Rives Audio knows what it's doing and doesn't have a vested interest in any specific product. If you were to go to ASC, RPG, PMI, Echo Busters and etc there is an inherent conflict between selling a product and selling a design. There are many good products to use but you need a plan first. I use ASC often for instance but I can't use it all the time. I see too many people throw too much money and ineffective material into the room (I'm not referring to ASC).
I would suggest dividing the problem into sections:
Noise control-mostly lower frequencies
Do you need it. If not then don't make the walls exotic but simple sheetrock, studs and fiberglass. You can do it better but simple walls work quite well.
If you do need it put more massive isolation walls on the outside walls. Sound isolation works regardless of which side of the wall your on.
If you must put the isolating stuff on the inside of the room it gets complicated and you need a consultant. The room sill needs to "breath", "be diaphramatic" or damped.
Small rooms have very distinct bass modes. Speaker and seating positions are very important. Bass traps are a very long story I can't share in one response. I'm already long winded.
Sound Performance-mid to high frequncies
Almost every room needs some form of absorption to make the reverberant energy in the room decay but you need to have a broad band absorption and some diffision. Furniture (soft), bookcases (not completly full), some carpet or a rug or two. Fortunately, smaller rooms need absorptin than big ones. There's a formula you can easily find to estimate the decay time (RT60) for your room. It's always wrong for small rooms but it gives you an idea of how much other soft absorptive stuff you need in the room. Just don't put lots of thin big fiberglass of foam in your room. It's the best way to waste your money.
Lower frequencies<~250Hz
You need to know about the rooms behavior either form testing or modeling. Try CARA CAD. It's a great modeling tool and cheap or buy ETF and test the room or hire a consultant to at least take a look at just this part. Bass behavior is a hard subject.
Last word: Good small room consultants are worth every penny and Rives is one of the better ones.
I would suggest dividing the problem into sections:
Noise control-mostly lower frequencies
Do you need it. If not then don't make the walls exotic but simple sheetrock, studs and fiberglass. You can do it better but simple walls work quite well.
If you do need it put more massive isolation walls on the outside walls. Sound isolation works regardless of which side of the wall your on.
If you must put the isolating stuff on the inside of the room it gets complicated and you need a consultant. The room sill needs to "breath", "be diaphramatic" or damped.
Small rooms have very distinct bass modes. Speaker and seating positions are very important. Bass traps are a very long story I can't share in one response. I'm already long winded.
Sound Performance-mid to high frequncies
Almost every room needs some form of absorption to make the reverberant energy in the room decay but you need to have a broad band absorption and some diffision. Furniture (soft), bookcases (not completly full), some carpet or a rug or two. Fortunately, smaller rooms need absorptin than big ones. There's a formula you can easily find to estimate the decay time (RT60) for your room. It's always wrong for small rooms but it gives you an idea of how much other soft absorptive stuff you need in the room. Just don't put lots of thin big fiberglass of foam in your room. It's the best way to waste your money.
Lower frequencies<~250Hz
You need to know about the rooms behavior either form testing or modeling. Try CARA CAD. It's a great modeling tool and cheap or buy ETF and test the room or hire a consultant to at least take a look at just this part. Bass behavior is a hard subject.
Last word: Good small room consultants are worth every penny and Rives is one of the better ones.