@mijostyn,
No arguments that maintaining cleanliness is critical, but I have found as I stated in the paper that even new records benefit from initial cleaning, the pressing plants are not clean. Maintaining cleanliness is addressed in Section VI, what other items should have been addressed? One of the problems is that some 'practices' are doing more harm than good. I now no longer use any brushes, just a quick visual+UV, and if necessary a swipe with the microfiber anti-static cloth to dust away lint/particulate, and my records now play better - but that is my experience.
Neil |
@robjordan,
Rob,
Dehypon LS54 is a just a pure nonionic surfactant, and relatively mild. For pre-clean you want a more aggressive cleaner. See what is written Table II. A top quality liquid, machine clothes detergent that is not colored (no dyes), unscented (no fragrance) and contains no anti-bacterial agents can be a very effective pre-cleaner, but you want to buy the best you can get since the cheaper versions have a lot of fillers and other junk. Prepare as specified Chapter III - there is a specific section of III.AU/EU/UK Prepare the CLEANER Spray (or Wash) Bottles:
Good Luck,
Neil
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@robjordan,
Rob,
The Ecover Zero Non Bio is a good product. I was able to locate this SDS Ecover-Laundry-Liquid-Zero-Non-Bio-Laundry-Liquid-COSSH-Sheet.pdf and it mostly supports what their site is listing for ingredients.
Essentially as a cleaner it's a combination of non-ionic and anionic surfactants and the combination non-ionic and anionic surfactants are what it is doing the cleaning. They are using environmentally safe and biodegradable surfactants. Once diluted in use the ethanol (denatured alcohol likely with isopropanol) does not do much; its often added to help with solubilizing other ingredients in concentrates. There is a chelating agent that all basic detergents have to allow use with hard-water. Otherwise, the citric acid and sodium hydroxide are used to adjust the pH, and the SDS shows pH = 8.6 which is near neutral and in-use will be very near neutral pH.
Based on the concentrations specified in the SDS, when using the product for manual cleaning dilute 10-mL/L.
Note: For those in the US, Ecover sells a ZERO Laundry Detergent but it is a very different product - Ecover Laundry_93oz_Zero_CA Disclosure_012220 (netdna-ssl.com) with upwards of 28 ingredients.
Good Luck,
Neil
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@robjordan
Rob,
Yes, the Dehypon is ok to use as wetting agent in this mix.
As far as the crystalline citric acid, this is where I stop. I am not getting into the formulating of products. The DWV + some drops of a nonionic surfactant wetting agent is as far as I go. 5% DWV is not the same as 5% citric acid, the citric acid is a stronger acid so you use less. Exactly how much less, can be calculated and then you into weight measurement which then further complicates the process - all more than I am willing to do. You could pose the problem at some chemistry forums and see what they would recommend to equal the acidity of 5% DWV and then dilute as specified.
Neil
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@lewm
The company site lists denatured alcohol Denatured alcohol - Wikipedia while the SDS just lists ethanol. Here is an example of denatured alcohol - Microsoft Word - 6210GHS (chemtel.net) and this a safe solvent, but this is also denatured alcohol \\TAHOE\APPS\MIRS\REPORTS\MSWRPTM.FRX (mscdirect.com) and this is not safe for the record. But, the detergent is diluted 100:1 so even if 5%, in-use it would only be 0.05% - essentially inconsequential.
Industrial cleaning generally accepts pH 6-8 as 'neutral', and Ecover diluted 100:1 should be right in that zone, the ingredients do not include any pH stabilizing (buffering) products like phosphates and silicates. However, the record is pretty immune to alkaline cleaners up to about pH 12. The problem with the high alkaline cleaners is they can be a bear to rinse and residue will dry to 'rocks'.
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@pryso,
There is a left hand drop-down Table of Contents and clicking (touching if you have a touch screen) on any Chapter will link you to the applicable Chapter. Otherwise the document is extensively cross-linked so if you click on any referenced Chapter, Figure, paragraph or Table it will take you to the referenced item.
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@pryso,
Open the document with Adobe PDF Reader. You should have an option to open the document (right click OPEN with) with the web browser or open with Adobe PDF Reader. There should be a free app Adobe PDF Reader for MACs.
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@lewm
You are preaching to the choir, this what my book PACVR 3rd Ed states:
VIII.8.1.a Denatured Alcohol. Denatured alcohol that is purchased on-line or at a hardware store is generally ethanol (drinking alcohol) that has been denatured (made undrinkable) by generally adding methanol. However, methanol can be very toxic (absorbed through the skin) at higher concentrations. It’s important to read the label and/or the SDS. There are many grades of “denatured alcohol” and the methanol content can range from relatively safe 0.5% in reagent-grade to hazardous >25% in industrial grades.
VIII.8.1.c Methanol: Wood alcohol is methanol. Methanol can be very toxic; both through inhalation and skin absorption. Ingestion can be lethal or can result in blindness. Methanol vapors have an Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH)allowable 8-hour exposure limit of 200 ppm. The reported odor threshold for methanol is between 100 and 1500 ppm.
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@lewm
Agreed, however, I an not sure wiki is correct - here is just one example of reagent 'denatured' alcohol contents (vwr.com) and methanol is just 5%. However, this form of denatured alcohol \\TAHOE\APPS\MIRS\REPORTS\MSWRPTM.FRX (mscdirect.com) is just nasty. But, if you or anyone else wish to dive deeper, there are legally two types of denatured alcohol - specially denatured alcoho (SDA) l and completely denatured alcohol (CDA) - TTBGov - Industrial Alcohol Denatured Alcohol and the variations in SDA alone should be enough eCFR :: Home to give one pause let alone the CDA. Take away - when it comes to denatured alcohol read the SDS. Otherwise, as @lewm says and I agree isopropyl alcohol (same a 2-propanol/ CAS # 67-63-0) is the solvent of choice if that is your preference - but know the risks (flammability and toxicity - do not ingest) and stay away from rubbing alcohol - that is another mine field - see the book Table VIII.
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@lewm
Your opinion wrt IPA being a superior solvent to ethanol is spot on with the science. In the book, I did a basic Hansen Solubility Parameter analysis, and of the alcohols, IPA has the lowest Hildebrand solubility parameter - the lower the value essentially the more powerful the solvent. The Hildebrand solubility parameter considers three parameters - the energy from dispersion forces between molecules; the energy from dipolar intermolecular force between molecules; and the energy from hydrogen bonds between molecules; and is calculated as the square root of the sum of the squares. The book Chapter X addresses the details.
Otherwise, I suspect like you, I am no fan of solvents. When I was with the Navy and was developing cleaning procedures for life support I had a three member medical board that reviewed every cleaning agent - the Senior Navy Toxicologist, the Senior Navy Industrial Hygienist and the Senior Diving/Submarine Medical Officer (this represented the most critical application). We also off-gassed every cleaning agent at NASA White Sands Test Facility labs so got a view into what was actually in the cleaning agents. Over the many years I got quite an education on the hazards of solvents and 'other' hidden hazards even in some commercial water based cleaning agents.
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The science of surfactants is pretty amazing - there is very little they do not touch. Although Triton X100 is now banded in AU/EU/UK because it's an aquatic toxin. But Polysorbate 20 (same Tween20) is still available, so the book now lists Polysorbate20 as an alternative for those overseas. The viscosity is about the same as Triton X100, it does not reduce the surface tension as much, but its good enough and its critical micelle concentration is less so less is used - easier to rinse.
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@mglik
Enzymes are biological catalysts that are generally some kind of protein. There is the “lock & key” analogy associated with enzymes and cleaning. The particular enzyme must be the right key to unlock (dissolving) the particular soil. There are four (4) basic enzymes used and how each works can be contaminant, time, concentration and surface dependent, and they have to be rinsed.
For further details read the book PACVR 3rd Ed Section VIII.9. Otherwise, if you read Chapter XII you may see some cleaning agent options for vacuum RCM.
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@lewm,
This is what I specifically stated in the book, and I stand corrected on 'generally some kind"
VIII.9 ENZYMES. Enzymes are biological catalysts that are generally some kind of protein. There is the “lock & key” analogy associated with enzymes and cleaning. The particular enzyme must be the right key to unlock (dissolving) the particular soil. There are four (4) basic enzymes used and how each works can be contaminant, time, concentration and surface dependent, and they have to be rinsed.
CAUTION
The enzymes can be irritating to some individuals. Per Guidance for the Risk
Assessment of Enzyme-Containing Consumer Products (1), “Almost all enzymes
used in consumer products are proteins which are foreign to the human immune
system and can act as allergens through a Type 1 hypersensitivity mechanism
following exposure, typically by inhalation.”. If while handling or using an enzyme
any breathing irritation or difficulty is experienced stop use immediately and seek
medical attention if symptoms persist.
VIII.9.1 Proteases break down protein-based soils including blood, urine, food, feces, wine and other beverages. This is the most commonly used type enzyme in cleaners.
VIII.9.2 Amylases break down starch molecules like eggs, sugars, sauces, ice cream, gravy. This is a commonly used enzyme in cleaners.
VIII.9.3 Lipases break down fat molecules like oils and grease. This may work for fingerprints, but mineral-based such as refined/synthetic oils/greases - not so well.
VIII.9.4 Cellulases are used to soften fabric and restore color to fibers made up of cellulose material. They also remove particulate soil and reduce fabric graying and pilling. How well they actually remove particulate is unknown - literature is pretty thin, and likely surface dependent - may work on clothes, but not hard surfaces or very small particles.
If you review the ingredient list of a quality laundry detergent such as Tide - CPID (whatsinproducts.com) you will see various enzymes - good for blood, urine and grass stains. What does this all have to do with cleaning a record - well unless someone bled on it, used it as bathroom, had sex on it or used it as a frizz-bee, not much that I can see.
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@pindac,
Here are the details of your brush - YUKIMU SUPER AUDIO ACCESSORY| Yukimu. The 'secret' to the brush is the Mitsubishi COREBRID™ B bristle which is a hollow acrylic bristle filled with carbon making it anti-static. Other companies such as 2:Anti-Static | Analog Relax and Furutech 圖片 Audio grade IEC connector use the same bristle in their brushes; and they are all expensive. The Furutech literature specifies the following: It is possible to wash the brush, however, take care not to entangle the fibers and do not use detergents or bleaches. RINSE WITH FRESH WATER ONLY. After washing, dry in a shaded, well-ventilated area.
However, unless you have reason to suspect the brush is dirty with oil or grease, no reason to resort to wet cleaning. Brushing across a rod of Teflon should be fine to remove particles. Particle articles will want to adhere to the Teflon (lowest on the Triboelectric scale) and the Teflon will do no harm to the bristle, and about a 3/8-inch to 0.5-inch diameter rod of Teflon is generally quite cheap. Then rinse the Teflon rod with water to remove the particles it picked up and dry.
Take care
Neil
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@pindac,
A very easy method to observe particles on Teflon is with a UV light. This is the UV light I use (which is addressed in the book): ALONEFIRE SV003 10W 365nm UV Flashlight Portable USB Rechargeable Woods Lamp Black Light for Pet Urine Detection, Resin Curing, Scorpion, Fishing, Minerals, Cure Glue, Bed Bugs with Battery, Charger - Amazon.com.
Teflon under UV does not fluoresce and takes on a gray dull appearance while particles and lint fluoresce in intensely whitish-blue making the particles and lint very easy to see. Also, if you rub the Teflon rod with a piece of white packing sheet-foam, it will charge the Teflon with static that is very negative better attracting particles and lint that generally have a positive charge. Also, the intent is both to slowly brush the Teflon rod as well as quickly brushing the Teflon rod to knock off particles from the brush all while not risking any damage to the brush.
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@pindac,
What you are seeing is one of the fundamental challengers with brushes - how do you know they are clean and how do you keep them clean? The same problem exists with fabric mats such as suede leather; except there is really no easy method to clean suede leather mats; I used to use one - no more. I use a mat that has a smooth surface that is easily cleaned with a 4-inch silicone tacky roller that is easy to clean and reuse. Otherwise, I have not used a dry-brush on my records in about 2-yrs. I use the Teflon rod and UV light as I address in the book Chapter VI (latest direction in 3rd Ed Change 1). But the Teflon rod is not intuitive and controversial, so I do not promote it.
Take care,
Neil
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@slaw, @billstevenson
The UV light verifies that the PTFE (Teflon) rod works; that it picks up particles & lint from the brush (or record is used as specified in the book). The UV light also verifies that the PTFE (Teflon) rod is clean with most particles removed prior to use. I use the Kinetronics Tiger Cloth Amazon.com: Kinetronics Anti-Static Microfiber Cloth, 10x18-Inch Tiger Cloth : Health & Household to wipe down the rod. The cloth which has copper threads interwoven is anti-static and the particles it removes from the rod are easily removed by just shaking the cloth; the particles do not want to stick to the neutral charge cloth. Every so often I will spray the rod with DIW and then wipe it down with the Tiger cloth to remove all particles from the rod.
After all is said and done, it's all about maintenance of cleanliness. We just jumped through many hoops to wet clean the record; it does take a little bit of forethought and effort to keep it reasonably clean.
Take care,
Neil
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@slaw 
@billstevenson,
Do not drive yourself crazy with trying to remove all particles that UV can detect. It's inherent to the environment but keeping it under 'reasonable' control benefits keeping the record clean - it's all about maintenance of cleanliness. FYI, I use a fingerprint brush to dust the table - Amazon.com : fingerprint brush. They last about 6-months before they get too dirty for further use. I do not use it on the record; the fiberglass bristles are too fragile for that kind of dusting.
Take care,
Neil
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