Mr.
geoffkait
That directional power cord ,that you have mentioned before, if instead of
using it on my audio gear, I'll connect it to my coffee machine, would it make
a better coffee?
I
think that to be an audiophile, I need to use both, my ears and what's in between.
This is how I came out with this idea, how to calculate speaker cables.
For
some reason, there are too many weird stories going on with audio
and audiophiles, that no other hobby does (like photography, that use optics
and camera):
Directional
wires, Cryogenic treat, Skin effect in the audio band, Burn In to wires!, Bi
wired, Silver over cooper and more. All that for a wire? Is that a hidden camera
program or for real?
|
Mr. geoffkait
The fact you are an engineer, should help you understand better than others,
what I'm saying. I'm sorry that you can't do that.
I assume that there are also plenty of good and talented engineers with those
cable firms, that also never solved it.
Instead,
they came up with all kind of ferry tails.
|
Why would you say: " No one actually knows how to
calculate what speaker cable they need", when I just said I do?
Audio, as many other things is based on science. Not just listening and likes.
All that knowledge that been put into the equipment is coming from calculation
and monticules design.
Not by
audiophiles that tried all possible options and ended up with one they like
most.
This
fact, of "No one actually knows how to calculate what speaker
cable they need" is
very sad. I'm in this hobby for 45 years, and it's time to change that.
During
that long period of time, many firms took advantage of our ignorance, telling tells
of ferry tails for tons of money, spent for their benefit, rather than ours.
|
Mr. ganainm I’d read the long article. It is not providing an answer, of what speakers cables I need to my system. It mostly tackles phenomena that are minor or do not exist at all with speaker cables. I can NOT take that information that your article provides, and go shopping for my new speaker cables. The article may look impressing to a none engineering skilled eye. For an engineer (mostly analog) It will be on the edge of ridicules or absurd. What I’m saying, is that I can do such a calculation and provide the accurate data of what cable I need. As that been repeated and the results were profound and consistence, I can tell that it works. |
Mr. geoffkaitThanks, but no thanks. It is not a Nobel price thing. The fact that others didn’t came up with that before, is their shame, not my triumph. Now it’s for you to pick a side. I know that the butter on this bread slice is more with the cryogenic treat, the skin effect, the directional wire, the silver and all that stuff. Unfortunately, you haven’t offered them the Nobel Price! Did you? They did well. They offered you crap and were taking your money. That worth a nobel price. |
Mr.
han_n
I can help you. Please tell me what amp. and speakers you have, what is the required length of the speaker cables to connect them, and what is the cable (gauge) you are using now.
I'll do that calculation for you.
|
Mr. han_n
Would you use the same method when you are driving your car
to an unfamiliar place? Just drive and drive without any particular direction,
till you find it (or not). Willing to pay the money and time?
Well, most would just use a GPS NAV device, enter detonation and pick the
fastest or shortest way to get there. That's seems to make more sense to me,
than just driving without directions.
As
with GPS NAV, with a formula and science, you can get the right and optimal
cable on your first attempt. It will save you the time and money chasing that
till end of times.
Because
even if you are there (not knowing) you may continue the journey to find a
better one, that do not exist.
Good
luck and enjoy, your blind folded search.
I hope
that when it will get to a cure for a disease, you will find more effectives
ways to get it. It may also be an eye opener for other things in life, you try
to solve.
|
Mr.
kosst_amojan
Why should I give you the formula?
Post it on the web is giving it away to all. I don't think that you would do it, or any body else would do it.
I gave some the final results, after they told me what equipment it connects and the length they need.
This is as far I'm willing to go. |
Mr.
glupson
In a market that is loaded with schemes, awkward tells of
directional wires, skin effect and many more, cables that goes for thousands
and tens of thousands of dollars, you really think that giving away this
formula is a brilliant idea, to satisfy your personal need to know?
Did
you ask for the formula from other
sources, that are in the industry and tell those awkward tells of
directional wires, skin effect and many more?
Most,
had buy the story (with the cable) without the formula! Because there is no
formula for those tells. The only formula they have is marketing and cash flow.
|
Mr.
khiak
Thanks. The data was passed to Mr. Rodolphe at Goldmund.
I assume that they will replay tomorrow or Mon.
Its is 6 pm now in Swiss, 7pm here in Israel.
Sorry for the delay... |
Mr.
han_n
The amp has no data on it's DF. I sent an e-mail to find that out.
I need that to do the calculation.
Regarding your bi-Wire, it is not a good idea. Bi amp and Bi wire: yes.
A single wire equal to the gauge of the bi wire combined, would do better than the bi wire. So this aproach is of no practical benefit. Did you say 4/0 AWG?
How much did they cost and who made them? |
Mr.
stevecham
I'm sorry you had nothing meaningful to contribute to this conversation. The thing is very simple. I can provide you with the data you need, of what cable would serve your system best.
Upon, you are welcome to try it and see for yourself.
What if that would sound much better than what you have now?
You should try it, rather than kick and shout sitting on the floor saying you don't want it. |
Mr.
geoffkait
What about finding yourself something useful
to
do?
All you contribute, are notes that has nothing to do with the subject. You can not chalange me on technical arguments, so you push it to none relevant subjects.
What do you gain of it, except getting a bad reputation?
|
Mr.
geoffkait
How low can you go?
Little errors lead to big errors - No more error talking to you!
|
Mr.
glupson
Thanks. If only we could keep talking on the subject.
Now most of the posts are none relevant. |
I assume,
that my word wouldn't count till now, from your lovely response.
However,
maybe this answer from a Swiss respected firm's engineer (CH), would:
"As a
loudspeaker cable of a few meters probably has an impedance of more than 10
mOhm, it might actually have a dominant effect compared to the amplifier's
output load, at full global feedback".
Even
thou in the case of the Gryphon Pendragon , none would apply. But Mr. Loris
Stehlé couldn't know that.
I'm amazed
that CH official answer didn't involved any of the most preposterous claims, of that cable's directionality,
the skin effect, the burn in or some of the even none relevant of your posts.
Why is
it so difficult for you to accept this?
|
Mr. han_n
I'd call CH Swiss to check about your M1 Amp.: " Dear Michael, Thank you for your interest in our
products.
The damping factor of an amplifier
being the ratio between the connected loudspeaker's impedance and the
amplifier's output impedance, we can not publish a single number.
We would need to publish a damping
factor for each possible load (like any amplifier manufacturer should), but
also for every setting of global versus local feedback ratio of our amplifier
(which is user-adjustable on the fly from fully global to fully local, with 9
evenly-spaced steps in between), as this setting has a direct effect on the
M1's output impedance.
At full global feedback, the M1's
output impedance is measured at 0.013 Ohm. So in a 8 Ohm loudspeaker, this
means a damping factor of 615.
At full local feedback (no global
feedback at all), the M1's output impedance is 0.09 Ohm. So in a 8 Ohm
loudspeaker, this means a damping factor of about 90.
As a loudspeaker cable of a few
meters probably has an impedance of more than 10 mOhm, it might actually have a
dominant effect compared to the amplifier's output load, at full global
feedback.
I hope this answers your question.
Best regards,
Loris Stehlé"
If we go for the best I would say that the M1 \'s DF is >500. But when I looked into your speakers: Gryphon Pendragon http://www.gryphon-audio.dk/media/1408/manual-pendragonv2.pdf
I found that the bass unit is self amplified by a 1,000W amp. It is connected to your Pre. by XLR and no speaker cable is required. The Mid/High unit is a ribbon. So a regular wire (12 AWG would do). Even thou your system is very expensive, you can save big on the cables. :-) The Bi wire - Bi amp on the Gryphon Pendragon
Mid/High unit won't give you any improvement. only cost way more, if you think of another pair of CH M1's ($37,000.- each).
|
Mr. shadowcat2016For your setup, a 2x0 AWG is recommanded. A 10 AWG has 10 times the resistance of a 0 AWG. The Bi-wire is a mistaken concept. A single wire that has the added thickness of the two of Bi-wire, would do better. If you would run this simulation on "Spice" you would see that. For the wire you have and the wire you need, it is x20 times worst. Whay do you say: " I’ll play, why not, I might learn something useful". This service (doing the calculation for you) is given for free. At least for now... :-) |
Mr. stevecham
Yes. 0.010 Ohm resistance is an excellent value for DF (output
resistance). Someone did a good design and built a $37,000.- amp to reach that.
Why to connect a cheap cable that would ruin it?
For
example, if you would connect a cable, that has a 0.005 Ohms (one red and one
black) that have a combined value of the same 0.010 Ohm, your DF would drop due
to those cables from 500 to 250.
That's
like paying for that amp $37,000 but enjoy only 1/2 of that. Most, use long an
thin cables that would reflect a resistance that would limit the amps DF by 80%
or more.
This
is paying $37,000 but using only $7,400 of its potential. The rest, $29,600
will wait for a better time when a
better
cable will come…if it will ever come.
|
|
Mr.
shadowcat2016
Please no "Sir".
Before
you spend some money on a 0 AWG speaker cable, I would recommend you an
experiment, that might cost you little of nothing.
Get your amp and speakers closer, to shorten the length from 15' to 7-8'. Try
to do (with great care and caution) a connection with two jump start cables, of 0 AWG (the
heavy duty type).
If that works for you, you may try to get a set for a good price.
I can recommend you my solution.
|
Mr. shadowcat2016
All with this hobby are male. If there is a women there,
please be kind to step up. During my 45 with this hobby, I never had an acceptation!
Well,
there was one. She came for the boys that played with this audio toys. Pretty
quick, she found a guy with a motorbike! Then she stopped her interest
in audio.
|
Mr.
shadowcat2016
I'll be happy to continue this conversation with you after you get the 0 AWG cables and you find the way the get them 2x 0 AWG into a standard binding post or banana plug, in a way it will last and not be a danger of loss contact or a short circuit over an amp. channel's output! |
Mr. glupson1
It is not that simple. As if it would, it would be an old story,
everybody knows.
In
some cases, when the DF is low, as it is often with Tube amplification, a thick
and short cable won't help.
For
amplifiers with other than A or A/B class (like D-class) it is also not
applicable. So it is with none coil speakers (as ribbon).
For
the main stream, that do use A/B class and coil loaded, there is a formula to
get an optimum thickness, based on the DF and cable length.
However,
it is most recommended to have the optimum thickness and length recommended.
Getting
thicker or shorter or both, above that optimum, would cost more, but not be of
any sonic benefit (improvement).
It is
rather recommended to keep the cable shorter, than get it thicker due to its
extra length.
|
Mr. geoffkait
In Israel the Military is compulsory. My older
daughter was dismissed as a lieutenant, than promoted in reserves to captain. My
younger daughter served at the NAVY as coast guard shift commander.
Lady's
as men can be Audiophiles. For some reason only men do. No lady's were found in
this hobby. If you find one, please let me know.
Maybe
the same reason why men die before their wives. Because they want to!
:-)
|
Mr. glupson
Not detrimental, but also no effective either.
Keep
in mind that it is very difficult to work with thick cables as 0 AWG.
It is
even more difficult to get a 2x 0 AWG or 4x AWG.
For
the length, every time the length doubles, so shall the cross section. So if
there is no other option, you will need double the thickness…
But if
there is an option, you better keep the cable length short.
Another
problem, with 0 AWG and above cables, is the weight they put on the binding
posts. That is no problem if the amp and speakers are on the floor.
But if
they get hanging 2' from ground, that might be a problem.
|
Mr. twoleftears
A
4/0 AWG or 0000 AWG has a cross section of "only" 2x a 0 AWG as well
as better resistance.
By the AWG table, the steps between two consecutive AWG cables is not twice as
good resistance.
When I write 2x 0 AWG, I meant two 0 AWG cables in parallel.
When I write 4x 0 AWG, I meant four 0 AWG cables in parallel.
If you could use two mono blocks, placed next to the speakers, or back to back,
it would be way thinner.
When
someone have a fireplace between the speakers and requires 20'+ to make the
distance between the amp. and the speakers,
It takes
the extra thickness, to compensate for the length.
The
cable resistance formula: R = ρ x L/S when
ρ is the cooper conductivity
(1.68x10-8), L is the length in meters and S
is the cross section in square mm.
If length
gets twice longer, so needs the cross section, to keep the same resistance: R
|
Mr. glupson
Regarding your say: " I am sure you have noticed the difference in attitude that other posters have towards your original post and ideas after you have started explaining your thoughts and giving practical examples", I
can't explain any of that attitude as long as we are dealing with a pure
technical thread. You can rather accept, decline or ask about it. What would
the attitude do with it?
I thought that we are all here because we like this hobby and would be happy to
do whatever it takes to get a better sound out of it.
This attitude mostly comes when some interest is involved. I don't care. Most
are getting a bit excited when cables issues are brought up.
I know well why the attitude changed all the sudden. I never expected it to go
well from the beginning. I needed to earn your trust as you don't know me.
Showing
off with my resume would help ether.
I
also had to keep my ground put, against all the "attitude stuff" to
pass that storm.
I came with a will to assist and I never changed that attitude. Some just
crossed the line, so I most likely won't keep answering them.
It will become really interesting when those who tried it out, will start
sharing their experience.
|
Mr. shadowcat2016
We
have a say in Hebrew: The beginning of an act shall be thinking ahead.
No,
the HD wire is not for us. It is too rigid. A car audio or some other stuff
would be better.
Some
car audio do not have the gauge they claim. I did a car audio project, needed
some 4 AWG kit and ordered one from the US.
The
actual cable that arrived was more like an 8 AWG!
I'll
repeat my say: After you hold a 0 AWG cable of whatever the length you need, how
are going to use it?
No
banana plug nor binding post can support it.
Soldering
a 0 AWG is not a good idea. By the time it will heat up to melt the tin, the plastic
cover will be melted at the ends...
A 0
AWG wire, when used in car battery applications, welding machines etc'. are crimped.
So with airborne and military applications.
To
press a 0 AWG cable shoe, a heavy duty tool is required. This entire thing can
become a project of its own.
Just
by getting a 0 AWG wire, you are not yet set.
If
you have no choice but to have a longer cable and it needs to be 2x 0 AWG, you need
more than that crimping tool. Much more.
There
is a reason why most speaker cables are not coming at that gauge and those that
does have a hefty price tag. All I'm asking, once you have the recommanded cable (as calculated) please be kind to share it here. Tell us please what cable it replaced and what were your listening impressions. Thanks.
|
Mr.
han_n
In your case (1,000W amplified bass tower and a ribbon mid/high tower), this issue is of less significance.
However, if we are here agin, As the CH M1 has a variable fedback (FB) control, what is your FB set, to have the optimum sound?
(on my conversation with CH, this was brought out up front, because as you can see from their reply, it has an effect on the DF). |
Dumping
Factor
If it is no good, why amplifier designers do the effort to make it high?
For the history of amp's, it all started with tubes. Tube amp's had low power
and low DF. They all need an output transformer to transfer high voltage / low
current, into some lower voltage and higher current.
Today, some Tube amps have more power (watts) but the DF remains low.
When
solid state (SS) was introduced, DF was one of the issues to tackle.
Amplifiers, not only audio, but in general, have a tendency to be made
with some basic spec's. to keep it ideal. The very first two are:
·
Infinite input
impedance (zero effect on source) and,
·
Zero output resistance (in
a way, an Infinite DF) that would ensure zero effect by the load.
Those
are the very basics of amplifiers in electronics.
That's
before flat FR, low noise (SNR), THD etc'. So for all who find DF (or Ro)
to be unimportant, why not look how it became a first in ideal amplification?
The
DF or output resistance can be achieved (by design) in several ways. Feedback
(FB) is one of them. Not the best way to get there, but a common one. FB is not
a bad thing in general, but may have bad
side effects when used too much or in a wrong way. One benefit of FB is to
stabilize the output at complex loads. That must be limited by FR to avoid oscillations.
The
others, are using very high current low R-on output devices (transistors) and a
very powerful power supply (PS).
Firms
like Naim, that have a method of using external PS, are paying a price on DF
with that approach. Most high power amps need more than one output device in parallel
to provide the power.
Some
designs emphasize one feature over the other, so as in life, it is difficult to
be spot on, on every parameter. When it does, it has a price.
Some
amplifiers behave bad on low speakers impedance. Most do not double output power
when load (8 Ohms) drops to half (4 Ohms) and quadruple when load drops to a quarter
(2 Ohms).
Some
would keep up even at 1 Ohm. If you think it is a good amplifier, what would
the Ro (DF) of such amp be, to keep it cool?
Amplifiers,
with different DF have different sound. Some like the laid back and relaxed
tube sound. Some (like McIntosh) would imitate it with SS topology but with an
output transformer.
For those who like it dynamic and vivid, a higher DF and power are required.
The
Amplifier – Speaker relation is more complex, as it is depends on the speaker's
load (8,4,2 Ohms!) the speaker's efficiency (dB/w/m SPL) and more. The cable
between the two are also playing
an important role. Some more and some less. The key for that role is the
amplifier's DF.
For
all who may think other, that's ok. Just be fair enough to bring a technical argument
to this conversation, rather than just a say aomething with no support. That's
an insult to intelligence.
All
those who add a link to some guru's article on the web, that support their say,
but the article has no technical support (no foundation to explain
that say), please don't. It's the same insult.
A
say with no technical support is no good on this thread. You need better.
|
Mr. mechans2
You have tube amplifiers, that's DF is not given by it's chiness spec. Your speaker's cable name do not provide me much data' of length nor gauge.
However, thick speaker cables do not apply to tube amplifiers. |
Mr.
khiak
Could you please provide me the serial numbers of your
Goldmund Telos 600 amplifiers?
Mr. Rodolphe from Goldmund Swiss asked me about it.
I'm waiting for his replay, but the S/N may help.
Thanks
It is a mystery that this second Swiss firm, with extremely high end products, dosn't provide the data on their DFs. |
Mr. khiakThe Goldmund Telos 600 does not specify the DF. Please be kind to check it up for me. The other data I need is the cable
required
length. Thanks |
Mr.
kosst_amojan
Beside
your unpleasant opening, you are missing the point by a mile.
I'm
not into design an amplifier with some desired or undesired DF. We all own it
already.
This
amp. we own, has a given DF. No matter how high or low it is.
The
subject of this thread is what speaker cables we need to connect that amp. to
the speakers.
Your
long lecture (more likely a show off in amplifiers build) is not on the subject.
As
so, you are welcome to open your own thread, about whatever you think is in
your interest.
For
my thread, none of your educated lecture is good.
|
My two cents on spades ending for speaker cables:
They tend to get lose after some time. A continuous maintenance of
fastening the binding posts is required. Banana plugs are way better.
For those who try to implement a thick cable (4 gauge or thicker), the
spades that can fit the cable are too large to fit the binding posts. You may
lose on that contact between the spade and the binding post some of what you
gain from a thicker cable.
For me, if an amp or speaker is not fitted for a banana plug, I'll would
avoid it!
|
Mr. conradnash
The thicker wire to fit a banana plug I know of, is 8 AWG.
You better check that the wires / cables are sold to you, are what they claim they are. I wrote on some car cable kit (US made) that were fake in size! they claimed a 4 AWG taht turned out to be an 8 AWG...
Try to keep the transaction between the thick cabe (4 AWG or 0 AWG), to the binding post as shord and of the the best qality.
Do not trust poor connections or lose once. Some of you here have too good equipment to risk it with a $100 DIY advanture. |
Mr.
kosst_amojan
We
will see when the first guys here will return after giving it a shot and share
with us their impression. A little patient and we are there.
I've
seen what happened with some friends who listened, didn't doubted me for a
minute, and ended up very happy.
|
Mr. kosst_amojan
What
is it you have about speaker cables? Nothing. It's all against, right?
What is it that you scrawl out under your stone all the sudden after six pages
of this thread is going on?
What
firm is that supporting you, that got all the sudden scared from being exposed?
At
the time you are shouting all over NO, you better come up with something to
explain this speaker cable mystery. In other word, please say what YES.
This
is the pasta party. Not the "Antipasti" party, which is a small pasta
with a negative attitude. This is mirror time.
What
"buying spots and clocks" has to do with this? You found
out that all the rest, like directional cables, burn in, cryogenic treat and
skin effect were un useful so you dig
the buying spots and clocks In a
forgotten drawer, never yet used with speaker cables, maybe it will work now?
|
Mr. stevecham This is your post: Amps: Manley NEO 250 monoblocksSpeakers: Thiel CS2.4I have correct speaker cables, for me, when I hear more than I’ve heard before and didn’t spend an arm and a leg to do so. Plus, the overall balance and stage are "just right."
1. The Manley NEO 250 monoblocks is tube amplification (not much of difference with Damping Factor Triode: 14.8). 2. Cable length is missing. 3. You claim: " I have correct speaker cables ". Is that a real request to get help with new cables? 4. At
the time, your posts were so aggressive, that I took the liberty to be polite
and ignore them. I’ll do say, that there is a no much sense in matching a Thiel CS2.4 to a Manley NEO 250! https://www.stereophile.com/content/thiel-cs24-loudspeaker-measurementshttps://www.manley.com/hifi/n250/That is a 4 ohms speaker and goes down to 2.73 ohms at 600Hz ! with 88dB/w/m SPL. one of the most difficult to drive. I hope you enjoy the Manley NEO 250 1.5% THD and its 14.8 DF vs. 2.73 ohms... In your case the cables are the last to worry about. |
Mr. khiak I sincerely apologize for the delay. Here is the answer of Mr. Rodolphe BOULANGER, of Goldmund from Swiss, arrived short while ago: 10:58 12/10/2018 (Israel time). "Dear Michael, email well received as well as S/N .
The damping factor is Telos 600 damping factor: 400 at 1 KHz, on 8 Ω.
I hope it helps.
Thanks. Best Regards. Rodolphe BOULANGER
Sales Director" For 1.5m long cable @ 400DF you will need a 4 AWG cable.
|
Mr. shadowcat2016
Thanks
for bringing it up.
As
you say, I asked no money, only offered an idea and some help. All for free.
No
one yet came back from a try with a fail or success, to prove me wrong nor right.
So,
I will join the question: Why?
PS.
Please check your dot key, on your keyboard. It seems to stuck occasionally. :-)
|
Mr. tobor007I’m impressed you had mentioned specs. What specs of the Kimber Kable (12TC) cables is the one that you think would make it a perfect match to your system (Amp. and Speakers)? Regarding the signal loss graph, I think that the vertical (x) should have been dB rather than m Ohms. Even then, it is a good sample of from where and why the skin effect might have came from… Kimber always used wire counter on their products. What would do, to make their cable prevail over others? That’s right: The skin effect. As no other makes it that way, skin effect would be a good marketing argument. Is it for real? NO. But those who fall in this scheme, can bring it up on my thread as a saying to earn more points on posts. From your post, the strongest saying is that you managed to get around with a $45 Chinese Kimber over an original for $750. Well done Sir. It reminds me a boy who came home and say to his dad: I just saved you $2.50. How come asks his father? I run after a bus rather than take a ride. Well said his dad: Next time you better run after a taxi and save me $25.- |
Mr. conradnash Please your kind attention: Here are two spades (I call them also cable shoes: an 8 AWG and a 1/0 AWG. I laid them on a $50 bill, for you to have true size and proportions. Both are quite a tight fit to the wires, to ensure best contact when crimped. https://imgur.com/a/wueD1lq https://imgur.com/a/RxDhvjz A 2/0 AWG is thicker than a 1/0 AWG. Never used a 2/0 AWG, but the gauge table: https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Say that a 1/0 AWG has a 8.25246 mm in diameter, and a 2/0 AWG has a 9.26592 mm in diameter. It’s 10% or 1mm thicker wire. I do not see a way that the flat side of that spade, even if you cut its front center out, is getting into a standard binding post. I only try to save you some disappointment, when you get to the "bridge" and want to cross it. I also would like to remind you, that the weight of a 2/0 AWG pulling down this spade from a binding post, is not the match I would like to see. Some guys here, have equipment accesses of $1/4M! I would not dear to risk in that way. Please use extra caution. |
Mr. khiak
Bi-wire is another urban legend, established in the 90’s. For a single cable at a X AWG is better than Bi-wire that the two, equals to the cross section or resistance of X AWG! This can be proved by simulation of the two circuits on "Spice". A cooper cable can conduct all audio frequencies at the same time. Some older TV designs, used wide band amplifiers, that would amplify two different frequency bande (IF and audio) to save.
As long as you are using your Telos 600, the wires need to be:
4 AWG@1.5m or
6 AWG@1.0m.
Can not find ant spec of your cables. Most are the Enigma...model. Also no Spec. |
Mr.
khiak
You are welcome. All I'm asking in return, that you share with us your impressions from that exchange. Thanks.
How much did you pay for a set of 2m Kharma KESL Speaker cable?
|
Mr. kalali The thick cable are separates. As so, no capacitance is developed.
Capacitance is defined as the dielectric value developed between two metal plates at a steady distance...
The cables are meant to be as short as possible. There are no extra wire on the floor that get coiled to create inductance.
The Z of such a cable, if any, is negligible. Because the R is so low, capacitance or inductance are negligible. Thank for your concern. |
Mr. grannyring My solution, as seen on one of my posts, was to use a short 8 AWG agent wire, between the banana plug and the thick cable.
It is also good for the strain relief on the contact point of the cable with the binding posts. Even if I would find a banana plug that could take a 0 AWG cable, I doubt it if I would use it. Keep in mind that it is difficult to work with a 0 AWG cable. It is very different then the ordinary 12-14 AWG cables. Don't twist the red and black cables. |
Don't
worry Mr. stevecham. It's all good.
There is a say in Russia, that the local made shoes are very good.
Until you buy an imported brand...(I'm not from Russia!)
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Mr. khiak
The
connectors you call BNC are not BNC!
GOLDMUND TELOS 600 : http://www.audiounion.jp/ct/detail/used/95826/
Or the last page of your GOLDMUND TELOS 600 RTFM.
BNC: https://www.iitk.ac.in/ibc/BNC.pdf
It looks more like an enlarge (not STD size, but very large) TNC.
GOLDMUND would be a good place to start with. I don't like this
"unique" approach. However, the TELOS 600 have also 4 ordinary binding posts.
I am kind of confused...how did you connect the GOLDMUND TELOS 600 with
your speakers till now?
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