new arm cable jam my Linn arm, need advice. thanks


hi folks,

i just purchased an ensembale arm cable(regular pin connector) to replace my Linn 90 degree connector arm cable,though it sounds lot better, but it jam my arm, so I have to raise my linn12 table in order to accommdate the needed hign, i can either, first replace the ensemble to 90 degree connector(may be hard to do?) or raise the linn 12 all the time( actually it sound better) or shift back to origianl linn arm cable.
any suggestion please, thanks
timchen
I have just replaced my Linn cable with the silver interconnect from Extreme Phono. Wow, what an improvement, the original that came with the turntable was a really nasty, cheap piece of work. Casy at Extreme custom makes his cable to fit the LP12 & therefore I encountered no problems when I installed the new cable. I was so impressed with Casey's apparent understanding of the LP12's design limitations that I went ahead & replaced the original sub-chassis & armboard with their his carbon fibre parts. I also dumped the Akito arm & replaced it with an SME Model 10. The sonic performance is was amazing! Moral of the story, don't always listen to the Linn dealers, they have square Earth thinking as far as tampering with the deck is concerned. If you need more advise I urge you to get in touch with Casey at Extreme Phono.
You have made a large mistake. The 90 degree cable end is important to the Linn's setup. If the arm cable is not properly positioned with just the right amount of play and orientation of the cable in a VERY tight plastic "P" clip, that is screwed to the plinth, sonic degradation will occur. This is due to the effect of the arm cable acting on the turtable suspension. If your new cable sounded better than the original, and you did not dress it through the "P" clip, then your table was very poorly set up to start with. The arm cable dressing and the "P" clip clamping is one of the most critical and difficult parts of setting up a Linn. It requires some experience to get it right. You CANNOT do it properly from underneath. You MUST remove the platters and plug the bearing, and put the table upside-down in a setup stand in order to do this right. If you think otherwise, you are kidding yourself. I have set up hundreds of Linns and I know what I'm talking about on this subject. After you get the cable set up right, then you must re-adjust the suspension springs to get a straight up-and-down movement of the subchassis when the platter is given a light tap near the center. If it has any orbital/elliptical movement at all, it is not right. If your "P" clip is wrecked, you must get a new one, and dress the cable through it so the cable has about 1/2" free play in it by the tonearm. Then tighten the cable in the "P" clip with the wide part in a vertical orientation, so the clip will really clamp it in. Tighten the clip down hard with the screw.Any time you remove the arm cable you have to re-adjust the suspension as I described above. This is also a good time to change the bearing oil. If you set the table up like this, your sound will be dramatically better than it was before, as apparently the table was not set up anywhere near correctly. Also, if you're fiddling with the arm area, check the tightness of the arm board screws in case they loosened up. Don't strip them out, just make sure they are snug. If any of this scares you, then take the table to a KNOWLEDGEABLE Linn dealer for professional set-up and you will be happy with the result. Forget the "new" cable.twl