Mr. adg101
Welcome to the thread. Good luck with the cables DIY. Regarding your speaker
cable requirements (DF is 250. My speakers are Aerial Acoustics 7B’s and my
speaker cables are 8ft long per side) you need a 2 AWG. A 0 AWG will be
also fine.
What is the thickness of the cables you are currently using?
Bi-wire as you use it (short jumpers and one cable) is the best. Keep it
this way.
EMI RFI
No speaker cables need any EMI/RFI treatment. The Amp's output impedance
is so low, that it is like a short circuit to GND, from EMI/RFI aspect. The
twisted pair however, may cause some capacitance and inductance while two
separates won't. (I explained it down this thread already). There will be no
noise issues with the speaker cables I offer (for you to DIY).
|
Damping factor
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_factor
In an audio system, the damping factor gives the ratio of the rated impedance of the loudspeaker to the source impedance. Only the resistive part of the loudspeaker impedance is used. The amplifier output impedance is also assumed to be totally resistive.
For the rest of that link, it is a mistake! This thread is the why. Those who tried it, are the proof. |
Mr. batenet
Sorry, S. Korea is also not responding. None of the e-mails came back
with an answer, and both lines (US and S .Korea) are not responding. The date
on the data sheet is 2005 (11 years ago). They might change the phone numbers
or no more in business. It is a dead end.
Some links say that the DF is high but no figures are provided. I would assume
it is 500 and go with a 0 AWG for 8 ft. long.
|
Mr. mitch2
How is your DIY cables in progress are doing?
Any difficulties with the cable's ending? Please be kind to share.
When you are done and you share, please be kindly reminded to add the
data as I asked for, to get all facts together. Thanks.
|
Posts: There are two things that posts contain: a subject and a way to say it. No subject was ignored…but When the posts are insulting or repeatedly harassing, there is no room for that in this thread. So far, I proved my case and no one really challenged it, in a technical or logical way. Unfortunately, says like this that has no particular sense, except undermine my thread, as a general statement, with nothing real behind it, are common and they are not supported by anything. For you Mr. kosst_amojan, you are on a mission to go against me and my thread, over and over again. I haven’t seen from you any grate idea or even a slight technical insight. I would categorize you as a delegate from the industry that has an agenda to avoid the message from spreading, for very obvious reasons. |
What is your Amp's DF and how long is the cable required?
The #0 awg is the cable for a narrow combinations of Amp's / Length.
In some cases. less is required, in some more!
|
Thank you Mr. khiak
To rest my case, all who listened to me on this thread and followed,
ended up happy and with way better sound than they started with (whatever was
the old cable).
Could you please be kind to share some of your impressions on the sound
with your new DIY cables vs. the old once (what were they?). Thanks.
I was surprised how strong the cable industry was represented here by
some very annoying posts, or by others who bought their urban myths and tried
to spread them. Both are so wrong! As they try to keep you in the dark and sale
their cables (bad for you and too expensive).
Where is your dignity?
For my thread, it was silent for quite a while. I thought that no one
will join the DIY any more. Mr. khiak proved me wrong (I'm happy he did). There
is still a guy called mitch2 who said he is doing a DIY attempts but I think he was
not really doing it.
|
Update of the excel table of the DIY cables:
https://imgur.com/a/utMuqzK
Mr. khiak, could you please be kind to add the missing data? Thanks.
I'm happy for all those who followed and ended up with a better cable, way
better sound and little investment.
I am standing behind my word, that the calculated cable is the best you can
have for your equipment. All others would do only a partial job and provide a
partial sound quality of your equipment full potential.
|
|
I really don't care what banana plugs you will use with your DIY projects.
Even thou I can explain why it is the best possible banana plug for your DIY
cable.
Please look at this: "This debate regarding brass and pure
metals for connectors is probably best written off as just another high end vs
mid fi misunderstanding".
Well, all guys (Mr. conradnash, Mr. keppertup, Mr. khiak and also Mr. Willson
from BC) who made a DIY cable, with products cost under $60 (what is referred
as: mid fi misunderstanding), ended up with a way better sound than with
the cables called: another high end…
Are the definitions of Hi end and mid fi, were reversed? Is a
high end is what some swindler calls an inferior product Hi end,
and a first class sounding product (best possible), is now called mid fi? Let's
face it, it is not what those cable dealers or manufacturer's call a product,
but it is about what that product sounds like, in comparison with all others in
its class.
I have the best sounding cable, they call it mid fi, they have a bad
sounding cable but it is Hi end, just because they call it like that. What do
you charge for that say, as the cable doesn't worth a penny (from sound
perspective).
|
Mr. khiak
You have been ignoring my two requests:
a. To share your impression
about the sound with your new DIY cable.
b.
Fill in the data missing on
the excel table.
Please do.
Your approach regarding the equation of the amp-speaker circuit, with
the speaker cables in between is wrong! If you would isolate (as you did) the
DF from the circuit, and use optimal cables (0.0000 Ohms), it still not the 8
or 6 ohms of the speaker impedance, vs. the DF resistance value.
DF is provided by the standard, in an 8 ohms load (no matter what is
your speaker's actual impedance!) and at 1 KHz. Some brands would extend that
data into higher Fr.
However 1 KHz is not a low frequency at all.
Directionality: What directionality in AC where the wave is symmetrical
both ways?
Skin effect: When you look at the AWG table, you see that the data
provided is regarding the top Fr. That a cable can still pass it's full power.
A 4-0 gauge cable is way thicker than an audio system needs to pass through its
full power. At the playing power (even at peak) the 4-0 gauge cables still pass
more than sufficient at 20kHz.
|
Who is "We"? (For example we already know the cables the guy in UK)
What is your hi end brand or model? A link would be nice.
|
Mr. Dill
Big misunderstanding.
1.
You link an article not a
spec on a wire.
2.
Why do you need me to read
a long (endless) document that has nothing, but absolutely nothing to this
thread? After 220 posts you still do not understand a thing!
3.
Even if you would bring one
spec., it is nothing in that big pile of others who has no data at all.
4.
For the sake of this thread,
try to post things on subject and not off subject. Thanks.
|
Mr.
conradnash
Good
luck with the kimber 12TC cable. Let us know what your verdict is.
Even
with a mid end system, before you lay down your equipment, it needs a proper
room and some excellent sources (recordings). Are you sure you have that as a
start?
|
Mr. spatialking
You are a late comer to this thread. The issue was brought up earlier.
1.
The DF and the speaker 8
Ohms values are ref. as resistive only (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_factor):
In an audio system, the damping factor gives the ratio of the rated impedance of the
loudspeaker to the source impedance. Only the resistive part of the
loudspeaker impedance is used. The amplifier output impedance is also assumed
to be totally resistive.
2.
This is not the reason
speaker cables sound different!
There are as many attempts to explain, justify, point at factors without
really checking it or study the matter. Impedance (as it is a complex
"resistance" that includes an inductive (coil) and capacitive values,
is none relevant when a speaker's cable (a good one) is way under 0.002 Ohms. For
a cable, no matter how bad it is made (as a copper wire alone shall have no
inductive or capacitance at all!) the values of those inductive (coil) and capacitive
values are so low, that referred to the resistance value they have no effect.
Those values, with resistors of kilo Ohms do. This is a ratio of
1:1,000,000! Between 0.002 Ohms and 2k Ohms.
|
Mr. khiak
The link is to a picture and not a real excel file.
Please writhe it down in a post. I'll do the update into my file with your data. Thanks.
What about your sound impression with the new DIY cables?
What changed in the sound? |
Mr. khiak
Thanks. What a post to start my weekend with…Please be kind to thank in
person your dear friends: Sam and John. Posts like yours are the best reword to
my effort to bring this subject to your attention. It really makes me happy.
Some comments on the sound impression.
I assume that the DIY cables got the lows to sound more realistic. The Wilson Alexia driven by Passlabs 350.8
dont need a pair of Rel 212se to get the bottom lows alive! The note
that the DIY cable brought in the bass (detailed and tight) shows that the AWG
of the DIY cable was way more "right" than the previous Kharma. When
you emphasize one band (the low band in Sam's case) the
other bands might seem to have less. Often happens when a speaker is positioned
wrong and has too much bouncing bass from a wall or a corner. Not as it is
really has less highs. As Sam's impression is: "The high extension seems
to have lessen and sounded less sparkle, but sufficient
and overall adequate". Just the Fr. Response is more realistic
(flat). What you describe as sweet, is like having more of a tube sound: poor
DF. A poor cable can do that to a fantastic SS high DF amp. Some do like more
the "Sweet sound". However, the realistic is better to my opinion. I
see to yours too.
Same impression is repeated by you, just to give those words more
weight.
In overall, the #4 AWG DIY (calculated) cables got your Amp's into full
control (using most of the Amp's DF figure in use). It is another proof that science
prevails over none science methods. It also increases statistics, to get the
result more accurate and firm. By your testimony and the spirit of your words
(all six), it shows that a small try of the idea offered for free, goes a long
way when it land in your room and plays the music.
Could you please say:
a.
What was the length and gauge
of the Kharma and Ansuz (the once replaced by your new DIY cables)?
b.
How much did they cost?
c.
Could you get some pictures
of your cables (mainly of the endings).
Thanks.
I'm here for now. If I move, I'll leave a trail to keep helping those
who may ask. Thanks again for the sharing.
Here is a link to the updated excel table: https://imgur.com/a/tgGNIvB
|
Mr. khiak Thanks. 1. The imgur software: Click this: https://imgur.com/a/9IPINRA (the updated spreadsheet is there). Click the green box on left top of the screen that say: New post. On the window that opens, drag a picture. It will upload to the site. On the right top of the screen, an HTTP address line is created, next to the button: Copy. Copy it to your post. Every time someone clicks it here, a new window will open and your uploaded picture will show up. Repeat the process for more pictures.
2. The prices on the old cables (that been replaced by the DIY) are very high. It’s sum is over $30,000.- were replaced by $300.-!!! I assume that a US $8,000.- US $8,400.- and US $17,000.- are what some industry representatives here used to call Hi-end speaker cables. Call it whatever you like…I call it robbing $30,000.- from people, by taking advantage of their innocent desire to get a better sound out of their system. This revelation of yours (impression vs. cable value) is exactly what my claim was. Reading their adv. On site: https://audiofederation.com/brands/kharma/kharma-price-list And https://blinkhighend.com/shop/cables/ansuz-speakz-speaker-cables/ No technical data at all! Some mambo jumbo on technology, some "purity" crap, "one-material conductor-termination-circuit" superiority (?) and a staggering price. Calculations: None Fit to customer requirements: None Technical data for a skilled audiophile to pick the right one: None Results: Over $30,000.- of cost to be beaten by some understanding (in electronics) and $300.- of materials cost.
|
Some of the steady annoying members
(Like Mr. Dill and Mr. geoffkait) are not saying much over Mr. khiak's and his
dear friends generous posts. Quite obvious I would say. Please try to accept
that they have an agenda to keep this thread as low and slow as possible. If it
takes off, more and more will try my offered DIY calculated cables, the worse
it gets to them.
Now they cannot climb the tree of no Hi-end cable were replaced by the
DIY…(as it really doesn't matter what you call the old cable). Cables cost as
much as US $ 8,000.-, US $8,400.- and US
$ 17,000.- are most likely called like that.
The adv. of the expensive replaced cables, do not provide any technical
data (Mr. Dill!) but do talking about purity and other semantics that seems they
do not deliver much sound quality to the game. What is the VFM of a US $17,000.- that was replaced by a US $100.- DIY cable? Not much...
The bottom line is that those firms, that claim hills and mountains to
charge you a fortune, have no idea what speaker cables you need. They also have
no idea, what gauge that cable needs to be and why! Believe it or not, that's
the truth! The more guys go the path (DIY) the more of that truth will unfold.
They are telling you about all kind of things, like purity, directional,
skin effect, cryogenic treatment and more, to charge you that fortune. None is
relevant. Trust me on that. They talk about minor to non existing values, at
the time they miss the big picture.
This thread, the piling up of happy DIY guy's sharing and the results in
their rooms are a testimony that no one can take away from me. Even thou
different people say very similar things and all kept the DIY cable over the
old ones.
|
Mr. khiak
I'm not giving up on you. Let's do it step by step:
Look at this: https://imgur.com/a/OimyIhJ
It shows you the screen when you enter the "imgur" site. Look
at the top (header) left side. There is a green area with a cloud icon and
text: New post. Click it.
Than a new window is opened: https://imgur.com/a/wVEylZH
Drag the picture you want to upload into to the dotted area with the giraff picture. After the
upload finish, you will get again a screen like this: https://imgur.com/a/OimyIhJ
At the right side there is a black background with a URL address and a
button that says "copy". Push the copy or mark the URL address and
when marked, use the Ctrl+C to copy.
Than go to the post entry of Audiogon, at the place you want to have the
URL placed and use the Ctrl+V to paste the URL address in your post.
I need to see what you did with your DIY endings and the banana plug you used to answer
your question. I still stay with my old recommendation to use the Nakamichi
plugs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8x-Nakamichi-24k-Gold-Plated-Audio-BFA-Banana-Speaker-Plug-Screw-Cable-Wire-/271234103733?epid=1488360768&hash=item3f26cff9b5:g:m4AAAOxyaRZR2UT1
They do excellent contact, they are very easy to work with, they are firm and
can get up to 8 AWG wire.
|
Mr. kosst_amojan
Really?
All have no idea what a good sound is, but you? (or dealers, industry
guys ect'.)
Let's let each one to define for himself what is the sound they like. Also,
what is the sound they prefer. Not only you in favor of charging an arm and a
leg for a mediocre or bad cable, but you also wish to tell that poor guy (that
you just robbed US $10,000.- from) that this cable sound is the best for him?
I never said what is a better sound. I left that to the guys who did the
DIY cable to say. It is their saying, their testimony, their impression, their decision.
We live at times no one shall tell us good from wrong sound. Especially, when
we pay for that or put the time to build it (DIY).
|
Mr. geoffkait Nothing can be explained by directionality. It is one of the worst inventions of the cable industry ever. An absolute bull----. Audio signal is an AC (Alternated Current). An audio signal as complex it may be can be simplified by a set of sine waves (of different frequency and amplitude). This is what the Nyquist sampling is about and all digital sound (CD, PCM and on) is based on. A sine wave is a symmetrical wave (above and below the zero voltage line). So is the energy (Integral) of its positive and negative value (Sum equals to zero). As so, every half wave, the current flow one way and the other half in the opposite way. If a cable would be directional or have a directional property, it would be a disaster to one half. In such a case, the most difficult would be for the power grid that distributes a tremendous amount of power. If that would not be symmetrical, the difference would cost a lot and be a problem to deliver. Look at the power grid: millions of miles of wires, no one complains of directionality. No other but audio cable makers ever bothered with that. Those audio cable makers and sales rep. do, just because they charge money (a lot!) for no particular reason, but a lie. The way to explain why a Hi-end called (by you) cable, that costs US $10,000 sound inferior to a US $ 100.- DIY cable is the cable’s resistance ratio between the amp’s DF and the cable’s resistance. When this is calculated per system, the results are in the impression sharing’s of members of this site who tried it. They say the truth. They show gratitude. They are honest and put away a US $ 10,000.- cable away, back to the box over a US $100.- DIY they just compared too. Your say, is the proof of the cables industry attitude to the clients: spitting in their face. |
Let's make it correct. About difficult or simple it is not for us to
say. The basics of electricity are way different than what you suggest. Audio
is AC and AC flow both directions, whatever we like it or not. The flow is symmetrical.
In such case directional wire (do not exist! If you look for directional use a
diode) would be good for 50% of the time and not good for the other 50%.
So Audioquest is whom you represent? Audioquest site and tutorial is
mostly about ferry tails. If their explanations would be brought to an academic
institute that deals with electricity and electronics, that would get a laugh
and be disqualified in no time. So is your last post. Your say and Audioquest
say, has nothing to do with reality. It is all about an excuse to justify a 10'
long speaker cable to cost US $12,900.- The rest is not important, after the
price is paid. Later on, a US $100.- DIY will prevail in sound quality and the US
$12,900.-speaker cable will be retired.
|
Never ending audio urban myths.
Are we back big time? (all over again and again). Directional wires,
Burn in, purity? Let's add some snake oil, voodoo spelling, deeding in holly
water, lay the wire on special wood blocks etc'.
For some reason, the offered DIY needs none of them. They still sounded
better than any other cable used before. How do you explain that Mr. geoffkait? What happend to your Hi-end say, that gone with Mr. khiak's and friends sharing? US $33,000.-
Hi-end
worth of cables back to storage over some US $300.- DIY cables, changed your mind? The Hi end was removed from the table and the directinal BI returned.
I like the most, when a poor product (speaker cable) is offered for US $12,900.-,
sounds bad and you come up with the let it play for a while as it needs a burn
in! Mr. geoffkait, it will never sound better. Even if you take it out
to your car and give it a jump start with those cables. However, a proper
cable, with a good sound from the first time – don't need any burn in (or
excuses).
Mr. conradnash
Before you fall to Mr. geoffkait recommendations, I would kindly
propose you to fix all your acoustic and other audio issues, that require that room
correction process, that you mentioned on one of your previous posts. That is way
more significant in getting a better sound, than dancing with a candle around
cables and whisper spellings. You missed
the option of just light candles and eat some donates, as Hanukah is just over.
Room correction:
There was a guy who went with his wife to the tailor to get himself a
nice jacket. The tailor took measurements and asks him to return in a week.
After a week he was back, and the jacket was ready.
He put on the jacket, but one sleeve was a bit short. The tailor asked
him to tilt a bit to that side. Problem was fixed. But on the opposite side,
the bottom side of the jacket went up and exposed his lower back…After some 20
min. and endless corrections, the jacket was good but the guy had to stand in a
very awkward position. As he was standing there, a new couple walked in. The husband
looked at this awkward position standing guy and said to his wife: this looks as
a good tailor. If he managed to get this poor guy a jacket, he will do a really good
one for me.
This is what I think about room correction. This might explain some of your misunderstanding
of why the new DIY cable didn't shine when you replaced the old one. Your RC
had done some correction on the old cables (with DF and the relation between the two), as it is part of the loop. Did you
run RC SW again with the new DIY? Both ways the RC was involved…Pity you
mentioned it only later.
Instead of trying Mr. geoffkait recommendations (a waste of
time), try to play your system without RC and with your old cables. Than
connect the new DIY cable and listen again. Than be kind to share your impressions.
|
Could you use one at work, at the library, at a friend... |
Mr. geoffkait
Directionality can explain nothing. There is nothing in electrical science
to explain such a thing in cables. It exists only in audiophiles minds that were
talked into it at the time they were set up by the industry, with that excuse.
So is the BI (Burn In), metal purity and all that long and annoying list of
urban myths.
You better look for the explanation somewhere else. I can give you a
hint, but this thread is all about it. Your attitude to accept the truth (especially
of the six testimonies of the guys who tried the DIY cables, I offered), is in
a denial. I have a bad feeling that no matter how many will say the same, you
will stick to directionality.
Just let me say it again: there is no such a thing as directionality,
and with something that doesn't exist, nothing can be explained.
|
|
Mr. khiak,
Can't you get access to a PC? |
They have better speaker cable. Isn't that good enough? |
Mr. geoffkait
No, the solution for the difference in speaker's cables sound is not in quantum physics either. Long
time ago, I knew a guy who had absolutely no understanding in electricity or
audio, so he also claimed that it is all in quantum physics. Please be
aware that you step into murky water. This guy ended up in a whit suit with
strange sleeves in a mental institute…
It is not a communication problem. It is a matter of the place you are: in
total denial. Now, that we were exposed to the problem, I'll wish you a fast
and complete recovery.
|
Mr.
geoffkait
Sorry
for the bad news: We need to keep the conversation only with real stuff on this
thread. The since fiction, quantum physics and as you just said: things science
supposedly can’t explain or they actually can’t explain that I could give you
here but it’s probably beyond scope, need to stop and stay out.
As
this becomes an imaginary to illusionary stuff, I'll need to get back to the
UFO at my back yard to consult with the so advance ex-terrestrials. They are so
kind but they tend to lose their patient when I bring up your stuff. They claim
that even thou they are 250 million years more advanced than humans, they never
heard of those claims. One even got suspicious that you are bluffing them. I
don't want to upset them because they are my true inspiration for the DIY idea.
By
the way, they predicated your existence, but they fall short with the stuff you
are bringing up. Even they didn't see it coming!
|
Mr.
geoffkait
Where
is Mr. Dill to help you out of this mess? All the sudden when he is most needed,
he is gone. I've seen here some of your best friend's comments on your say and
showed it to my ex-terrestrials guests. They smiled and said: This one
we kind of seen coming…
They
also asked me if you worked for NASA at the time the Space Shuttle Challenger disaster
(January 28, 1986)? That could explain a lot…
|
Mr. tom1000
Thanks for your advice. It is not my design. It is my calculated wire
with a resistance values to fit the amp's output resistance. Your OFC been
grounded thin already on this thread. After all you are a late comer. A normal
cooper wire is 99.8% pure (by industry standard). The OFC (Oxygen Free Highly
Conductive copper), has only 0.1%-0.19% better conductivity than the
ordinary wire. In my calculation it is negligible. In real life, no one can
hear that difference. The OFC and purity are just to get you pay more for
something that does the same job. Go for it. I'll spend my money elsewhere.
|
I just spoke with ATC. The DF is 400. For 4.5m long you need 0 AWG. |
The ATC P1 power spec does not specift DF. A Q was sent to ATC. They do not answer the phone!
What cable do you have? (AWG and length).
|
Mr. viridian
Thanks for your incite. NAIM is special. Nothing is standard with that
firm and products. They have a special interconnect (not RCA and not XLR): a 3
pin DIN with bayonet. They have a look of a badly painted black shoebox and a
price of bankrupt! with a green light that reminding me the Saudi flag. So
is their approach to the speaker wire and interconnect cables. Buying a naim system
is a closed case in deed, because it is a catholic marriage. They force you to
keep with naim. They went a bit too far with that, so they turned into a cult. Like
a new religion called naim! You need to join it, learn the naim bible and live
by that. A tiny slip and you are out. I see you are already a preacher of that bible.
I don't like to be forced. I don't like cults and I don't like naim.
Case closed.
|
Mr. geoffkait After your say: "they are many audiophile examples of things science supposedly can’t explain or they actually can’t explain, that I could give you here but it’s probably beyond scope, than skid into quantum physics)" and the members comments on that, it will be a while till you show your face here again. The audiophile spell of the cables industry goes very far with you. I’m impressed you are deeply convinced of their nonsense to explain phenomenal sounds that exist only in your imagination. It is like religion: They convince you to believe in something you can’t hear (directionality), as religion had convince us to believe in something we can’t see (God)! It is time for you to open the first audiophiles full’s church / synagogue / mosque. It seems that if you charge 10 cents per donations, you can become a milliner in no time. Schtick ? that’s Yiddish. Are you Jewish? (BH). |
You've got it so wrong Mr. stevecham. The Space Shuttle Challenger
disaster was a combination of a bad management decision to launch it in
spite of very low temperature that day and a rings and gasket technical issue
that been fixed from that time on. Nothing personal. My say to Mr. geoffkait implied he
could make them (one or both) with his out of this world technical attitude. I
did not called him names as you did to me.
For the right cables (what you call 0 AWG): it works. We have 3 more guys
who did it and are very happy with the results. Sorry you missed it. The count
is on 6 so far.
|
Mr. Dill
Why would you doubt members or my integrity? We have nothing to gain or lose.
There is no money or profit involved. It is a scientific fact that some guys
went the extra mile to try it and returned to share their impression. Most also
showed some gratitude and appreciation. Sorry for you and some others, who try
for long to undermined this idea and write any possible post to go against it.
I should be the one to be subspecies with your perseverance and
tenacity, that you are driven by some industry agendas. Even thou you denied, there
is no way for someone to spend so much time and energy for a crusade like
yours.
|
Mr. kosst_amojan In science, there are ways to deal with claims. Some are proven right others to be wrong. History will tell if any other came earlier to claim the same. On both, I never had a guy on this thread to prove me wrong. All claims were of "different" nature. The so called jumper cables is not exactly what I claim, as some need less thick and other more thick cables, as per their equipment. My say doesn’t claim anything new or unknown so far to the electronics or electricity science. I just say that there is a relation between amp’s property’s (DF) and the speaker cable required resistance. On the fly, many tried to get me down from this idea, with variety of says, most common urban myths of the cables industry, till we got to Quantum mechanics. I’ll give that the benefit of the doubt, it was funny. For those who gave it a try, with a moderate budget of under US $100.- ended up embracing this idea and very happy with the results. The audio industry had many claims since it was introduced. Some were well done and stayed. Others came and gone. At the time they were in fashion, some made a lot of money. Money we paid for listening and purchasing that idea. The same was with media and standards. Like the Mini Disc and the ATRAC coding method (SONY). Some made an impressing comeback: LP and tube amplification. |
Mr. kosst_amojan
From where do you take this information about cable thickness and massive
amount of impedance?
This site would suggests otherwise: https://chemandy.com/calculators/round-wire-impedance-calculator.htm
At material = Cooper, Fr. = 0.02MHz (20KHz), Length = 2m, Diameter = 20mm,
Z = 0.00012 Ohms!
At 2mm, Z = 0.00143 (>10x worse or higher impedance).
The skin effect is about full power of a 0 AWG @ a Fr. of 250Hz @ 150Amp's.
It doesn't need that kind of current at any Fr. Or power. A 1,000W power into 8
ohms would require 16 Amps.
Not to say, that in Audio most energy above 10KHz are harmonies, with
substantial less power than the basic Fr. (-20dB less = x100 times less).
For some reason, those who tried it out were very happy with the
results.
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Sorry for the "0" on length. The new value is 0.00369
ohms and not 0.25 ohms as you say. Anyway, what about my Q:
"From where do you take this information about cable thickness and massive
amount of impedance?"
Regarding Interconnects, it's another thread...
I use XLR, no Litz. The entire Pro industry use XLR, at length of 100
meters and longer, no loss! On 2m, it is perfect.
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A short reminder: This thread is about speakers cables. No LAN cat 6, No balanced interconnects (XLR) or any other.
Until you answer my Q. don't expect to be answered.
With all the respect to Mr. Nelson Pass he went the wrong path. No one
here approved his cable sounds better than other, but mine did.
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Nelson Pass is not the subject of this thread. If I will go deeper into
that concept, you think you can keep up representing Nelson Pass's theory? I
don't think so.
Don't get me other's says. Bring yours. This thread is pretty much got
the attention and cooperation I hoped for. You and your dear friends are now here
just to do damage and keep me busy with your crap that you dig and fish over
the web.
So, unless you come up with some real stuff of your own, you better save
your time.
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What happened to you, to sit num for so long? It must be a triumph for you to complete an entire research in quantum mechanics and come up with a tangible result of some measurements. What was my recommendation for a speaker cable for your setup? Did you try that out and listened, just as some other guys here did, and came back with some very flattering and enlighten experiences? What measurements?
May we see some of those results, how they were measured (test setup)? What was the reference cable to show a fundamental difference, to prove your case? To say, everybody can. To prove some real data behind this would be more challenging. For you, a bright scientist in quantum mechanics, it must be easy. |
Watch your language. That's way it was flagged.
I'm tiered reading pages on pages of links others wrote. I've told you that you
may post your own. I don't read nor refer any more to other (like Nelson pass)
articles.
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Why do we have to repeat everything again (and again)?
1.
I've told you not to hold
your breath for the cables formula. I did offer to calculate for all, for free,
what cable they need. For some, who had a problem to get the DF, I walked the
extra mile to contact the manufacturer and get the information.
I reserve my right, not to give away my
formula, at least not for free.
If you think it worth for you, pass me an
offer on the privet massaging (-:
2.
Nelson Pass is not arguing
with me. You do. I've told you to bring your own say, not others. You claimed
you did measurements to prove me wrong! Where are they? Please show us what and
how you measured what, and the results.
3.
On my side, there are six
guys (five on this thread) that tried it out and came back with results and impressions.
I may say that they were all happy with the results.
Please refer to the excel table I posted
earlier.
What would support my claim, if not an evidence
of six people who had a recommended cable by some dealer, replaced by a
calculated cable, and their report of the improvement in sound?
Not to say, that they invested in that cable,
less than US $ 100.- for a result that mostly is unheard of, in this hobby.
There are two things that do connect my claim:
I show (by calculation) the right cable to use and once it is used, the owner's
report of what it improved.
It is a bit unfair, after some claimed that
all it matters is sound and how we hear it, that you come to claim, it is not
good for you and that you want scientific prove.
I'm afraid that it would get into par. 1 of
this post, why it was not added. Let's keep it that way for now.
As far as this dialog is getting, everything on your summery post has been
said already, done and dusted. Why anyone would want to read it all over again,
nor re write it?
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I assume that you and Mr. kosst_amojan are giving a lot all the time for
free and now you are wondering why not all do so?
All you were doing on this thread is giving me hard time with your
negative and hostile attitude. Now you think that you deserve to receive the
formula as a gift?
Happy dreams.
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Ok guys. This is going to end now and here. If your boss, of the cable
industry you may represent wish to have a conversation, I'm here. For you: I'm
no more available.
|
Mr.
ebm
Thanks.
All you have to say on the subject, is that I had typo?
It's not much from your side to bring to this table.
Just for the record, some others already paid attention and made this remark B4.
Are you the guy who mock those who stutter or have a limp?
You must be very proud of yourself. |
