I would contact the manufacturer first via email. See what they say and if its something a local guy can fix then you won’t have to ship it to WA. One step at a time. |
Just sent an inquiry via Primare "contact us" website. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Agreed- mewsickbuff- consult Primare first. Keep us posted on your progress. Happy Listening! |
I contacted the Primare manufacturer and they referred me to the guys in WA, but also supplied (when I requested) the A32 service manual and schematics for a local repair shop to use. Great customer service, I'd say. I also found one of my speaker wires (Audience Au24se) has gone bad. Contacted Audience and they have a lifetime warranty and will repair the cable. 2 great companies.
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Were you able to get it fixed?
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Not yet. I plan to send it to the guys in WA sometime within the
next 2 weeks. Nothing like experienced repair personnel recommended by the manufacturer . It's all boxed and ready to go. I'll post when it returns and my experience with the repaired product.
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Looking forward to your thoughts/impressions- mewsickbuff.
Happy Listening! |
If you had a bad speaker wire, was that not the problem? It sounds like out of coincidence both the speaker wire and amp were bad unless constantly needing to adjust the speaker wire broke the cables? |
jetter,
You're probably spot on about manipulating the speaker wire resulting in its breaking. Sometimes I manipulated it at the speaker end and other times at the amp end. For a while I was afraid my MA Gold 300 left speaker was a lemon. But Audience sent my cables back (looks like a new pair). I've reconnected the cables, speakers and amp (Onkyo until the Primare gets repaired) and both speakers play without flaw and sound pretty fantastic.
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Great to hear. Enjoy. Audience having a lifetime warranty, not unlike the long Bryston and Odyssey warranties is so nice. You don't think much about it until something happens. And these companies seem to put "honor" in honoring their warranties if the word of mouth is accurate.
George |
OK just to let you know I have the same unit with the same problem. I am in touch with the folks in WA and they mentioned that there is an internal fuse which may have blown. If you look in the service manual you'll see where it tells you how to get the error code. If it is a blown fuse then it should be a relatively simple repair. FYI when I saw the rates to ship and insure the unit from the east coast to WA my head exploded. Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.
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martyfriedman, I haven’t priced shipping and insurance. Though it’s not funny I had to laugh when you said "my head exploded." I suppose when I do look into it I won’t be laughing anymore. This beast (boxed for shipment) weighs somewhere around 95 pounds. I plan to have UPS pick it up at my house. As stated earlier Primare supplied a service manual and schematics. I’ve taken a look at them both, but I’m not electronics savvy. I understand maybe 2% of the manual and 0% of the schematics. In my case it would be best if I don’t look for an internal fuse or try to find an "error code." For me, the best route is still to ship it and let the experts fix it. I hope it is something simple. But thanks for the info. Are you planning to DIY? If you do, let me know how it turns out. Best of luck.
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Well I have a local guy who I have decided is competent to repair the unit, but he can't look at it for a few weeks. I have to say it would kill me to find that the problem is only a blown fuse. I have had this problem before with an admittedly cheaper amplifier and the fuse was quite obvious once I opened up the unit. I don't see what harm there could be to simply open the unit and look - power is off of course (for a few hours). And if I see a blown fuse, remove it, replace it, put the cover back on, and try it then, what harm?
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One last thing, just fyi. There is an external fuse right above the power connector. You can pry the little plastic cover off and the fuse pops out. This is very simple to do. It is unlikely that this is the problem since power is getting to the unit. But you never know and this can be checked without opening the case.
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I've already checked the back fuse and it looks good. So you're saying you're going to open your unit to check your inner fuse before the local repair guy looks at it?
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Okay, I got curious and opened my amp. There's a fuse on the bottom panel near the back. It's fine. BUT there are also 4 other fuses! 2 mounted on the left and right front wall panels. And guess what? 1 is blown. Problem. Hopefully someone here can help me out. The number engraved on all 4 fuses is F6.3AL250VP. I've looked around on the internet and seen fuses that end in 250V but none with 250VP. Can someone tell me the difference between VP and V (and please dummy it down to simple language)? Also, where can I find a VP fuse or is it safe to just use the 250V? The manual says replace the exact same fuse.
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This is great. I have not yet opened mine but it looks like we are making progress. I googled 250VP and saw something about 'pulsating' current. There were some for sale. I am thinking - take it to an electrical supply house and have them match it up. Good job sir, you have made my day!
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Guys
Why don't you just order the fuses from Vana/Primare dist.
it would be quicker and you would be insured its correct.
a Voltmeter 26 buks at Harbor Freight
ohms scale/Tone Beep checks the fuses instead of looking.
Good Luck
JohnnyR
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gentlemen, I am a Mrs. not a sir (not that you could have know). But audioconnection, I did email Primare at sales@vanaltd.com. I asked if they have fuses for sale. I am waiting on a response. Thanks for the suggestion. I just hope when all is said and done, the fuse is the only thing that needs attention. I’ll just add the Primare A32 is some kind of beast with it’s cover off!
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mewsickbuff, sorry to get that wrong.
Anyway can you tell me what kind of screwdriver bit you used to remove those tiny screws that appear to be holding the cover on? Did you have to remove all of those tiny screws on the top and sides as well as the somewhat larger ones on the bottom? Thanks.
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No problem, martyfriedman. The bit I used was a 6 point star. I have 6 bits in my set (all without center holes) and I used the smallest one. I only removed the tiny screws on the top and sides. No large screws. The cover just lifted off.
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Greetings Mewsickbuff
Thanks for the correction.
How bout in the meantime you remove the culprit fuse and install a 5 amp Fast Blow its close enough to protect and if it gives your channel back your saved from shipping until Vana gets you the correct units.
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Good day all. I received a reply back from Vana after inquiring about the specific fuse I removed. They say they'll sell a dozen for $3.60 + shipping. Sounds like a bargain to me. I've asked for an invoice. Waiting for a response. Audioconnection, can I purchase the 5 amp Fast Blow fuse from Radio Shack or a major hardware store?
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audioconnection, I want to say a BIG THANKS for your recommendation to install a 5 amp fast blow fuse. IT WORKED & my amp is back up and running!!! One exception, I installed a 6 amp fuse instead (purchased from a major hardware store-4 for $8). I still have a dozen Primare custom fuses coming from VANA ($16 with shipping added) for future mishaps. But the expert repair folks at Audio Elite said in an email that the A32 is highly reliable. So hopefully I'll have years (decades) of trouble-free listening ahead. Thanks for everyone's suggestions!!! You guys saved me a ton of money!!! Martyfriedman, DIY and save a ton of money, too. Best of luck.
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mewsickbuff, I am so happy for you. Great job. I have to get the proper screwdriver and waiting for my bit set to come in from Amazon. Then, off to the races. Thanks for paving the way. Happy listening!
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Thanks! for sharing- mewsickbuff
it is refreshing to read about a Lady posting in these threads.
What other gear, including cables, is in your system?
Happy Listening!
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@martyfriedman, I love Amazon. Once your tools arrive, repairs will be easy breezy. @jafant , I hang out here, headfi and computer audiophile. I've learned a lot from all 3 sites. Here's my system:
1. JRiver Media Center 22 on PC
2. WyWires Silver USB cable
3. Calyx Femto DAC
4. Violectric XLR interconnect to
5. Primare Pre32 preamp
6. Violectric XLR interconnect to
7. Primare A32 power amp
8. Audience Au24se speaker cables to
9. Monitor Audio Gold 300 floorstanders
10. SVS PC-2000 subwoofer (no special cable)
11. PS Audio 5 Powerplant runs my computer, DAC and preamp.
That's my little system and, thank you, I'm more than happy with it. I have no desire for any changes in the next decade or 2 or 3 (unless something goes out).
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Awesome
we had the same protective fuse
open when speaker wires touched
by accident.
it now looks like your speaker wire is fixed and it's water under the bridge.
Happy Listening
Johnny R
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Very nice! mewsickbuff
Happy Listening!
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Thanks everyone! martyfriedman, keep us in the loop about your repair.
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mewsickbuff-
our hobby can certainly welcome more Ladies like yourself.
Happy Listening!
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Thanks for the warm reception. The last mechanical tinkering I did was when I was around 8 years old. I'd gotten a portable reel to reel for Christmas
(giving my age away now). I recorded my first song (self-written) and one day became curious how the thing worked. I opened it up, and of course couldn't put it back together. I've never tried to repair anything electronic since. But with encouragement from everyone who replied to my inquiry, I opened up my amp and thank God it was a simple fix. I've always loved music. I had a transistor radio back in the day and got my first "record player" when I was 12. It had a lid & handle making it portable; and of course the metal spindle & arm that allowed 4 or 5 records to be stacked on it. When the prior record finished playing another would drop and play. With it I got a 45 record from the soundtrack "My Fair Lady" with "Get Me to the Church On Time" and "On the Street Where You Live." Somewhere along life's way I lost them both. But I still have the LP Vinyl of "Merry Christmas the Supremes" that I also got that Christmas and there are no scratches (well, none that skip)! It's still one of my favorite Christmas albums and I listen to it year round. How did you guys get into this hobby?
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OK mewsickbuff, I am a few steps behind you.
I received my star bits and the T8 worked fine. Opened her up and found, drum roll please, a blown fuse!
The only difference is that my fuses are marked
T6.3AL250V. I am baffled by this, as these appear to be slow blow types. That doesn't make sense.
I am sending off a message to our Primare friends to get the scoop. Sure I can replace these with the same number but I want to be super sure. Maybe the previous owner put these in.
I checked two of the four fuses and they are both
T6.3AL250V.
I will keep everybody updated.
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The plot thickens.
I took all four fuses out and they are T6.3AL250V.
However, on the board where the fuse mounts are, the marking "F6.3 AL" appear. I would say that at some time somebody incorrectly replaced these fuses with slow blow.
Let's see what Vana says. It seems to me that it could not hurt to put in the fast blow. The only negative would be that it would blow too quickly.
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I received my VANA fuses yesterday and the package says "6.3A Fast Acting." I'm not going to reopen my amp to put one in. I'm going to stick with the 6 amp fuse (which is a fast blow) I put in from the hardware store. When & if any others blow, I'll have the manufacturer's fuses as replacements. Until that day, I'm going to sit back and enjoy the music. Glad to hear you're making progress.
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Here's the reply from Audio Elite in Seattle, the authorized service place:
You are correct about the silkscreening but Primare had customers(and salesmen) who were very enthusiastic with the volume control and kept blowing them so they switched to T type fuses.
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Funny! I didn't mention it earlier, but that's how I blew mine. Switched from listening to a quiet song, forgot to turn the volume back down, the next song blasted my ears off for a few seconds. Played another song or 2 then turned it off because I couldn't get sound from the left speaker. Next time I fired it up...rapid flashing front panel light. Interesting they changed to a slow acting fuse. Doesn't that run the risk of damaging something? Isn't the fast acting fuse protective for something? Weird VANA would send me fast acting fuses, while the repair guys are recommending slow acting. Oh, well, I'll be a lot more attentive with that volume control :)
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Doesn't that run the risk of damaging something?
Yes that is what concerns me and so I am going to go back to the fast blow types for now. Hopefully when my fuse blew nothing got damaged.
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I'm sticking with fast acting because that's the way the manufacturer designed it. I'm sure your amp will be back up to speed as soon as you install new fuses. Keep us updated.
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All is working now. Thanks for your support!
Now I need to reconfigure and upgrade the rest of my system.
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No problem and have fun with the reconfiguration & future upgrades!
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Hi all,
I have a Primare A30.2 power amp.
A week ago I had the same issue, the front standby led kept flashing when powered on.
After reading this status I bought a bit T8 and did open up the cover.
Indeed one of the 3 fuses was blown.
Accordingly I bought the new fuse 6,3A 250V and replaced it.
The problem was just over.
And I am very happy now.
Thank you you all for sharing this issue.
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tuhtu64
Thanks! for sharing and keeping this thread alive.
Happy Listening!
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Hi all, I am a new Primare A32 owner, and I have some challenges witht flashing light and even lost power, respectively punch in the bass.
I drive some nice elac 507 which can handle the power, and my cables are naim nac a5, which should be fine.
After two weeks, i kind of had the feeling that bass was slowly going away. Normally u had to reduce the bass in my streamer, but it was not needed any more, i could even increase the bass, but the punch was not impressive. Some day later flashing light. When i opened it, all 4 fuses wirh the 6,3A were burned.
I replaced them, everything was fine. Now 5 days later i am again missing punch. Now when i switch on the amp, the light flashes for 30-60 seconds, but then it goes on and works, just punch in the bass is missing.
Its also confusing, that in standby the light is off. In the past it was always light green.
Any idea in this round?
i am especially confused by the power reduction does the amp has any safe mode, where he can reduce the power which is send to the speaker once he recognises any problems? |
