Need tips re:Michell Gyro SE setup & tweaking

Overhang:
Congratulations on an excellent turntable. I have had a Michell Gyro in various incarnations in my system for nearly two and a half years and it has ignited the vinyl passion in me.I started with the Michell Gyro SE, upgraded to a Gyrodec which in the last 6 months has become an Orbe.Fretless and Audiogalore are spot on in their advice and response to your questions. IMHO, the Orbe platter makes a bigger difference than the PSU. You get a tighter, cleaner bottom end with the Orbe platter. Was using the Expressimo weight with a Rega RB1000 and was very happy with it. I can't really comment on the Technoweight as I have no experience of it.
A small and inexpensive tweak you could try, especially as you have some unwelcome highs is to wrap ordinary cotton wool around the springs. There should be enough cotton wool tightly wrapped around the knurled spring adjusters so that the bounciness is reduced. The best part is that if you don't like the result, its easy to undo. IMHO there is a significant improvement.
Happy listening and Enjoy

This was my 1st TT and I worked on several upgrades over 3 yrs or so. I had the same setup with the RB600 arm. As per Fretless and Audiogalor, this TT has a a lot going for it. The only item I would disagree is with VFTA. Now I purchased the Pete Riggle VTAF adjustment designed for the RB arm. I called him up( easy to talk to ) - and he set me up with Hess Tool and Development to machine the armboard ( much less expensive than a local job in the SF Bay area ). You have to redrill the armboard to accept his unit ( and since this is aluminum it is best left to the professionals). This adjuster made a big difference in overall depth/sound as you can adjust the arm on the fly.

The second major improvement was to rewire the RB arm. I 1st tried the Incognito Rega Cable Kit - now I know others will disagree, but after I used the kit - the music seemed thin. I then pulled out the factory cable I had removed. The main phono cable/RCA connectors terminates at the base of the RB arm and then uses some lesser grade tonearm wire. I purchased the Cardas 4x33 unshielded tonearm cable - rewired the arm a second time and soldered the wire to the 4 terminals on the interface base - this was a bit of a pain. At the cart end use the Cardas tone arm clips - with very small shrink tubing along with the proper colors. I purchased most of this stuff from the Cable Co.The final result was a much fuller sound.

Lastly - I used the Michell Tecno Weight which I feel is superior to the Expressino.

This TT needs to be setup up and fine tuned to reach its total potential and should last you many years. I only sold it to play and rebuild an older TNT3. Hope this helps.

Respond to question# 06. Jean Michell intended and purposely designed the table plinth with the three threaded legs for final leveling it would be nice to have all the legs snugged but designed to compensate for leveling. As a tweak tip you might also want to consider Teflon plumbers tape wrap around the male threads of three leg shafts before threading into the female opening to help decouple table noise. When leveling place a spirit bubble level on the platter to were the stylus tip hits vinyl grove, which is about half way through vinyl arc and do final adjustment as mentioned with the threaded legs only. Do not use the spring knobs to level. the spring knobs are used only for the suspension adjustment, which accordingly to instruction should be 1-2mm gap between the bottom of the plinth and the felt washer under load. That means a Heavy vinyl placed on the platter and then clamped with arm in position about half way through vinyl arc similar to VTF setup.
Hope this helps clarify question# 06.

1.Should i put coupling discs under Michell cone shaped feet

I wouldn't unless you're trying to protect the surface of the shelf at all costs. These discs are furniture/floor protectors, nothing more.

2.Should i try any mats?

Definitely not. The platter/clamp system is designed specifically to couple the LP to the platter.

3.Will upgrading to Orbe 6cm acrylic platter reduce the brightness that i currently have?

Possibly, but I don't think this is a very cost effective upgrade, especially since you end up with an expensive spare Gyro platter collecting dust. I tried it and found that the Orbe clamp was responsible for at least half of the Orbe platter's sonic improvements.

The Orbe clamping system is pricey at around $350, but I consider it money well spent. It darkens the sonic background and lowers surface noise quite a bit. It's also much easier to use and couples the outer edge of the LP to the platter more firmly than the Gyro's press-on clamp. Use just enough clamping pressure to couple the LP to the platter and no more. Over-tightening the clamp sounds slightly bright/edgy.

If you're experiencing a problem with brightness, I'd look at your cartridge loading and/or VTA/VTF, or possibly address the problem downstream. In some systems the Gyro can sound a little analytical, but for the most part it's a well-balanced TT top to bottom with plenty of weight and body.

4.Should i risk enlarging the armboard for this new Vee-Tuff ($149=99) gadget that allows VTA adjustments while playing music?

I've heard the VTAF and don't care for it. It decouples the arm from the armboard which I find has a deadening effect on the note attack. VTA on-the-fly is a needless distraction, IMO, especially if the VTA device has a deleterious effect on the sound. If you're dicking around with the arm settings with every LP you spin, you're focusing-in on the sound rather than the music. Just set VTA for the best sonic compromise and forget about it.

5.Is it worth shelling out for a Pedersen mod and where can i get it from?

I don't think so. The Pedersen mods rely on mass-loading the chassis, which I think compromises the Gyro's rhythmic drive. I've tried the Denso-damp tweak---a less severe form of damping via mass-loading---and it definitely dulled the Gyro's pacing. I ended up substituting it with a very small amount of tak putty to lightly damp the aluminum chassis, but you have to be careful; too much damping will make the 'table err toward sounding musically lifeless, even if it adds a little more sonic detail.

6.Is it better to level the platter with rotating spring adjustment or by rotating conical feet?

Thread the feet all the way in, but don't over-tighten them. Just make them gently finger-tight. Likewise the arm and armboard mounting bolts. Over-tightening the hardware stresses the materials and raises their resonant frequency, which can sound thin and bright. Level the chassis/platter using the spring adjusters, but only after assuring that the support shelf is dead-nut.

Hope this helps, and good luck.