Power supply improvement for CD player

Hey man, this is the method. #1: Settle on a power cord. Detachable cords are BULL. If your unit has an EIC/whatever, socket...you want to trace the AC input path up to the transformer. If you encounter a fuse, or some Power conditioning circuit, solder the the bare positive of the power cord directly to the fuse, and a short wire from the other side of the fuse to the transformer input. Shorten any wire lengths as possible. Trace the ground and solder the bare power cord ground wire to the spot. Secure the power cord to the chassis in a manor that is secure. #2: Un- bolt the transformer from the chassis. Find/buy a adequate size (for the transformer) block, or square of rubbery stuff (that wont melt or burst into flames from modest heat). Buy some GE Silicone III(gold). Generously glue the rubber pad to the chassis, then glue the bottom of the transformer to the pad.*NOTE: DO NOT PLACE THE UNIT-UPSIDE DOWN, OR ON SIDES AFTER THIS STEP...FOREVER. Be brave, you can manage that. Let the silicone cure, and now, step #3: You want to fabricate a wall/barer to isolate the the transformer and anything AC, or having to do with power supply, from the other circuits within the chassis. By all means, strive for engineering excellence. But, you can glue Aluminum Foil to cut-out to shape Cardboard with the GE silicone, Form your wall in the chassis up to the top of the chassis(mind that the cover can be secured without crush/deforming wall) and GLUE IT IN PLACE. Attach a small wire from the foil to the chassis. CONGRATULATIONS...what you have done is to DIRECTLY SOLDERED the AC Connection out to the wall, "FLOATED" the Transformer TO ELIMINATE VIBRATION TRANSFER to chassis, and ISOLATED THE POWER SUPPLY within the unit. Without modifying the actual power supply circuit, this is the best you can do. You may feel compelled to improvise on the steps described. By all means, use your imagination to raise the modification to your own standard of excellence. The result as described is max purity of device operation. Another level of performance from the same Unit. *Try this with ALL your components. All the best to you.

If you take the steps RODMAN99999 outlined, you WILL change the output character of the circuit. Beware of spending money on "across the board" modifications of older Digital equipment. I do not wish to discourage in any way, but be mindful that the D/A conversion scheme, and analog output stage were designed with the power supply to support them in a R&D situation. substitution of power supply components that are "better" does not, as a rule, ensure a more desirable Audio quality. Brightness, edge, forwardness or an opaque quality all are possible results of power supply circuit alterations out-of-hand without trial and evaluation. This law when it comes to fine audio. Ultimately, the digital and analog circuits of you unit have the last say on quality of output. If you like the sound of your unit now and wish to enhance it, think twice about changes that will require money and component swaps on the power supply. The result might disappoint, or be unacceptably different from what you had. Apply "passive" modifications...My advice, or just get a "better" unit. Good luck, and enjoy the music.

I hear YOU RODMAN99999. These things (improvements)are possible by that route. No doubt there. I'm only advising the practical. Our fellow(or other)member should take a serious look... at what's ALREADY ON the PS board, and do a small(uhm) evaluation whether it's worth it/practical to swap-out any component after it is compared to a possible replacement. I would bet Lexicon did well on PS execution(device selection) as is. BE AWARE OF THE SITUATION. Then act accordingly to your findings(re:"across the board-out-of hand", no..no.). Recommended every-time. Personally, I've tinkered since High School. In '78, I attended the Army Signal school at Fort Gordon,GA in the Fixed Radio Repair (32H)course. Served as a technician with the 323rd Maintenance Co. at Ft Devens MA for some time. I play guitar, my baby is a black '67 Les Paul Custom I (I purchased in '79 for $500. try that today..).That said, I always search for ways to get better audio quality from stuff I own, as I'm sure we AudiogoN's do as a community. I will only try to give bottom line advice, not experiments or assumptions about what's in what YOU own, unless I OWN, or have in the past have had direct knowledge of THAT unit's design. Circuit modifications on well designed(RT-20)digital gear, that cannot be measured(lucky for you), are subjective and subtle at best. Or it wouldn't have been what you wanted to own in the first place, right? Better Fuse($$),ok...,esoteric power"cord", well...cable gauge(thickness) maters most, before alloy quality($$$) or any theoretical strand layout schemes($$$$). You can find a "ultimate" power cord at HOME DEPOT.Throw away that "detachable" socket and solder direct to unit. Use a decent Hospital Grade plug for the wall side from there as well, with $3.50 snap-on ferrite blockers attached to both ends from PARTS EXPRESS, and forget about it. I feel I have expressed quite enough for today, hope you manage to enjoy the music!

Have you ever tried a Power Cord setup as I suggested? At least you don't sell power cords, so you could keep yourself open to that. Dan D'Agostino uses a method I wish I could use, #8(?)gauge twisted copper from the transformer to the breaker box(done by the utility co.). Prohibitively expensive for me. Beyond that, considering the wire quality running from my box (it is not Kimber Kable)to the wall outlet, the relatively short wires that connect the unit to that outlet need only to mach that in-wall wire's (must be copper, no aluminum)transfer capabilities. Twisted strand and conductor(to spin-off magnetic field)copper cable is not expensive. Shorter is better. If there is excess length, braid it as possible for even more magnetic field rejection. Snap-on, or pull-over RF Blockers(of largest diameter you can find)on each end. Aftermarket types, used with typical in-wall wiring, can only mach that at any price(tang quality of the plug and receptacle is an exception). This is my view. I did not belittle your advice or dismiss your methods. I had no aim to be cynical. You(RODMAN99999)had mentioned your "experience" in response to me, first. No "pissing around" here. I respectfully related some of mine.
And no, I haven't listened A/B to modified such as mentioned. I would like to. I am waiting on my new system to become available(Sony TA-A1ES/HAP-Z1ES). I will then take an exhaustive look for ANY possibilities, and I will Post.