Outlet Question


Could not find category for outlets so I am asking here. What would be good outlets to change too? I had hospital grade from Home Depot 20 years ago but left them when I moved. Is there any good outlets for about $20 U.S. anyone can recommend? I don't want to go crazy but get something better than what is stock on homes built in the last 4 years. Any suggestions would be great!

romad

Showing 12 responses by jea48

Not all Hubbell 5362 outlets are created, (manufactured), equal...

Notice the silver color Yoke/supporting back strap on some of the Hubbell 5362 photos?

That is not silver, it's galvanized steel. Steel is not good for the sound from audio equipment. It will cause a slightly grainy sound from an audio system.

Hubbell changed hands several years ago. Do your homework before buying.

Ferrous Steel... Just look at an audio grade outlet company's outlet, that have their outlets made to their specs. You won't see any steel used. 

You don't have to spend big bucks for a good sounding outlet. Just buy one that has a non nickel plated brass back strap an non nickel plated brass contacts.

 

@imhififan said: . . .    Wow! 🤔🤕🚯

 

Context...

 
 

Not all Hubbell 5362 outlets are created, (manufactured), equal...

Notice the silver color Yoke/supporting back strap on some of the Hubbell 5362 photos?

That is not silver, it's galvanized steel. Steel is not good for the sound from audio equipment. It will cause a slightly grainy sound from an audio system.

Hubbell changed hands several years ago. Do your homework before buying.

Ferrous Steel... Just look at an audio grade outlet company's outlet, that have their outlets made to their specs. You won't see any steel used. 

You don't have to spend big bucks for a good sounding outlet. Just buy one that has a non nickel plated brass back strap an non nickel plated brass contacts.

@imhififan , Sorry if I didn't explain it well enough for you.  What part don't you understand?

Jim

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@vair68robert Said:

I installed them about 10 years ago , model 8200W 15amp

Do they look like these?

Except your’s are the 8200H (15A) hospital grade duplex receptacle. If yes those are the real deal original Hubbell outlet. Check the Agon archives for the Porter Port outlet.

The outlet is/was a Hubbell 8200H / 8300H slender/compact style extra heavy duty hospital grade duplex receptacle. (8200H, 15 amp. 8300H, 20 amp.)

Contacts brass. Supporting back strap brass. Body tough as nails. You could beat it with a hammer and not break it.

Old stock now though...

From Albert Porter’s old ad:

The Hospital grade I was so fond of is (model 8300) is only available with magnetic steel back strap and galvanized plating. This is miserable sounding so I’ve abandoned that design.


By ordering about 1000 pieces at a time, Hubbell is delivering Hospital grade interior parts, unplated and non magnetic in the industrial 5362 body, brass back strap. and Isolated Ground. This is the best Porter Port ever.

The replacement to the old no longer made outlet Albert bought was an IG5362 duplex receptacle. I doubt Hubbell builds that exact outlet anymore with non plated brass contacts and a non plated brass back strap.

NOTE: The Photos in Albert’s ad above are of the old 8300H outlets. Not the IG5362 outlet.

/ / / /

@vair68robert   Said:

The inside is the exact same as the 20 amp , you pay extra for the cover !

Insides are exactly the same right down to the "T" neutral contact for the 20 amp outlet.

As for price, Box Stores charged more for a 20A outlet. I don’t remember if Electrical Wholesale Houses did though.

I do remember Electrical wholesale Houses charged more for a red color 15A hospital grade outlet than the 20A hospital grade outlet. Why? Special run on the Assembly line to build, assemble, the less bought 15A outlet.

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@imhififan 

Yes a high grade nonmagnetic SS back strap works great. But not a Ferrous magnetic steel back strap.  Use a magnet to check. If it sticks like glue that's not good for the sound of an audio system.

Furutech wall outlets      

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The Late Al Sekela (A) ,an Audio Asylum member, said the ferrous magnetic steel back strap worked like a one pole inductor because it was positioned between the Hot and neutral current carrying conductors. Do a search on the AA archives for Al's posts.

Al was an EE, and going from memory, his field was in electronics.   

@romad

Here is good Hubbell 15 amp duplex receptacle. Price is around $30.00. Sound is a tad warm from neutral. YMMV though.

Deep body style Hubbell HBL5262 Extra Heavy Duty MAX Specification Grade
Duplex Receptacle.

Hubbell HBL5262W Duplex Industrial Grade Receptacle Nema5-15R

specs

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Click on the forth image for a look inside the outlet.

https://www.standardelectricsupply.com/Hubbell-HBL5262-Straight-Blade-Receptacle

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20 amp.

Hubbell HBL5362 Extra Heavy Duty MAX Specification Grade Duplex Receptacle.

How does the residential grade outlet compare to the Hubbell outlet.

* Contact surface area.

* Contact pressure.

 

 

I found these PS Audio outlets have great grip and are reasonable:

https://www.psaudio.com/products/powerport-classic

 

It’s a Hubbell IG8300 20A hospital grade slender/compact design duplex receptacle.

https://hubbellcdn.com/specsheet/WIRING_IG8300_spec.pdf

Says back strap is brass. Because of the color I assume nickel plated brass.

Just a guess the electrical contacts are nickel plated brass as well.

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Why do audiophiles use IG, (Isolated Ground), type outlets for the outlets to feed their audio equipment where the branch circuit wiring used is Romex? When connected to Romex branch circuit wiring IG outlets do not meet the manufacturer’s intended use of an IG outlet. In the case of Hubble IG outlets, especially the Hubbell non plated brass supporting back strap and non plated brass contacts, the IG5262 (15A) or IG5362 (20A) slender/compact design Extra heavy duty MAX outlet the IG contacts does nothing for how the outlet impacts the sound of an audio system.

The reason the outlet is used is for the neutral presentation of the sound heard from an audio system. It doesn’t color the sound nor does ’ it ’ add noise to the sound of an audio system. It’s neutral, it doesn’t get in the way of the sound... Again, it has nothing to do with the IG contact.

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FYI:

The outlet supporting back strap, that includes the threaded 6/32 hub that supports the wall cover plate of an IG, (Isolated Ground), type outlet is not electrically connected to the ground contact of the outlet. An IG outlet is not designed nor intended for use connected to Romex wiring. Though it can be wired so it will be electrically safe from a possible electrical hazard to life if the box used for the branch circuit wiring is made of metal.

Electrical safety code requires the metal box shall be grounded. So the metal box must be bonded to the EGC, ( Equipment Grounding Conductor), of the Romex branch circuit wiring. When an IG outlet is used, where the wiring is Romex, installed in a metal box the back strap of the outlet is grounded when installed, fastened, to the metal box. At that point the IG outlet is no different than a regular grounding type outlet.

A possible electrical safety shock hazard is when the electrical box is plastic. In this case only the ground contact of the outlet is grounded by the EGC. The back strap including the threaded 6/32 hub that supports the wall plate is not. IF for any reason the hot wire of the Romex comes in contact with the back strap it will be energized 120V. Imagine if the wall cover plate is metal. The metal plate will be energized 120V with respect to any grounded object. Like the grounded metal enclosure(s) of a piece of audio equipment. Even in the case where a plastic cover plate is used the metal 6/32 trim screw that holds on the plastic plate will be energized 120V.

A simple fix, but, the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) in your area may not approve it, that will ground the metal supporting back strap of the outlet.

One of these guys:

8 in. Grounding Pigtail 12 AWG Green Stranded Wire with #10 Fork/#10 Ring and Screw

How to use:

Turn off branch circuit breaker at electrical panel...

Plug in a lamp. Switch on lamp. Bulb is lit. Go to electrical panel, turn off breaker. Verify power is off...

Pull outlet from plastic wall box. Pull it out just enough to get to the green color IG ground lug screw on the outlet.

Loosen the ground screw just enough to slide the green pigtail fork behind the bare solid copper EGC ground wire. Tighten down ground screw. Make sure connection is tight. Pull on green pigtail wire.

If the outlet is a Hubbell IG outlet the 6/32x1" machine screw that fastens the Yoke of the supporting back to the wall box has an Auto Ground Clip. (Right next to the IG lug green color ground screw). Remove 6/32x1" machine screw from the auto ground clip. Remove green color machine screw from the ring, eyelet, of green grounding jumper wire. With the mechanical wire crimp of the ring facing you insert the 6/32x1" machine screw through the green pigtail ring and then into the auto ground clip on the Yoke/supporting back strap of the outlet.

Install outlet back to wall box. As for the 6/32x1" machine screw that the ground pigtail is connected to no need to over tighten the screw. Just bring it up snug as you would when installing an outlet. The auto ground clip on the outlet will make a good ground contact to the Yoke/supporting back strap of the outlet. (You can check the green ground wire ring is tight against the screw head and auto ground clip by checking the physical resistance when slightly trying to turn it back back and forth. Tighten down screw in a little more if needed.

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And then there [ is ] always the issue of what happens to your insurance coverage in the event of a fire that starts with a “non approved” outlet?

Can you please give an example of how a "non approved" outlet could cause a fire.

In the case of an IG, (Isolated Ground), outlet I can’t envision any instance where it could cause an electrical fire. An electrical shock hazard? Possibly if the metal supporting back strap is not grounded and became energized from contact to the hot bared conductor.

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