Opinions re: debugging/repairing Cambridge Audio 540A amp stage


Hey! My old Cambridge Audio 540A has seen better days. It's been acting up recently. I'm interested in fixing it up myself if I can, but I'm looking for opinions on where to start.

Symptoms: speaker output on *any* channel (L/R, A and B) can drop instantly from the correct level to partial (including zero output). It does not happen consistently: on some audio streams, it seems more stable, but I have no way to reproduce reliably. The drop is instantaneous, not a slow shift. I can reset the audio levels if I switch input selector and back, until it happens again. If I do nothing, sometimes the audio will click back into place on its own.

This can happen on any input. Multimeter suggests that the voltage on the output drops when the audio drops; I don't suspect an issue with the speakers, but I don't have spares to test with. Headphone output is always perfect. My suspicion has been the amp stage in the 540A.

This is not a new unit, and so I popped the top off. My first suspicion was the big capacitors, because of age and the gunk they'd deposited on the board: https://i.imgur.com/u0Qnj8O.jpg  So I've cleaned those and replaced them. The problem persists, but I didn't have replacements to hand for the smaller capacitors.

I'm feeling my way around as I go; I have a copy of the service manual so I can decipher things, but I'm looking for good approaches to debugging these units to home in on the problem.

Note, obviously I can replace this unit easily. But if I can fix it, I'll feel happier, and I'm also happy to get my hands dirty. I'd appreciate pointers from folks on what to attack!
sodsto

Showing 1 response by puklars

Hi! New in this forum, found in google when facing the same issue in my 540A. First thought the problem was with my newly bought used refurbished B&O Beovox CX100 speakers and was about to call the speaker seller back and complain about a badly distorted speaker... but a quick check turned out that bridging the speaker output relay made the sound crystal clear.
For making the amp a tiny bit more "hi-fi" I decided to simply bridge the relay bypassing the contact paths completely with tiny bits of wire. I understood I would be hearing a loud "thump" in the speakers upon every push of the power button, but that was according to me a cheap price to pay for never having a relay issue again. But how wrong I was! After only a couple of power-ups with the relay bypassed (yes, with audible "thumps"), there was a small "pop" from the power board - two tiny fuses blew. So the amp was definitely not designed to work with a bypassed relay due to the apparent big power surge in the speaker paths.

It appears my 540A has a single, 2-pole relay controlling both channels with one relay coil. The left channel path shows ca. 6 - 7 ohms on the multimeter when the relay is closed, indicating a bad relay contact surface.
Side note:
This page shows that the 640A has two relays in the speaker path(s), either it is one for each channel or it is one for A and B speaker pairs respectively. The 540A has a hardwired front panel pushbutton switch for "Speaker B". I have not seen a 640A myself but I bet the B pair has its own relay and a "soft button" to it.
Side note 2:Could decide to go with connecting my 2 speakers only to the "B" outputs, another way to bypass the relay issue temporarily. Anyone has opinions about that? The B should have identical output ratings  - or not?