New TV: what to do with TOSLINK optical output


Dumb questions incoming: I got a new TV that only has optical out, but I got no optical input on my Cambridge Audio 640A; Do I need a newer receiver or a dedicated DAC to convert the optical out to regular RCA? I see even the new CA receiver (851a) doesn’t have optical input.

Or should I swap to something like the hegel h90 or CA CXA80 with tons of optical inputs?
mrgreenfur
mrgreenfur

Yes, looking at the manual from your link, the default setting will be "auto". As I said previously, that will need to be set to PCM. Then the FiiO D03K DAC that I recommended will work. It comes complete with power supply for the $20.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

Most of the budget DAC's like this look and feel cheap, but not the FiiO D03K, it actually has a quality metal case and feels solid.

Tls49

That FiiO converter does not look bad either maybe for few extra dollars that maybe the way to go after all.

And if it does not pan out as its sold by Amazon free returns!
I'll grab one of those FiiO converters; I'd love the Hegel but I'm not sure I'll hear the difference and would rather save the cash. Thanks much for all your help tls & uberwaltz

I use this excellent Toslink cable:

https://btpa.com/TOSLINK-XXX.html

to go from my smart TV to this reclocker (which lowers jitter for dolby digital as well as PCM):

https://ifi-audio.com/products/spdif-ipurifier/

Then this low-jitter signal is sent using my excellent $275 BNC-BNC coax cable with adapters to my SS processor. It is important to have a 4 foot cable to reduce jitter from the cable. Incredible surround-sound for movies.

You could also cable to a PCM DAC, but I would use a Synchro-Mesh reclocker instead of the iPurifier if you only need PCM playback. Lower jitter.

Steve N.

Empirical Audio

Those really cheap $8 toslink to single-ended RCA convertors that uberwaltz is showing are basically really cheap garbage DACs.  mrgreenfur can certainly try one to see if the audio is acceptable, but it is definitely not going to be anywhere as good as a separate DAC or even a new receiver with toslink/HDMI inputs.  It's something you can try "for the heck of it".  If sound is bad, you can always upgrade to something else.

The FiiO D3 may be better than the $8 solution, but you still can only put so much into a piece of equipment for a $20 retail.

Another thing.  I know caphill like to present the idea of using an "all HDMI" receiver solution.  Keep in minds that audio transported through HDMI will never be as good as audio transported through digital COAX or even toslink.  It's definitely a convenience thing, but I would suggest getting a receiver that has a toslink input and find a really good glass fiber toslink cable (lifatec / Wire World / etc.).