Update on my Maplenoll tweaks. I have completed my tonearm construction and began the wiring for the arm. The arm is a yamamoto headshell attached to a carbon fiber tube(0.5"OD). The wiring is teflon coated silver wire(0.003") and will run from the headshell to the Phono stage. The arm is clamped to the air bearing spindle and is easily adjustable to set overhang. I have included a pic of the new tonearm on my system pics. Next step is to install/align the z-lift to provide an easy adjustment for VTA. This arrangement will improve the stiffness of the linear arm while providing an easier way to adjust vta. once complete, i will include the pics of the table mods on my system description. |
however it was the main air bearing sleeve which was missing when I got the table. Some nice man in Europe has the rest of the parts from the arm so at least it helped someone with their 'noll. I alos love linear air arms, but it just wasn't meant to be in this instance. I've considered an ET-2 or either of the beautiful more modern arms like the Kuzma, Walker, etc., I just haven't felt
the need to add yet more levels of complexity, etc. as
I've been fighting head amps and carts. Anyone else have
a radical tonal shift in their room/system when they change from analog to CD?
C'mon, you know that last statement made you smile... |
Once i moved up to a high pressure for the arm (45psig), I have not had any problem with the airbearing spindle. I have looked at your pics before and wondered why you replaced the air bearing arm. Thanks for the info. I do feel the arm is a weak link but i like the linear aspects of this arm and love the way it tracks. I have looked at ways to improve the vta adjustment and stiffness of the arm hence the tweak I am looking at. I agree the platform is excellent though a little crude compared to the beautiful tables being produced presently. But the sound stage IMO can not be found in any table in the price range you can get a used maplenoll (assuming you can find one). |
My bearing castings were a little rough. Corroded too. I was hesitant to
clean up much of the "rough cast" in the middles of the top
and bottom halves of the air bearing, as I read a looong time ago (Lumley?) that that very roughness helped by making the air more turbulent. As that memory is vague at best (I wasn't even doing analog at the time) I opted to not mess with that rough cast, thinking I could always clean it up more later. Turns out it works pretty well.
However, the wide surfaces that make contact when there is no air pressure can be cleaned up with good results. I used jewelers rouge on the flat surfaces and spun the top plate relative to the bottom plate to effectively polish those surfaces. Grit from fine sandpaper would work as well, but it's important to not sand them, you need to use the powder/grit/rouge between the plates to insure they stay consistently flush relative to each other. That seemed to allow it to float with less pressure, however it requires the table to be level
to do so efficiently and effectively. It will obviously still run at higher pressure as before, but it's not as critical to have the higher pressure to float the platter.
I also drilled and tapped two more holes in the base at 120 degrees apart the same distance as the original air inlet from the center to spread out the incoming air more evenly. That requires a little more drilling/relieving from the underside of the chassis to run the split hoses to from underneath. Make sure to re-level the bearing relative to the table upon re-assembly. Check to make sure the rubber washers between the bottom plate and the table are in good condition while you're putting it back together- you'll need them supple to take up the difference when you level the bottom bearing plate. Although a bit rough and crude, the original design wasn't too bad, but can be improved upon in these ways.
If this is "clear as mud" you can email me outside the forum.
I haven't contributed much during this thread as it has been concentrating mostly on fighting the original air arm
which I don't use for some of those same reasons. I do think the 'nolls are a neat platform that can be used as a
quite capable table, for pennies on the dollar compared to cost no object tables.
RFG |
Gf gumby:
Good to have you on board. Admired your work from afar.
Do you have any pic's of your work on the lower plate of the air bearing ? Please be a tad more detailed re: "clean up of the casting helped ". Thanks |
yeah, Probably will need a hangover remedy! You might be right about the freeplay but the design i am looking at has the ability to lock the lift against the rack and support system. That is the beauty of this effort, it can be changed back if it does not work! |
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/1223976996043163733nokXJH
I'm quite a bit late in this thread, but I've been watching
it for a few months now. I have some stuff which might be of interest.
Here is a Sig Ariadne that I did some revision on. Extra holes in the air bearing and some cleanup of the casting helped. A rework of the air distribution and inline regulator and filters as well as a gauge and an air switch.
Yes, I feel the original air bearing linear arm is a relatively poor design and I needed a piece in the air bearing whcih I could not reproduce. So out went the air
linear arm and in went a unipivot (I'm sure a few purists will be gesticuluating and sobbing, but it really made it
a better table). I may consider going to a modern air bearing arm at some point, but I'm currently happy with the results.
The pics are a few years old, many changes in TT stand etc. have been made. The dehydrator and air regulators and dryers have been retained, but I decided to run the
air from a standing compressor in my garage. Probably the best decision I've made yet with this table. Also now changed is the foot arrangement which now have large knurled spiked pods but retain the original threads into the table, and the left side leveling knob.
With the addition of addional air holes in the platter air bearing, it is easily floated with about 4 psi and not too much air volume. I machined up some extra center pins for the air bearing out of Delrin- if the table isn't exactly level the original will wear out suprisingly quickly.
By the way, replacement Hurst motors are available from Hurst online for about $50.
RFG |
"that can easily be adjusted for hangover."
I can recommend an easy adjustment for increased "hangover" but the decrease of same is not so easy. But then maybe you meant "overhang." ;-)
Seriously though, you may find that suspending the airbearing manifold on the z-lift is a sonic compromise. Bob Dilger made a few mega tables with separate plinths for platter, arm and motor and was surprised at the improvement. If you could make an arrangement where the manifold was mounted on its own massive plinth which was then mounted on the z-lift I think you'd find an improvement but you'd probably have to make a new platter pinth as well to accomodate the logistics. |
I am getting prepared to try the carbon wand on the maplenoll. I have recieved a z lift and clamp system that will allow for easier and more accurate VTA adjustment. The headshell is coming but have not recieved yet. Once completed, the wand will be a carbon fiber that will be clamped at the airbearing spindle that can easily be adjusted for hangover. The clamp will be installed via the two screws that hold the current vta adjustment bracket. THe clamp will provide a rigid connection between the armwand and the airbearing spindle. As for the zlift, I will mount the airbearing spindle housing on it. It has rack/pinion drive that can be adjusted and locked to provide a stable foundation for the airbearing arm. The rack/pinion can make very fine adjustments and with the scale, should be able to set for various record thickness making optimization a little easier. I do not know if i can do on the fly adjustments but in theory should be able to. I have a very fine thread system as part of the rack to allow for very subtle adjustments. I should have installed before end of October, so I will keep you informed. At this point, i will use a hollow tube versus packing. Not sure yet if that will create resonance issues. My tonearm wires will be silver thread from Phoenix wire. Its teflon coated and very limp. THanks for the tip on soldering. Scraping the teflon off made the difference. Once i get it tuned, (assuming its not a dog!), i will send pics. |
Oilman: I received 2 arm wands from ET. One appears to be a "prototype" silver in color the other a more typical looking arm wand ; they are 6" in length. More to say about them later when I have had some time with friends to explore there potental. Sorry, neither is carbon-fiber. |
2nd Note: A quick-fix to finding a pointed fine threaded bolt : Go to Home Depot , find a metal toggle bolt package , many contain pointed fine threaded bolts as part of the toggle bolt assembly. Buy a toggle bolt package ,remove the pointed fine threaded bolt that holds the toggle bolt assembly together , cut and burnish the pointed bolt to size as a replacement for the 'Noll paddle. |
Note: A pointed fine threaded bolt (minus the head) works equally as well. A short piece of tubing slid over/down the top of the bolt can replace the locking nut. The sum total weights less than the factory locking nut/paddle that may or may not be an advantage regarding compliance factors with certian cartridges. |
I have found that one can change the sound using the oil trough by slightly lowering the oil fill line and replacing the oil paddle with a pointed screw . The pointed screw glides thru the oil bath with less effort; the highs seem to improve. I replaced the oil-bath with Amsoil synthetic 5w-30 in the trough. |
Agree with the comment about overdampening. I found that out as I struggled to find the right viscosity oil for the trough. Too low viscosity was like no dampening but when i went to a more viscous oil the highs disappeared. I off set by adding more vta but when I moved, i tried a lighter viscosity and found a good balance. I like the design of the walker for two reasons, I tend to slosh the oil onto the record (specially when I have one too many johnny blues!) and the tapered end along with the adjustable oil level would make fine tuning dampening easier. Not sure of the impact of the end of the arm versus the cartridge end however. So far, I just have a few ideas to try. |
I have never found the oil trough position to be a problem but I am the opposite of all thumbs. However, Lloyd insists, despite Pierre's and Bob Dilger's insistence to the contrary, that the trough sounds better behind the arm rather than at the cartridge end; thus Lloyd's positioning on his Proscenium.
BTW, super glue is particularly usefull because of it's capillary action insinuating itself into the otherwise inaccessable wee spaces within the arm joints. Strength per se is not the issue. Firming an already strong but possibly resonant joint is.
Dampening the arm is not necessarilly a good idea. Over dampening and killing dynamics and liveliness is a clear and present danger. |
Oilman: Anything that is forwarded by ET that can be considered an improvement shall be openly shaired. |
please let me know about the wands. I have a couple of graphite tubes that I had made so I would love to compare to his design. Once i get the VTA clamp built, I will send you one to see if you like it. It will be similar to the one used on the walker table that will allow the arm tube to extend past the spindle thus allowing for a ridgid clamp between the armwand and the air bearing spindle. this also eliminates tedious adjustment for overhang on the cartridge. I am still looking at how to design the dampening trough so it does not have to hang over the record. Again will be something similar to the more current type designs. |
Oilman :
I spoke to Mr. Thigman who declined for business/cost reasons to participate ;however, he is forwarding some arm wands that may or may not fit w/o modification.
Mr. Thigman did advise that I his knowledge base is confined to his air bearing arm and that dispite claims on the internet , he actually had no personal involvement in the development of the Noll lineup. |
Oilman: A suggestion . Eminent Technology is currently selling a carbon fiber wand for the ET 2.5 Tone-Arm for $400. Perhaps , Bruce Thigman would consider making a modification of his tone-arm to fit the maplenoll ? Bruce's knowledge-base is significant regarding the Maplenoll Tone-Arms. His email is brucet@eminent-tech.com Should he respond in the positive , I too would be interested. He also has developed tone-arm wire second to none for airbearing arms. |
Oilman : For soldering , take a piece of 400 wet sand paper gently brush off the laquer on the ends of your wire. Check wire for continuity. Use a Radio Shack soldering holder (maybe available online) make a tight mechanical connection touch the phono plug with a 30 watt iron , touch the iron with the thinest silver solder --There you have it. I have had great sucess with the new battery operated solder devices but take care the carbon-type tips crack and keep a hand full of replacement batteries nearby. |
Crem
Thanks, I truely value yours and piedpipers comments. Everyone of the ideas you and him suggested that I tried has worked like a champ. I continue to ask a lot of questions about the maplenoll tables to learn what people have done and how it has worked out. I especially like the mod piedpiper made which moved his motor from the noll plinth. I am also very interested in developing a carbon fiber arm but I am still struggling learning how to solder the fine wire necessary to make these arms work well(just not good with real steady hands). I do have the prototype arm with a graphite headshell. I am working on a type of clamp and VTA adjustment similar to the walker table that will eliminate the looseness in the arm. Thanks again for the advice and ideas |
Oilman:
My reaction to the Air Bearing advice presented to you is to recall a conversation with Lloyd Walker on several of the same issues. Mr. Walker warned me that those bearing plates have been hardened and are subject to distortion or shattering should they be put on a lathe and turned. As for manufacture to a slightly larger size, the estimates I got were beyond my means. They exceeded the cost of the entire table.
A reader of the postings emailed me to express his tale of woe . According to him he purchased a Maplenoll on Audiogon only to have it delivered damaged . Besides cosmetic issues, the top plate spindel was bent so he attempted to have it repaired. The machinist heated the plate not knowing it had previously been hardened and the top plate went out of true and can not be repaired. Now he's stuck with an unplayable table.
Some of the Tonearm suggestions are interesting. I have a feeling that your friend has mistaken the alignment problems I spoke of in other posting in this thread as manufacturing problems. Nevertheless, his comments are worthly of follow-up.
Lastly, I have received some experimental compounds via a manufacturer that are claimed to deadened vibration(s) on contact. I haven't cracked the cans but intend to "play" with the stuff. |
I posted a thread on the audioasylum and got a similar theme in that it was focused on improving the air bearing platter and tonearm. here are his comments. He has a signature model versus the standard model I have
Next thing to do is buy some real high quality air regulators to replace
the cheap ass screw valve which comes stock. I've tried various brands,
but have found that the Binks brand are more stable than most of the
others. I have 2, one for the platter pressure and another for the platter
pressure. I have the air pressure regulators and their gauges set into a
panel on the front of my TT stand, so that it is easy to see, and easy to
adjust. You'll need one that is low pressure for the arm, which runs
around 3 PSI. The other one will depend upon which arm manifold that you
have, either 20 to 25 PSI or 40 PSI. I have the higher pressure arm
manifold (Signature version #2) so I went with the highest quality Binks
model specifically designed for 20 to 50 PSI. The regulators were around
$75 each. Gauges were around $30 each, again Binks models.
If you haven't noticed, air quality and regulation is VERY important. Keep
this in mind.
I made a custom Purple Heart plinth for mine, that is 6 inches thick, which
really opened up the table ... much better than the original plinth. This
wasn't cheap. I gave my cabinet maker friend my plinth for a month to make
it all align perfectly. (You have to be sure that they realize just how
important 1 or 2 thousandths of an inch is in this case. (Although I
always wondered just how acurate the factory was ...)
As far as the arm is concerned, there is plenty that should be done. I had
a machine shop place a .002 spiral groove throughout the arm to improve
stability. Stock, there is just the air fitting and nothing else. Oh, be
sure that they have the arm tube and that the champhere the rough edges, of
course.
Replace the stock arm tube with Thompson Shafting. Any good machinist will
be familiar with Thompson Shafting. It has .001 run out in a 20 foot
length. It will not bend or distort like the stock hollow shaft does.
(This is why many Maplenoll arms will bind, and/or have tracking issues
half way through a record).
My stock arm tube was filled with a polymer type sound deadening material,
sourced from an old friend who works for NASA. It came in a plain brown
wrapper, so I'm sorry that I can't be of more help. I also wrapped the arm
tube with black duct tape, which really tightened up the focus and deepened
the stage.
I had a carbon fiber arm tube made for me by a friend who has an archery
store. (They use carbon fiber arrow shafts at $100 to $200 EACH!) Anyway,
he made me a carbon fiber arm tube from a broken arrow shaft that is really
interesting. Once again, it is duct tape wrapped for improved staging and
focus.
It's funny that Lloyd recommended using "Super Glue" on the arm/VTA adust
connection. I hope that he at least recommended the good stuff that
actually works that is horribly expensive. I used a very small amount of
JB Weld in that area. JB Weld is amazing stuff, and it is much, much
stronger than Cyanoacrylate.
The stock platter bearing needs to be "trued" by a competant machinist. Get
both plates trued. It cost me somewhere around $30 (in 1990's money) to
have them trued by a machinist friend. If you really want to get tweak,
have another platter bearing made with more surface area.
I am taking a little break from my tweaks but I have some interesting ideas to follow up on. Thanks again for all the thoughts. |
Oilman: I have uncovered another area that needs investigation -- The Bearing Platter . The Maplenoll Manual states " The air Bearing Platter is the heart of the turntable . It is incredibily simple consisting of only two parts ... ". Actually , that statement is partially accurate. The platter bearing consists of three parts : top , bottom and center pin. The center pin is the weak-link in the system. The center pin's were poorly manufactured , wearout in time and most that I have viewed have "side-swing" , the platter moves ever so slightly off-center . Lloyd Walker in his 6 moons interview had a veiled comment to the problem as a fatal flaw equally as important as the failure of the air-control systems for the entire 'Noll line-up. My interm solution was to re-manufacture the center pin to more exacting standards and have a couple dozen on hand so I can put a fresh pin in the bottom bearing plate whenever one starts to wear (yearly). I'm rethinking the whole matter trying to come up with a center pin that would be more akin to the improvements made to a '301 or '401 with a replacement brass bearing . Not the same just extracting the "essence" of improvement and extrapolating that into a 'Noll . A fuzzy - head thing buts that what I do best -- sometimes. |
Oilman: The exciting element(s) for me is the learning curve ... Its the "sound" experience" that may help me find other suitable adaptions to apply to the 'Nolls. For instance:
One element that is becoming clearer is speed control ; That is one strength of the TW Acustic Raven One TT which I have been listening to. I have discovered platter speed is a weak link in the 'Noll when compaired to the '301, '401 and TW Raven.
The 'Noll motor is off-da'-shelf that needs replacement for future advancements. An AC Speed Controller is another critical part of the sonic landscape ,as is the removal of the motor from the plith. Recently, I located a potential motor replacement that far exceeds the stock 'Noll spinner.
Let me be clear ,I believe that there are limits to the mods that can be performed ... Should I want a Raven buy one not a 'Noll. Likewise, I think the distance between some 'Nolls and other tables can be shortened. How far who knows.
One matter I am certian, the spring/suspended 'Nolls have finite limilts that the unsuspended 'Nolls do not. More to come. |
yeah there is a long string on this subject on this forum. both strain gauge system as well as walker are above my zone at this point. Guess i have to do with my tweaking the noll |
Oilman : What I outlined is essentialy an expensive phono system called a strain gauge that includes a preamp . For particulars see www.soundsmith.com ; outragious price but the most involving analog experience I have experienced. Certianly above my $$ range but not everyone. |
couple of walker tables advertized in that price range. I do not know anything about either one, but reviews are consistent about walkers product |
Threaders : Quick bomb. Should have the big Mo'Money go buy or audition the Soundsmith Strain Gauge package $6 -14K. The impact is beyond anything you have experienced. Draws the listener into a world of sound that is hard for me to express. Ruthlessly revealing . It's not for the weekender without the time for record cleaning and perfect set-up. An experience unlike all others in playback. Oh, check-out S/S cartridge or rebuilds. Lots for a couple of bucks but way down the line to the sound of the Strain Gauge. The web site, w's. soundsmith.com |
Thanks Oilman , looking forward to your advances in the future. |
Crem1
I know what you mean about taking a break from the tweaks. I still have a ways to go to catch up to you and piedpiper but sometimes you just got to play the music for a while. However, the sound from this table is great. People who come over are astonished to hear the quality of the music. I have had more than one person question the quietness of the analog until they heard my table with a clean record and clean stylus. Now that I am finished with my move, I will look to finish my new wand and headshell project. It won't be a black diamond arm but hopefully a close clone |
Threaders :
My Airadne rebuild has come to close , at least for now . The air control system is complete. Currently the air regulators dials show a constant air pressure of 43 PSI , the arm appears to operate better that ever -- sonic images float with nuances and timbers rivaling many analog platforms for a fraction of the price.
I want to be very up-front about this re-ferb. Firstly, I did not reinvent the wheel , nothing of the kind. I give all the credit to informatiom from print sources , the internet, L. Walker, B.D., P.S. and good 'Goners like you.
The result? I was able to collect and verify the effectiveness of dozens of tweeks the majority I applied to the table , tonearm , air control system and isolation of the table from electrical and mechanical vibrations.
A most significant tweek was to dynamicly balance the lead platter . The trick is to turn over the platter and using extreme caution sand out the micro abrasions and ripples until you can run your finger nails across feeling nothing. No small feat . Remember you are sanding lead so be forwarned safety gear is a must. Depending upon the condition of the platter 400-1500 ga wet-sanding may do the trick . Wet sand the record touching surface , rim-edges if micro-abrasions are evident. Dry and repaint the platter top and sides only . Leave the back as is . Dynamicaly balance and BAM BAM !!! What a difference. More problems lay hidden on the back side of the lead platters than has been published save Lumley 24 years ago.
I shall contiune the 'Noll quest and more is in the mix : Perhaps a custom phono cartridge & set-up , new arm wans but for now I want to enjoy the music. Cheers |
Same type of pump only a larger version. The smaller pumps may not be able to put up the pressure. This one puts up about 5 psig. By the way, it is a Rena 400, i mis typed earlier. |
Answering my own question, I got one of the cheap pumps from Walmart and it didn't budge my platter; not enough psi I guess. |
What is the difference between the cheap $10 aquarium pumps from Walmart and the Renn? |
yes, as a matter of fact did. It did cool the compressor. I was content with that until I moved and ended up with a spare air pump that I was using in a Koi pond at my last location. Decide to try it on the platter and found my cycle time on the big compressor dropped significantly because even at 5 pgig on the platter, it was using most of the air. I did not measure the flow but the cycle time dropped by 50% easily. Also this allowed me to beef up the system to the arm to run 50 psig. I have run it higher but much above 50 on my spindle you can start hearing the leak across the bearing. But I find the performance is better near 50 psig. I understand I also may need to "clean" out my spindle and arm if the air has not been properly filtered. |
Piedpiper : Have you checked your air control system , ACS( pleniums , filters and air/water seperators , hoses ,etc.) for leaks ? At 35 PSI that's 10 under what the super quite pump produces. Give 3 PSI for the platter than there is a 7 PSI lost somewhere. My experience has been that air leaks occurr with more frequency as the ACS expands. To assist in locating those leaks , Kano Labs sells an superior leak finder,Bubleak, for about $14 delivered (www.kanolabs.com.)
Case in point> a homemade air filter sprang a leak (again) ; the air regulator displayed a 4 PSI dropp in pressure to the arm manifold. I replaced the air filter and the pressure was back to 41 PSI.
Oilman : Have you tried placing a fan nearby the air pump ? The running fan can reduce the temp of the pump. |
Thanks Oilman. I've been meaning to get a second pump but didn't want to spring for a serious one. |
It was the Renn model 400. About fifty bucks, it is a small quiet oil-less air pump that is designed to run continously. |
'smy experience too. What pump 'dyou get? |
IMO, the arm performance at 45 and 50 psig is improved. I used a diaphram, oiless fish aquarium pump for platter. puts up about 5 psig and can run continously for weeks so its pretty reliable (and cheap). |
That's my plan as well. The problem is that the two of them take too much air and it's hard to get the pressure up sufficiently on the arm. Mine's running about 35 psi and I'd like to get it over 45. |
Crem1
I took a little different approach even though it was one more piece of equipment. I hooked up a separate pump to the platter and left my large/high pressure for just my tonearm. Both systems have filters and pulsation bottles as you have described. I did this because running my larger compressor for the tonearm and platter was making my compressor run a little hot. So far very pleased with the results |
Piedpiper : Thank you . I will post more details soon. |
congratulations! I'll be very curious to find out more details. |
Threaders: After weeks of "trial an'error" , today I had a flawless 5 hr test run of the air control system (ACS).
To summarize, the system produced 41 PSI running to the arm manifold and 2-3 PSI to the 50lb. lead platter . Its dead quiet with all pleniums, oil-water separators , air regulator/filter/control mech. and filters working so the end product is clean, dry air w/almost no oil smell and no air pulse-sations. The home-made airfilters were filled with carbon & zeolite granules capped under and over w/"aquia-Pure" 100 percent polyester fiber filter cut to size.
My estimate is the whole-shee-bang cost me $200 but what an improvement. Lots more to come . Today was only a test. Lots more to do with the table/arm and possible big surprizes w/cartridge.
In the future I intend to post pics after I master the use of a digital camera. |
Piedpiper : The benefit is that we now have two options , rather than one . Thanks for the input. |
I have, over time, re-aligned my manifold several times when I have worked on the table, but only for asthetic reasons. Again, if you use the alignment pin to anchor the right end of the overhang guide, then what you're saying is correct. I am just pointing out that it is possible to not anchor the guide with the pin and, although it is slightly trickier, you can align the overhang and tangency by swiveling the alignment guide, anchored only at the spindle end, at the same time as moving the cartridge on the headshell until the stylus is aligned all the way along the line, while keeping the alignment guide stationary, once you've found the appropriate position. Although this is evidently tricky to communicate, it is quite easy to do and precludes having to make the adjustment you're talking about.
Sorry to invoke such long winded confusion. I just thought it was worth mentioning. |
Piedpiper :
Lets re-think.
For visuals look at your owners manual page 7 , fig 6. , Tonearm/Spindle Layout. All Graves reported is that if your air manifold that holds the spindle is ever so slightly cocked to the "northerly" ( to the top of the page) or southerly ( to the bottom of the page) , the Tonearm/Spindle's relationship to the alignment guide has changed.
In a cocked position , the tonearm's relationship to the fixed position of the alignment guide is off, thereby, all other adjustment's are subject to error. Bring the manifold into proper square in relationship to the plith changes the tonearm's-headleshell's relationship via the fixed position of the alignment pin, thereby, all headshell cartridge adjustments made are now more accurate with less a chance for error.
Less error , less distortion, less cartridge wiggel more music. A fraction of a degree change in the position of the arm manifold ( ie squared) is the key to extracting the last ioda of sound from the 'Noll.
Graves noted that this and other adjustments need to be re-checked. A protractor/ruler or a T a square make the job a breeze. One can even "eyeball" the adjustment.
The challenge is getting access to the bolt-heads on the underside of the plith that usually means breaking the table down to make the adjustment easier to complete, re-assembleing the table before the other adjustments pages 8-15 can be completed. |
The operative here is how you use the overhang adjustment guide. If you use it the way I do, only in relation to the arm traverse and spindle, the issue you're talking about becomes irrelevent, in that the only thing that matters is whether the cartridge is aligned with the arm traverse and the spindle, not to the plinth. |
