Well, I have completed my refinishing of the lead platter. I turned and balanced the platter. I decided not to grind down the outside dimensions to correct a couple of Dimples in the lead. Instead i used epoxy to fill the holes and then sanded the surface to true it up. I repainted the platter with a good grade of acrylic paint. Looks pretty good once finished. Now got to get some help in mounting this beast on my airbearing platter. I also fabricated the center pin out of teflon. I have two grades of teflon. one is the standard formula and one is an infused teflon that has some materials to improve its abrasion resistance. I will say the teflon is very smooth. I am not sure what the original pin is made out of. I also installed my walker valid point on the table. The airbearing block has been attached to the zlift so i now have the on the fly VTA on this table. I am working on the armrest and lifter since this particular model did not have either. My dampening system is still being designed, but i will once again install below the air bearing spindle versus the headshell. This is very similar to the Walker table though my design is not as elegant. The armwand materials are not in yet, but i will use a carbon fiber wand (xxstrength versus standard carbon tube. I also plan to run the wire in separate quadrants in the tube to minimize interference. I have found that the moving the wires just a little bit impacts hum in the phono preamp. The separate quandrants should help that as well as working on grounding issues between the table and the phono preamp. I will work to fill the internal cavity of the tube to minimize any possible resonance along the interior cavity of the tube. I am still looking at how to extend the fine wire from the cartridge clip to the preamp. the really fine wire is great for minimizing impacts to the floating of the armwand but is hell when changing cartridges (my fat fingers tend to snap the fine wire). My last solution was to solder the fine wire to a din connector then use high grade cartridge clips and wire to connect to the din connector. I will say however, the best sound comes from minimum connections from the cartridge tip to the phono preamp. My pump system will be my JunAir compressor i currently use on my existing table. I will initially get the unit up using the motor attached to the plinth. I am still looking at ways to design the motor in a separate plinth. I am trying to find a source for the corian so i can build one out of corian to match the table. The motors are pretty small but the plinth needs to have enough mass to hold the motor securely and absorb all of the vibration from the motor. I will have some initial pics this weekend |
Charlie--Thanks for your insight on the platter. I agree that resurfacing will be a challenge. I first have to understand the alloy then i can find a shop to do it. I found an article from another website on a rebuild of a maplenoll athena from 1999 and he also indicated the issues with the platter. I have an old set of platters in the bunch of spare parts to play with first. Fortunately with my connections in the oil business and a brother in law who is a mechanical engineer with a specialist degree in materials, i hope to find the right place to resurface. I know it can be done because it was originally polished smooth. as for the lead platter, the signature is 90lbs of lead and as you highlighted, will be a chore in trueing up. This platter is bunged up also so i have work to do there. I will most likely outsource that as you did to get it truely level and balanced. That makes a great deal of difference. The other thing i have found is the spindle is not perfectly true. I will see what i can do with that also since it must be perfectly 90degrees to the air bearing plate to prevent the record from wobbling. An interesting find in the bag of extra parts. One of the air bearing spindles is grey in color and appears to be a different version as my signature or reference spindles. in addition, it is much smoother and glides in the sleeve pretty good even without air. Not sure if a surface treatment was done on it. but I will swap it out on my new project. damn i love these tables:^) |
Oilmanmojo : What you have shaired is quite exciting news.
The platter and the air bearing plates I devoted much time and effort. A few ideas I wish to pass on:
My platter's underside, showed signs of wear perhaps a result of gravity's "pull" loaping the edges and creating wear rings where the top plate rested.. The bearings are undersized to support large slugs of lead for decades.I relate(from observation) the top bearing plate's size (or lack thereof) allows some of the underside of the lead platter to be unsupported creating potental stress points where gravity's pull ,over time, could affect the trueness of the platter. Most of these all-lead platters have been a top undersized air bearing plates for 20-25 years, perhaps, enought time for gravity to do its job. Storage of the platter ,other than on its flat sides, could also affect its trueness.
Lead is a soft metal that is not as stable as say steel. Heavy casted lead parts do deform over time no matter what one does. Its size, weight, design & fuction all relate to lead's ability to hold onto its casted shape as I was to learn.
During my rebuild process, I learned that the platter did have casting defects (covered over by thick black paint-presume lead based paint) that were only resolved by spin balancing ,on a lathe, "trueing", out foundary defects with hand sanding and a lot of care. Quite a messy job that I did outsource to a professional. The platter now spins true without "wavey-ness" as it revolves.
Lloyd Walker conversted years ago , that the 'Nolls air bearing plates are "hardened" cautioning me they might shatter should they be afixed to a high-speed lathe for truing, or crack if harshly handeled/sanded. Sometime later, a dealer emailed that he purchased a 'Noll damaged in transit. He brought the parts , taking them to a machine shop for repair. He wrote the shop attempted to true the plates ,cracking them in the process.
Oilman, just passing this along for whatever value it may hold for your rebuild.
I am looking forward to your design of a outboard motor unit. Perhaps we can all benefit from your work. |
Charlie--Good to hear from you. missed your comments in recent weeks. Hope you are doing ok. I know you had some health issues. As for the centerpin. I am having some manufactured out of teflon(two types) so if you or others have a need, i will have some replacements. I am studying the Piedpiper mods and will work to develop a plinth for the external motor. As you state, it will not be an easy project but if i can use the existing motor and create the path for the belt, I might go that way. Still deciding on path forward. I also am modifying the stock arm to install my on the fly VTA and improved armwand/Headshell. I did learn an important lesson though it is costly. The bottom plate levelness/Flatness is critical. The table I purchased was not moving smoothly when the air was put on it. I swapped out my existing table bearing plate and walla, it is moving well. The heavier platter requires more air pressure to float (can not use my cheap aquarium pump) but it now turns easily. With the "slightly" warped bottom plate, it took a lot of air to float and was noisy. I will get the bottom plate refinished and resurfaced to make it useable. I have decided I will take my old table and refurbish similar to your approach and my arm modifications and sell it. I also have a bunch of spare parts to build my own version of airbearing table and arm. A project for the future. I will send some pics soon. |
Oilmanmojo: Sorry to take so long to reply. My 'Noll is near completion . Piedpiper and I have discussed options on a custom motor mount build .
A learning curve bump. I did purchase a complete outboard motor unit in excellent condition only to learn:
1. Size does matter . Its a challenge if the motor unit is not exactly the right height via the platter height for a belt to wrap around the platter, or to utilize in the space between the top plate bearing & bottom of the platter for belt placement. And,that's besides determining between a pre-made or home-made type belt & pully.
2. Stability is dependent on motor's ability to spin that lead slug ; unfortunately , the outboard motor unit I purchased could not "pull" that much weight. There's a reason the hurst motor was used.
Oilman, I did make an effort to have a ceramic center pin made, only to find no one interested in developing them for such a small market. I do have a few plastic center pins made years ago; one could serve as a template or a replacement. That center pin is the weakest part of our tables. Feel free to e/m or call , as you choose. |
yes. It helps to have a very heavy bottom on the mount. I started using 3 large brass cones and then when I went with the mail tube casing I inserted a large chunk of steel to be eventually replaced with lead shot. The string is more rigid than the rubber belt but I couldn't do a direct comparison seeing as the repositioning of the motor necessitated using a belt that was far longer than any rubber one I've been able to find. I've considered getting one of AJ Conti's precision ground super thin rubber belts from Basis to try it. He swears by them, in contrast to the common wisdom that rubber belts are the work of the devil. The large lead platter should take care of some of the various issues at stake. |
thanks,It appears pretty simple. I am assuming that tension is set by how far away you put your motor from the table. How does the thread work compared to the standard rubber belt? |
It's pretty simple. You just need to remove the bolts that hold the lead motor mount plate and create some sort of mounting for it that can be positioned at the correct height to accommodate the belt going over the plinth and under the platter, assuming that your pulley is designed to work with the subplatter rather than the platter itself. If it is the higher speed motor that interfaces with the platter rather than the subplatter then it is easier. In either case you must find or make a much longer belt and possibly a different pulley to accommodate it. I use a thread but have heard good things about audio tape. Either one requires turning a new pulley, which I've done on my lathe. Obviously getting the size exactly right is critical for speed accuracy unless you have a speed controler. I'll be constructing such a motor mount soon for Crem1. |
Thanks. If you would be willing to share some details around your motor isolation, i would appreciate it. Since i have a table that is working pretty good, I do want to take this time to modify the signature to capture some of the ideas that have been discussed on this thread. Your motor isolation is one that has not gotten discussed much but seems to be a great modification. I will have to set up an air system with this table but a lot of that is already discussed earlier in the thread. |
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Charlie
Have not heard from you recently. How is your project going. I just purchase a used signature and have recieved part of it today. I will comment (similar to piedpiper) that the plinth on the signature is a much more professional piece of work. This machine will require some work to get it up and running well. In particular, i am interested in your approach to the center pin replacement. The center pin in this one is shot. I believe there is a replacement in the spare parts box that has not arrived yet. I looked at the thread several times but can not find the reference to the center pin. I believe you were going to replace with delrin versus teflon or plastic.
I will also replace the stock leveling spikes with valid points or still points as the existing spikes are deformed due to the weight of the table. Also, the tonearm is kind interesting. It is more stable that the one on my reference table but it is not a thing of beauty. It appears that an aluminum tube was pressed to form a headshell that that became the armwand. I will try it out before I modify it, but I like my method of adjusting vta on the fly and the overall appearance of the carbon fiber arm and wood headshell. Also, this table does not appear to have a tonearm lift so i will need to make one for it. I shake too much to handle the arm directly
Overall, it is a beautiful table that i will enjoy modifying. I will post some pics as i get this one up and running |
FYI : I have been corresponding with the motor housing source in Hong Kong , and between Piedpiper & I . After, many weeks of questioning , it does appear that we may have a go with the soft motor mount. More soon. |
FYI: I located a soft iron motor mount in Hong Kong that "may" work with the 'Noll. It weights 5 lbs. before lead weights and could work with Pipedpipers mods. I requested information regarding sizeing and other "Q's". |
Piedpiper: A rim drive ? Now, that's interesting / exciting. I'm looking forward to whatever you discover in rim drives & motor mounts. |
Crem,
just back from RMAF and back in the saddle. Still very busy but exploring ideas for motor mounts. I'll be redoing mine and in the process refine my ideas for yours. I'm also considering a Teres Verus motor/rim drive, available in two heights: 4.3" or 6.1". Could be an interesting way to go. |
FYI : I'm awaiting on Piedpiper to have some free time to construct the motor mount. For now, my Rig is down . All tube gear and some digital are at Eric Falkehan's shop for inspection and repair should that be required. This is preventive in nature. While all else is out of the house some changes are being worked out for the listening room.
A couple of weeks ago I purchased a pair of Allen Organ Amps-75A's. Soon they will undergo a rebab/mod for home use. Despite the hard industral look , their articulation is shocking. Perhaps one of the greatest amps ever made , provided you know what your doing in the change-over. |
Yours truly dropped the oil trough on a cement floor, cracked the paint work. Another stop @ Fine Finishes for a redo and some oak work and pegs to fill the open holes left when the electronics were removed. In the works, a brass plate same size as the base plate, inscribed ARIADNE REFERENCE , Serial NO. 1800, to be placed on front of the Air Manifold. I will then post several shots of the Table , awaiting Piedpipers assistence.
We are all in for a treat, this Table looks sweet. I hope it surprises me in terms of performace. |
Piedpiper has agreed to join in the project , in a couple of months. He's currently on the road. The schedule is OK with me , another Christmas present is a good thing. |
Readers : This project has taken on many facets that I did not appreciate in the beginning. This is a journey not just a destination. Its my intention to create new bounds for the 'Nolls. Ideas that transend the moment or money. But, I have learned this project can not exist in a vaccume. Today, I requested assistance from Piedpiper , an expert in outboard motors ,to assist me & perhaps create other optons in arm tubes. I hope he can assist. |
Readers:FYI, A Ari'Noll is up for sale on AG, # 1225807894, Ontaro, CA., $2,400 plus shipping. |
Every 'Noll part has under gone re-inspection, cleaning & polishing. The painting work of "Fine Finishes" is truly dazzeling. Todate, I'm re-assembeling the table for now (less-tonearm) until I merge the Music Hall stand alone Turntable Motor Unit and the Table. The Platter looks stunning, but what is more important, Robb took it upon himself to flywheel balance the platter. It runs perfectly round.
Earlier, I "eyeballed" placement of the motor unit from pic's on AG ,I'm close ; only a "fraction" or so adjustment to equall the height of the Table , Motor Unit w/ VPI controller before speed tests.
My A+ gear is in Eric's shop for inspection and A/C balance . Tube replacement for the SP-10 & perhaps the input tubles for the S.O.B's. The 6550A are robust and are not up for replacement. My Audio room is up for a revamp. Lots going on to complement the 'Noll. Then picture time of the completed project. I will post the "Fine Finishes" work by Robb Shortly. |
The 'Noll parts are back from "Fine Finishes", Robb did an outstanding job. When the weather improves I want to take several frames of Robbs work & the disassembled Ari posting them(soon) . I intend to polish the plastic & painted parts, reinspecting every part and sub-unit before putting the record player back together. Then, the hard work begins . |
Robb of "Fine Finishes" phoned leaving a message the 'Noll parts are finished. More later. |
Hey guys,
I had a Maplenoll pump but not one that was not 45psi. That's why I sold it...in an effort to source something that was (and oiless and rotary vane to avoid pulsations).
-Jim |
Readers: Following weeks of fruitless searching , I sourced a plastic air barb @ Grangers that may fit the manifold. The barb stem is slightly larger ; according to the staff , they had nothing elese smaller. With a little experimentation & mod'ing it could do. Friends , please accept this piece of advice. Should you own a early Maplenoll Ariadne and should decide to do a break-down, as I have, remove the plastic air barb from the Bearing Manifold ASAP, securing it in a safe place. All the best. |
Jdubs: Have you ever had this table operational and if so than am I incorrect in the assumption the 'Noll needs a air-control-system ? Do you actually possess a super quiet pump ( Akin to a large black pump w/ 3 other smaller, plastic tanks) or perhaps a lessor pump that Maplenoll unfortunately sold to the public? Thanks , Good looking Table ! |
The "stock super quiet pump" puts out about 45 psi in this application, which is sufficient if not absolutely optimum. Mine has worked flawlessly for over 16 years with minimal upkeep. |
Nice looking table on AGon! Actually its mine...so, indeed, very nice looking :)
Yes, would need a pump and whatever you want to do for regulation. I had the stock super silent pump and it was a low pressure unit that was unimpressive to say the least. Based on what I've heard / read...Jun-Air is a good way to go.
Also, all the parts for the oil bath are there. The "dip stick" (part of the head-shell) is a separate piece that connects to the arm tube. I've got it in a plastic bag along with a spare belt. Also, its worth pointing out that part of what I bought from Lloyd is an extra arm tube with a brass head shell (w/ "dip sick") attached.
Happy to answer any questions.
-Jim |
Further observation : For those interested in the Signature Table , just a reminder the table does not appear to have a complete air control system (DIY $200-$300 US), that's in-addition to the need for a silent air pump. Also, the pictures do not appear to show all parts for the oil bath unit, better ask about that. Note: The air bearing plates are identical to those in all 'Nolls including mine. All the best. |
Maplenoll'ers: FYI, AG AD#1224107516 for Maplenoll Ari. Signature (70lb. platter) w/ Walker extras (NOTE : no air pump that's $400-$800 lay-out)Asking price, $3250.00 US. |
That's a good question. I have no recommendation one way or another. I suspect the rim rider will not be acceptable for any of the earlier TT without modification, & that may apply to later models. Perhaps Chris could view the photo's on this site and the 'noll mod and make a judgement. If that's not enought, Chris may directly contact me since I am rebuilding a Ari, having 18 plus years of experience with the Tables. |
Has anyone ever considered adapting a rim drive unit (Teres or VPI) to be used with your Maplenoll?
Seems like it would be the best of all worlds...rim drive, air bearing and heavy platter, air bearing arm.
I had asked Chris Brady at Teres about using his system on other turntables and he said its certainly possible, even with very heavy platters such as the Maplenoll's.
-Jim |
Added photo of completed flip side (for now). |
Charlie---Try this link for plastic air barbs. My laboratory guys say they will have it---http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/productsearch.asp?search=threaded+air+barbs |
Piedpiper: An alternate might be stacking of Rega-type platters with the lead unit(s) ?? Or, if Bob Dilger would come forward , he may have unused foundary casts in need of turning. From observation I believe my lead platter was a foundary cast , no small feat , a challenge to reproduce. |
I believe I could make a lead platter with a bit of work, especially if I had one to build up from. IOW, take an existing 50# platter and add a layer of lead by creating a casting form that extends its perimeter and then truing it up on a milling machine. It may even be preferable to simply build up the edge inch or so and leave the inner dimensions. This would only work on the later models that used a higher speed motor and perimeter belt rather than riding the belt on the bearing subplatter which this version would obscure from access.
Re: the motor mount, I'm thinking the easy way would be to use 3" diameter PVC pipe, glue a hard plastic cap into the top with holes for the spindle and mounting bolts, screw another into the bottom with a hole for the wire, and fIll it with lead shot. |
charlie, yep follow the progress every day. Starting to get the itch to tweak some more. I like how the roma has smoothed out all of the nooks and crannies. can't wait to see the finished product
Piedpiper: thanks for your information. I tend to agree that the heavier platter will help with speed control. I will not have any problem with the vta or oil trough since i have already modified those components and they both are easily adjusted. I would love it if you would work up the design for the motor mount. I am looking again at your system to see how to mimic it. Thanks again to both of you for your insight and passion to improve this table |
Q : Where do we source 90 LB. lead platters ? If my memory is correct , the last one I recall sold for $1,000 on AG several years ago. They are rare byrds ... |
I would highly recommend while you're at it to investigate rebuilding your existing platters (both of you) to heavier platters. Mine is 90# and was a significant improvement in speed stability and bass solidity. The two parameter that need to adjusted to suit this are the oil trough height and the arm height. The oil trough height is adjusted by procuring longer mounting bolts available from any good hardware store. The arm height is adjusted by either the VTA bracket or using longer manifold standoffs.
Oilman, removing the motor was definitely an improvement and not very difficult to accomplish if you're at all handy and have the tools. I can make a mount for you if you like. Perhaps I can work up a design that improves on mine and make three of them. I've considered sourcing a motor and housing from one of the many turntable manufacturers that sue stand-alone motors. |
Oilmanmojo: I beleve the air barbs at the suggested site are brass not plastic. I'm hopeing to replace with plastic in light of the problems encountered with building the Air Control System.
I have a 45-50 Lb. platter that underwent considerable sanding to remove manufacturing defects. I think its less than the 50lb mark. I would suggest that you not move to a heaver platter until I have compteted the Ari . I believe that weight is only one of several issues under investigation. Keep in mind the adjustments that must be made should you move to a higher weight(taller in height) platter. I know you are a smart fellow , I only mean to keep you informed of possible mods should you change platter.
Have you viewed the 2 new pic's ? I believe they demostrate how far I have gone to remake the table. |
good strategy. Have you been able to source the airbarb? if not, let me know. The air barb is not a custom part so I know it can be located. Do you have the 40# platter or the 70# platter? I am looking to move to the heavier platter but will probably have to have it made since I have not been able to locate a replacement platter. Also, are you looking to move the motor from the platter plinth to a separate plinth like piedpiper? I like his approach but just have not been willing to invest the time yet to do that project. No doubt that it will improve the performance. |
Oilmanmojo : Thanks. As you can see I broke down the 'Noll Table as far a possible.
Oilman , I suggest that our tables can be significantly improved with modest effort. For instance, take note of the air manifold supports I filled w/ Roma and the replacement rubber bushings On the flip side of the table. The bushings I removed were cracked and brittle. I have located several acceptable subitutes in Auto Parts Stores in my area, "generics" costing a few bucks each including hardware. Please note that a extremely thin coating of Roma was embeded into the holes that bolts travel thru the table to reduce "noise" . As one can view I had a significant "flip" opening where the motor had been mounted that has also been filled with Roma.
For now I am going to reuse all the tonearm parts & the VTA block. I intend to follow your suite after I get a handel on the changes made and how the table "sounds". |
Charlie--looking good! Are you going to modify the tonearm to get on the fly vta? Were you able to match up what you need on the airbarb. There are other companies out if this one can not match you up. Let me know |
Threaders: I finally posted a few photo's of the Maplenoll and will re-edit to other views in a few days/weeks. |
Charlie-- try this link to a company that specializes in small fittings. The page should take you right to the page that has air barbs with male plugs. You should be able to fit this one pretty easy. Sorry for the delay, my instrument gurus been busy. Let me know if this was what you were looking for.
http://catalog.industrialspec.com/category/male-thread-x-barb? --- |
Readers: I just want to mention that I fully understand this project is in uncharted waters. I appreciate no one has gone before me ( at least in the published media) and that much of what I'm attempting hasn't yet been doctumented much less attempted. This is an exciting challenge. I'm disappointed that I failed to shoot digital pic's sooner. In retrospect, I should have doctumented every step but that's not the case. Nevertheless, what I have learned is more than enought to satsify my desire to understand the workings of this table. I know that Bob D. is reading my comments but for reasons known only to him he answers in silence. There is no good reason this beauty can not compete with the $$$$$$ tables. Nothing is certian but I am confident I'm on the correct course. And if not nothing I have done can't be corrected or adjusted. That's where I depend on those few who have the passion to keep me alert , even if I don't like it. I depend on your insite to help even if the "blind are leading the blind". Thanks for the private emails and keep me on my best. |
Odd 'an Ends: Spoke to Robb of "Fine Finishes". Robb's begun working on a time consuming project that's delaying the repaint of the TT parts for weeks. I've nixed the idea of painting the white, plastic base. I've concluded a paint/color tinted clear coat finish just can not stand up to the hands-on effort it takes to relocate this mug. I'm going to clean the white, plastic finish with wet finishing paper , cleaners & polishes then buff to a satin-shine.
The phono wiring is to be re-inspected and re-installed in the tonearm tube. The tonearm tube measures 6" with about another 1" for the head shell unit. The 7" tonearm tube and head shell may extend another 1/4" to 3/8" (or less) for phono cartridge adjustment. I think the effective mass is about 11.5 , maybe slightly less.
A couple stops @ Home Depot's resulted in sourcing short, red oak semi-finished plinths (approx.8'Lx3"Wx1"H) to construct the reverse "Z" for seating the TT motor. More on the way... |
What happen to the Back-Side (short version):
The flip-side of the 'noll table was stripped of the motor , electrical blocks & wires . Air connections were made as short as deemed reasonable, clamped & dampened. Adjustment valves removed. Guidance was derived from re-reads of reviews and interviews ;their essence emphasized controling mechanical/air pulsations inside the 'Nolls base.
The places filled with Roma were choosen by the use of a tuning fork & scope and just plain eyeballing. I choose to fill the spaces approx. 80-85% leaving either leaving smooth or convex clay bottoms , some with slight air spaces. Small divots and cut-outs were filled in the same manner. All were blue taped ; replacement bushings, heavy duty washers, new center pin were installed and a lite interface between the botton bearing plate and a gentle tightening.
The back was re-painted a hard shell gloss black , the white plastic side pannels lightly sanded to remove manufacturing imperfections where they frame the bottom-side of the turntable's base. Soon Robb will re-finish the top-side parts. |
Pidepiper: Your view is well expressed. Thanks, I too have the those concerns and perhaps I have misused the term dampening. What I have been attempting is to eliminate "ringing" and hollowness that I have discovered in the turntable base. I also believe I am toneing down micro-air pulsations. Hopefully, the photo's will affirm that.
The Roma issue is well expressed. For the past several days I scraped the Roma on the topside in that portion of the "Q" (the "O") so that it only covers the lead by a "thumb nail" of thickness. Surprizingly, I found on the inside of the base the lead had puffed out and making no contact with the other base materals. The air space did not appear intentional, a manufacturing error or parts seperating over time. That has been corrected.
The tail of the "Q" had been of concern to Fred Kaplan. He made no mention of it in the review ,but privately, at the time of sale, he said it was a source of concern that he believed to have been corrected by un-capping & leaving the area exposed. As posted , that was where a circular hole was drilled thru the table to house the motor. That area has been filled , we will learn later if that's a good idea.
I have been examining a Raven attempting to draw out an idea or so. What I hope is news is that floating the top bearing plate over a quiet(er) bottom plate should improve the over-all sonics, only time will tell. Before the bottom plate sat squarely on top of that lead bubble and the edge clanged , not the sweet bell sound of the top plate. My review of the underside bushings causes me to feel these should be replaced by anyone owning a similar 'Noll. Of course, the proof is in the sonics and we are not close to that. Soundsmith returned my cart with a tad of correction ,no new stylas , that's reserved for the AQ 7000 later on.
This project is more involved than I presumed in the beginning. I think the knowledge aquired is worth the effort. Piedpiper, thanks for your views. Since this project is on-going its perfectly reasonable to assume modifications to the Roma. |
One nagging concern of mine as I hear of your progress is about all your attention to damping. I'm not here to tell you what's right. I don't think there is such a thing, but I would bear in mind that there seems to be an inverse relationship of damping of resonance to evacuation of same through rigid undamped coupling, two examples of this being Rega and Mapleshade. The profuse use of lead on the 'Noll reflects the choice of relatively rigid damping as opposed to sorbothane or even paint. I'm guessing that the application of clay will have effects that are perceived as positive, but possibly at the expense of clarity and dynamics. After you've gotten used to the sound of your "new" 'Noll, you may want to try removing the clay and see what you hear. In the mean time I wouldn't assume that more is better in every application. My intuitive sense is to prioritize evacuation first and then damping/isolation down stream such as in isolating the platform that the table sits on from the stand that it in turn sits on. It's a subtler example of focusing on rigidity within a table/arm and having the whole thing then suspended. |
