Antiskate is adjusted by a hanging weight. If you don't have this item you can make one from a piece of shiny/finished thread (-w- a loop @ one end and a weight of your choice secured @ the other end). The weight should be approx. 5 grams, which is what a nickel weighs, and it should clear the TT plinth.
Hopefully you do have the two posts that serve to anchor/adjust the line/weight. Set the antiskating by ear.
Balancing the arm is standard, just set the plastic ring to "0" when this is accomplished. The graduations are fairly accurate on mine, but it would not hurt to use a VTF scale as well just in case it's off.
My TD165 is in storage right now, but from memory VTA (arm height) adjustment is a single allen screw located @ the back of the black plastic ring. If you fiddle with it be very careful as it is easy to strip the threads. I set VTA to thick LP stock and then added a DIY wool felt platter mat to raise/shim up thinner LP's. As I have a lot of old/thick LP's this seemed to be the best bet. Can't recall the size of the wrench, but it was on my ring of metric allen's.
You might also remove the bottom cheese board plate (for better sound). When this is done the stock footers do not provide enough clearance (I shimmed the stock feet with rubber sink washers).
While you are @ it remove the sub platter (a single screw on the bottom that also holds a ground wire is what retains the sub platter), clean out the bearing and refill it with Singer sewing machine oil. When under there use tape to secure/damp the transit spring assemblies (otherwise they will vibrate when not engaged).
The plinth should be level and have a fairly quick vertical bounce. If this is not the case then you will have to adjust two of the three suspension screws to obtain such. Leave the screw with blue paint, or paint on it, alone - this is visible from the bottom and work with the other two.
Hopefully you do have the two posts that serve to anchor/adjust the line/weight. Set the antiskating by ear.
Balancing the arm is standard, just set the plastic ring to "0" when this is accomplished. The graduations are fairly accurate on mine, but it would not hurt to use a VTF scale as well just in case it's off.
My TD165 is in storage right now, but from memory VTA (arm height) adjustment is a single allen screw located @ the back of the black plastic ring. If you fiddle with it be very careful as it is easy to strip the threads. I set VTA to thick LP stock and then added a DIY wool felt platter mat to raise/shim up thinner LP's. As I have a lot of old/thick LP's this seemed to be the best bet. Can't recall the size of the wrench, but it was on my ring of metric allen's.
You might also remove the bottom cheese board plate (for better sound). When this is done the stock footers do not provide enough clearance (I shimmed the stock feet with rubber sink washers).
While you are @ it remove the sub platter (a single screw on the bottom that also holds a ground wire is what retains the sub platter), clean out the bearing and refill it with Singer sewing machine oil. When under there use tape to secure/damp the transit spring assemblies (otherwise they will vibrate when not engaged).
The plinth should be level and have a fairly quick vertical bounce. If this is not the case then you will have to adjust two of the three suspension screws to obtain such. Leave the screw with blue paint, or paint on it, alone - this is visible from the bottom and work with the other two.
