Power Cables on Subwoofers do Matter


I read an opinion somewhere on this site that swapping the power cable on a subwoofer has a minimal effect and may not be worth it. I have a very different opinion. Power cables can completely transform a subwoofer’s performance.

I have an SVS SB-2000 powered sub and my preferred power cable, a Zavfino Fina, has made it sound like a different animal altogether. It has much more punch, freq response linearity, and liveliness. The manufacturer included power cable makes it sound slow, bloated, and almost out of tune just because it’s sloppy, in comparison. The only drawback to the Fina is that slam below 30-40 hz is a little recessed but it’s not major and is still clearly my choice. I also compared five other aftermarket power cables from other components in my system and they ALL had a different effect on the sub. For testing, I used various crossover points and most of the testing was with the loudspeakers off in order to isolate the sub for critical listening.

Cheers!

128x128gladmo

Showing 3 responses by oldhvymec

I run 1000 watt A/B Dayton plate amps. 1200 watt class D DSP Dayton plates. 370 watt A/B Servo plates. 12K Behringers (NU12000). I use heavy copper for power cables. #10 for all my sub plates and the 3 12K. I run them at 220/240 if we have a PARTY.

The only difference I heard is too small of a conductor or BAD cabling like aluminum with copper clad. I've seen that type of cable make a class D wobble a bit, and it was on older class Ds too. I won't mention names but be careful with a cable made with that material and WOVEN.. They look cool, but they SUCK.

I uses a 24 strand weave too that works really well at a low cost too. OCC with a good cover but it's not teflon. 

I've used #8 copper OCC with mill spec 5N silver large strand and teflon, VERY stiff but you should give that a listen. Run the cable on an AC or Refer unit for a month or so too. That makes a lot of difference too. With a dedicated 15 or 20 amp plug a 2400 watt maintainer per 2 subs and good cabling make a BIG difference in SQ.

Regards

This is a servo plate amp, LOOK at what you really need to do it right along with complete speaker decoupling from the entire room. A Turntable delight right down to a flat as a pancake 20hz or lower sub responce. NO woofer pumping AT ALL ever..

Plug a crap PC into this amp, you'll hear it.. 

Normaly when manufactures make a statement like couple the sub to the floor or power cables make no difference, that type of sub manufacture/owner likes to FEEL the sub through their bottoms, feet, and that type of thing.. They kind of loose the plot when it comes to TOTAL distortion and distructive harmonics and effects on all the other gear, not just "their" sub..

It's very districtive to super clean MB, mids and high drivers too. Vibration is vibration.. It dosn't mater what it's rattling. It also delivers a delayed responce way out of time with the actual drivers and the rooms reflected responce.

I like a ground UP approch other than TAME an issue after the fact. Plates falling off the walls, kitchen cabinets rattling.. I know glue them to the wall. ALL FIXED. :-)

Regards

hilde45, williewonka gave you some great name brands and what to look for in cable constructon and cable materials. Pinwheel tech is all the rage for a reason. IT WORKS.

How does it work on Bass application? I suppose wonderfully but I’d doubt you could hear a difference and that is all that counts.

I recommend a certain construction type with bass anything.

1. HEAVY copper, fine strand, SOOW 10/2/g. Longer than 3 meters #8, 99.999 OFC in a polyvinyl and BR cover with cotton. This is the Minimun QC, type of dielectric and copper type.

2. Heavy red copper terminal ends.

Here is the NUGGET for Bass power cable contruction:

No Rodium, Gold, Brass, Iron, lead, alumunun, stainless or anything else.
Copper and silver. Even the screws have to be copper, no screwing around OK.. PAY ATTENTION. This is where the rubber meet the road with sound. ONE SINGLE itty bitty NON pointed (or sharpened) SCREW can gum up the works on a speaker IC. PC not so much.. Thank God..

IF I use OCC for a bass PC the sound quality is the same. I notice no difference when used on plates other that a certain construction and it boils down to the ENDS on your PC. The size and length of the cable along with good construction techniques keep the quality control the same.

I look at the cable under a 50-1000X and see if the cable is made correct. All the wire has to be pulled through the dye in the same direction OR did they GOOF and put the wire in the cable construction both ways. LOL I’ve seen it a few times in 3K cables. Their saving grace was red copper terminal ends..

Main Power Cables and for a full frequency devices, I use a different construction. It may be as big but usually there is a silver componant, teflon, cotton, contact enhancers and maybe mill spec silver over red copper terminal ends.

I condition ALL my cables on my basement fan. :-) I hook them there for 3 weeks then on to a cooker for 10 more days. BTW that fan has been ON 24/7 for 18 years. It has never had any maintenance other that cleaning the impellar for balance. I can feel it through the wall.

Merry Christmas Everyone...

PS the spell check just quit working.. NO idea why it did, that happened before in the early revamp of AG.. Month or so ago.. As you can tell, I neeeeeeed it..