And I never tried Entreq, or any other grounding device, but I'm pretty sure, I'm going to try one after my room is finished |
Thank you,
let me narrow this down
lets forget about digital for a moment, since it’s gonna be on a separate line.
if I had 6 analog components and needed 6 outlets for them, what would be the best solution?
1. 3 separate lines with 3 duplex receptacles ?
2. 1 line with 3 duplexes?
3. 1 line and power distribution box with 3 duplexes?
4. Power distribution box hard wired to one line without IEC and extra power cable?
Enter your text ... |
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David,
For now I have some Oyaide R1s and Furutech GTX-D Gold-plated receptacles.
After reading some posts, I got an impression, that Oyaide R1 can be "brittle and lean"?, so, I’m having my doubts about them now.
From what I’m reading about Furutech GTX-D Gold, vs. Rodium plated, I would definitely prefer Gold version to avoid some extra treble emphasis, that people ascribe to Rhodium plated one.
I’m not sure, that the new Furutech GTX- D NFC (that are only Rhodium plated) do have the same character, as the older non- NFC kind.
Many people prefer them over the older version.
Bill,
thanks for your input. I’m leaning toward two separate lines with one receptacle each, for analog and digital, and power distribution box, connected to the "analog’ line, to accommodate additional analog component
I will definitely have I separate line for each Lamm ML2 mono block, and another two separate lines for Avantgarde powered subs and JL subs.
And you probably right about power distribution box being hardwired, as NOT being code compliant. |
David,
I forgot to mention, that I have some Synergistic Research Teslaplex
outlets, that I'm planning to use for subs |
David, how do you compare Oyaide R1 to Furutech GTX-D (Gold), and NCF? |
Have been reading tons of the reviews on different AC outlets, and find reports to be quite contradictory.
Mainly, when reviewrs compare Oyaide R1 to Furutech RDX-D NCF, some say R1 are "warmer and musical" and NCF more "analytical", yet the others state exactly the opposite- R1 are "crisper with more leading edge" and NCF more "neutral".
I'm definitely trying to avoid anything, that could be perceived as "analytical, crisp, lean, having more leading edge" in my system, and now I'm lost about the choices, I need to make.
I actually ended up having a pair of each: Oyaide R1, Furutech GTX-D (gold) and Furutech GTX-D NCF (Rhodium). |
Thank you jea48,
Great info, as always.
However, not being an electrician, I'm having a hard time to picture having one or two lines with 6-8 outlets located in different locations?
I'm sure any electrician would know how to do it, I'm just trying to understand that for myself.
And, BTW, the subpanel in my case will be literally behind the front wall of the listening room, in the adjacent garage.
That's is the wall, where the outlets for the mono blocks are going to be.
The other two outlets will likely be on the side walls for the JL subs and powered subs in the Avantgarde speakers
And yet, another group of outlets for the front end components will be further away from the front wall.
And I would definitely go with at least 10/2 Romex.
I was actually thinking of 8/2 just for the amps.
Since we are on this topic, what specific brand and model of the subpanel would you recommend?
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Jea48,
thank you again
Great info.
one more question- how would you suggest to install 2, or 3 duplexes on the same line in the same location? |
Jea48
i don't know the feeder size, bu the one I have in my current home is pretty big
you can see it in my system pics
what size do you think I'd need?
And what is your opinion on twisting the wires?
Tx |
I actually took it the other way- I thought the closer subpanel is to the receptacles, the less of an issue decoupling will be. |
Jea48,
Thanks again.
The room and garage are in the above the grade basement, an concrete slab
no crawl space under the slab
Subpanel will be about 10-12 Ft. away from the main panel, and can be located on the wall, separating garage from the audio room.
The 3 walls of the audio room are sheetrock on studs over concrete
The other side wall is internal, non-bearing, sheetrock on studs, that is likely will need to be reinforced.
The ceiling is finished, with the living room, kitchen above it.
I would imagine, there is some space for the wiring.
MC vs. MC armored cable duly noted |
Whart,
Why do you think I should increase distance b/w subpanel and receptacles? |
The first 4 points are correct
im not sure about studs or furring strips over concrete
i will find that out |
Whart,
Why do you think I should increase distance b/w subpanel and receptacles? |
One more question.
seems everyone suggests to keep every run from subpanel to the receptacles of equal length.
im not sure I understand how it's possible with all the outlets to be a different distance from the panel? |
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Jea,
Thanks. No, I'm not planning to use conduit, just 10/2 Romex.
Thats what I have in my current room, and it is quiet |
I’m moving in this weekend, and not gonna know until then.
will post as soon, as I know.
in the mean time been reading on twisted L and N leads, that’s accord. To Whitlock, affords the best performance. My understanding is, that he suggests only twisting L and N, and leaving ground straight.
my question is, how you gonna do that, if all 3 are in the same jacket, as in 10/2 Romex? |
An update,
I ended up tearing down all the drywall. All walls are on 2x4 studs with 5/8" SoundBreak damped drywall to be installed.
final configuration is as follows:
100 A Square D QO subpanel, connected to the main panel by #2 wire
EP whole house surge protector, ground filter installed.
6 separate circuits with 10/2 Solid core copper Romex
(2 for mono blocks, 2 for subs, one each for analog and digital front end equipment)
I need one more circuit for A/V processor , amp and front projector, and I’m debating making it #7, coming from subpanel, or running it from the main panel???
outlets Furutech GT X Gold and NCF, with corresponding wall plates and covers.
i also bought Furutech ET-P 609 power distributor with 3 Furutech GTX- D NCF duplexes |
Whart, I contracted Nyal Mellor of "Acoustic Frontiers" to design the whole room, including construction specs, electric, etc. Initially I was thinking of installing a second layer of drywall on a top of the old one, with Green Glue in b/w the layers, but Nyal thinks, that a single layer of 5/8' damped drywall is a better option. So, here I am, removing the old drywall. Actually, I'm glad I did- first, after exposing the walls and the ceiling, my contractor discovered a leak from the toilet above, two disconnected air ducts and some other small problems, previously hidden under the drywall. Also, the electrician's job of installing dedicated lines will be much easier (and cheaper), and I can better supervise it. |
