Quality of outlet not directly powering equipment important?


My new room that I have dedicated to music Has 5 outlets. They are all daisy chained around the perimeter of the room. They share nothing else on the circuit.  From left to right of the room, the power goes from 1-5.   The system is powered by outlet 4, which is an SR black.  The house was built with very poor outlets, the kind that literaly bite down on the wire using a hole for insertion and a quick release tab, not even screw down terminals.  

Upon seeing these POS outlets, which are in my "chain", I replaced outlets 1-3 with my collection of audiophile grade outlets. 1, with a wattgate 381 silver cryo, 2, with a teslaplex SE, And  3 with a furutech gtx-d (r).  I did this to at least have high quality links for the Romex to feed the SR BLACK (4).   I would assume that even with this "mix" of outlets in the chain, they must certainly be better than the absolute garbage outlets that were links in my electrical circuit.  I would imagine less voltage drop at the very least.
 
Now, outlet 5 remains a contractor POS outlet. Its technically past the system, but being that this AC, and not DC, wouldn't it technically also be part of the AC chain feeding the stereo? Would it behoove me to change that one out even though it's past the stereo and not before the stereo?
audiolover718

Showing 2 responses by auxinput

Based on my R&D with outlets and power cord connectors, I am going to theorize that outlets #1 and #2 are going to have very little (if any at all) influence on the sound. You have a GTX-D Rhodium for outlet #3, which will really clean up the voltage a lot before it gets to #4 SR BLACK. I would make sure that outlets #1 and #2 are definitely high-current capable (at least something like 20 Amp Hubbell hospital grade outlets). Having your Wattgate and Tesaplex as outlets #1 and #2 are not going to hurt anything for sure. But if you have somewhere else you need them, I would say they can be replaced by Hubbell hospital grade.

For the power, I'd suggest cryo'd 10awg romex.  You can get this from either Audio Sensibility or VH Audio.  It's pretty much $3/foot.  I would setup 20 amp circuits instead.  If you got the money, go for Furutech rhodium outlets (or equivalent).  Hubbell hospital grade outlets are good for high-current, but they do have their own sonic signature, which can be forward and solid-state/sterile.

For in-wall speaker, I don't know.  By code, it has to be CL rated, so you're pretty limited.  I dunno, Audioquest FLX?  You'll be able to get a better speaker cable if you just run it inside the room.