, for years and liked them.      Skipped the Silver, when the Supreme came out.
I'd try an AMR 5A, Slow-Blow and see if it holds.      The 5A Bussman may have been old and compromised/weak, from however long it had been in use, prior.       If a 5A AMR won't hold, through a normal start-up; your amp won't hurt itself with a 6.3A.           If that holds and lasts a while, go for a HI-FI Tuning Supreme.     They make both 5A and 6.3A (you may already know).      I like 'em!
mktracy-    Was the Bussman 5A a dual-element?     If a single wire, twisted around a small rod, it was a Slo-Blo.        There’s a difference in time and function, between those two designs (see, "Selection Considerations" and, "Fuse Characteristics Curves and Charts", page 6 and on, in the link below).     If a higher value seems too great a gamble, but- the only recourse (far as an upgraded fuse); that stock dual-element must remain.                 Peace of mind’s important! https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/electrical/application-notes/powr-gard-technical-application-guide....
OK! Those fuses are made in China.     Even the high-Dollar, high-end (or whatever one deems them) fuses, from HI-FI and Synergistic (not certain about any others) will typically require a slightly higher rating, than stock.     Don’t ask me why!     That’s their recommendation.     It’s what I’ve encountered and have had no issues, with the (slightly) higher rated fuses.     You could try a 6A (a 20% increase).     I suppose: some would call it gambling.                     Then again: those from China are relatively cheap.    Try a few more of their 5A fuses, first.    Your original may have been a lemon.
Did you try it again, with the original fuse?    I just downloaded the manual.   Not really familiar, with your amp.                OK! I’m guessing that you mean the, "protect" LED lit, during the amp’s start-up, then the fuse blew.       Did the protection LED seem to be lit any longer than it normally would?      I ask, because a fuse wouldn't cause that.
Was the fuse you tried Slow-Blow or Time-Delay?      I ask because: a Fast-Acting, 5A fuse likely wouldn’t last, in the place of an MDQ (Time-Delay) 5A.