preamplifier after preamplifier?


Hi.

I have a preamplifier and a poweramplifier I am very satisfied with.
The preamplifier is connected to the poweramplifier and the powerampfiler is connected to speakers,
The connection between the pre- and power-amplifiler is also spited to two active subwoofers.

However, I miss the option to control my sub-woofers volume relative to the speaker volume.
My pre don't have any settings for tuning this, just volume +/-

Can I connect a Second pre-amp with independent volume before the sub-woofers? will this cause any damage or problems?
It might be easier to understand this drawing:


Pre #1: pro-ject pre box s2 digital
Pre #2: AIYIMA Tube Pre

flemmingss

Showing 3 responses by oldhvymec

I know what he’s talking about the subs don’t increase enough to match the mains when you turn it up. Then when you match the mains at a higher volume and then turn it down again the subs is to loud.

That’s the problem with higher sensitivity speakers and most subs.. Most subs sold use high excursion speakers, but low sensitivity. 83-85% is not uncommon. One of the main reasons I build my own or make darn sure they match pretty close.

GR servos are 90+ so are all the subs I use. HO44 10" Daytons 90+ @ 8 ohms. Dayton 225-4 is a 8" mid bass driver, I use in Bass columns are 91%.

My mains are 92-3% planars/ribbons..

No matter what I do the bass is correct. Very low volume or very high volume, 300hz and down matches perfect with 300hz and up. Not always easy to do, without getting up and changing the gain by hand on the subs.

The OP likes two remotes.. LOL

Another option is use a preamp with a separate sub out. Mcintosh and Krell both had that option on their HT/Stereo series. The Subs had a separate +12db gain from the mains and Mcintosh had tone control to boot..

I think a Parasound Zpre3 has separate bass and sub volume control. I have one. :-) Just been a while.

Regards

He is saying his subs are active or powered. A passive sub usually has an onboard XO, but there is Debra, Swarm designs that run 1-4 subs per amp and the amp has the low pass filters and settings. Dayton 1000s are very popular, run one or two.

I use a DCX2496, just for the convenience and ease to add a passive subs or bass column (up to 6 and the controller is daisy chainable 128 nodes). Heck I can even add a rumble filter for TT use or use it as a band pass for my Bass columns. 100-300hz and it has zero effect on GRs OB servo sub DBA I use from 100hz and down.

MY point is simple if all your drivers are matched pretty close including the subs, turning the volume up or down is usually ok with most systems. When you have KHorns. or Corner horns, or La Scala, you'll understand what the OP is probably talking about IF you had most subs.

The speaker efficiency don't jive, can you dig it? 100%+ efficient main speakers with 85% subs don't work. For ME!. They might for you. :-) That would drive me completely bonkers, my wife would go nuttier than she already is, bouncing up and down to match subs. AND she would, trust me.

Maybe I'm to picky. :-)

Regards

The one thing I really like with a DCX2496 is I can run Behringer amps with it and they are made for each other. I use up to 3 NU12,000. All the drivers are direct coupled, no crossovers between the power amps and subs.

About 2000 watts @ 8 ohms 4000 @ 4 ohms. I’ve pushed 1 ohm for a while, 2 ohms no problem at all. They have very good cone control, the best I’ve ever seen actually, other than servo.. At 8 ohms. Clear deep solid bass. Those 12K will pump it out. They were about 500.00 each. They are close to 800.00 or more now. The secret is out. :-) I can’t break one. I been trying for over 6 years now..

Regards