New dedicated line & outlets sound worse, not better- HELP!


About 3 weeks ago I installed a new dedicated power line from my breaker box to the outlets for my stereo set-up.  I used 10 gauge Romex, a new breaker in the panel, and also installed two new Porter Port cryo'd outlets.

My system is comprised of the following:
Gallo Strada speakers
M&K MX-80 sub
Parasound A23 amp
Consonance Cyber 222 line stage pre
MHDT Stockholm 2 DAC
Audio Philleo converter & Pure Power module
Clear Day double shotgun speaker cables
Silnote Epirus USB cable
Silnote Morpheus IC from DAC
Audience PowerChord from DAC
spiked maple stands for pre and amp

So my concern is that my system sounded just about perfect prior to the installation of the dedicated line and outlets- very clean, open, and detailed, yet also a musical and relaxed sounding. I figured the new dedicated line and outlets would just bring more of all of the good things I was hearing.

Instead, following it's installation, everything sounds a bit edgy and fatiguing to my ears. Soundstage depth and separation are improved, as well as bandwidth, but I literally cannot listen for more than 30 minutes before I get irritated. The treble seems too aggressive, which I'm very sensitive to. And there seems to be a slight veil over everything- just not as open as before.
Do I need to just be patient with break-in of the line and outlets? I've heard it can take a month or more for things to settle down. What are others experience after installing a new line and/or outlets?
Any insights or possible issues I might have overlooked are much appreciated!
Lincoln
lincnabby

Showing 3 responses by auxinput

Agreed.  The initial 100 hours can be really difficult to listen to.  Expect a break-in time on any new power cord type component.  Even the 10awg romex will need to break-in.  My experience indicates true break-in requires at least 250 hours.  If you system is generally laid-back, it can become listenable after about 100 hours, but stronger systems can require longer break-in on A/C power elements.
I honestly don't know about using a refrigerator or freezer for break-in.  It's true that the compressor motors draw a lot of current, but they don't run all the time.  You will only get a small trickle from the computer based controller in the frig.  It's probably better just to leave your amplifier on - as it will draw a certain amount of current idle (the A23 is biased somewhat into Class A, so I'm going to guess at somewhere between 100-200 watt current draw -- the Emotiva XPA-1L set at Class A mode 30 watts will draw about 160 or so watts from the wall idle).

I did not comment on selection of the Porter Ports - they are cryod Hubbell hospital outlets.  Let's let lincnabby burn them in first.  The Hubbell outlets are brass and in my experience, brass elements tend to be on the sterile side and have a little bit of shouty effect in the highs.  Some people have NOT had any problem with these.  The Synergistic Black outlets are really expensive at $250.  They might be good.  The cheapest good outlets I have used are the Furutech FPX-Cu and are more affordable at $70 (phosphor bronze conductors - which are around 90% copper).