New Dedicated Audio Room

Ideally if you can keep any of the parallel walls from being absolutely parallel, that is a plus. Minimizes standing waves. A cathedral ceiling is a plus also. Sounds like a nice room to start with. I would also talk with a room acoustic expert for professional advice since you are going through all the effort you are, it will be worth it in the long run. Good luck

www.silentsource.com has sheet rock replacements that are sonically absorbative. I'd call them.

Be careful about getting too absorbative. I don't think you want a room that is too absorbative. You might end up with an anecholic chamber sound that will improve one thing (imaging) at the expense of the music coming alive. It is however a matter of taste. I personally don't like that dead sound. It doesn't sound like the real thing to me. Check with a professional first.

I built a dedicated listening room in my old house and if you want, I would be glad to send the plans and description of the room my contractor built. Give me a name and a FAX number and I will send it. It turned out excellent. Was very musical, dedicated lines, and sound proof.

look at www.tubetrap.com for some suggestions. they've got a number of products designed for both constuction and treatment of sound rooms. tubegroover has some good points but you may have resale problems if you carry things too far (if that's a concern). i would go for 10 ft. ceilings and, at the very least, double wall (with airspace) constuction. some of the best spaces i've listened in were made of large mass walls, stone or double brick, etc. don't forget about controlling the sound of your hvac and NEVER install low-voltage halogon fixtures or lamps within 50 feet of your room.

I would go with at least 8 dedicated lines.You want to keep every piece of equipment on its own circuit.2 for amps 1 pre amp 1 cd player 1 turntable, 1 self powered sub.you get the picture.Use the hubbels and make sure you use a good power wire.at least 14AWG teflon dialectric with individual shielding and a overall shield.put in a cathedral ceiling if you can.I moved from a 18' long 16' wide by 8' high room to one that is 18'wide 15'long by 10'on one end to 18' on the high end.The difference in sound was incredible.I could have spent 5/10k more in the other room and not achived the same sound upgrade.Dont dampen it to much.Tube traps in the 4 corners and a little on the walls.

The suggestion to check the TubeTraps web site was a good one, since they have a constrained layer system for use with sheetrock that is very good. You can also use a material called "DexDamp" which is cheaper, using a half-sheet every several feet between two layers of sheetrock. I have purchased quite a bit of acoustic treatment material from a marine supply outlet here in Seattle. They sell "DexDamp" sheets, as well as a material called "Sonolead", which is a 2" blanket of acoustic fiberglass with a heavy vinyl septum in the middle. The "Sonolead" can be used in the ceiling, or mounted to sections of peg board to make excellent baffles. The also have several different types of acoustic foam. HamiltonJet ships around the world, so you'll have no problem getting what you want. The web site address is: www.hamiltonjet.com

I prefer splayed wood panels for walls and some splaying on the ceiling. I have also heard good results with adjustable hinged panels on the walls instead of splaying. I wouldn't spend too much up front on acoustic treatments because you need to consider the room as a component of your system. Since the room is the most tuneable component, you should spend most of your time afterwards and tune the room to integrate best with the other components. I prefer relatively inexpensive hospital grade power conditioning to any audiophile conditioners. These completely regenerate your power to make up for any bad power coming into your house.