Need advice on good, clean, stable power

Hey guy, take it from somebody who has been there. I did the panamax,monster, and other various "conditioning' products. The cheapest and best bang for the buck is to install a dedicated and isolated line. You can go for the very resonable materials found at your local H-Depot, or for not that much more go for the products dedicated to audio found on this site. Just remember this; All Good Sound Begins At The Wall!!. An isolated line will help to get rid of most of the line noise. This type of line is used in hospitals,computer centers,and wherever sensitive electronic equipment is in use. Depending on your panel box to system configuration your cost could be very minimal, approx $100.00-$200.00. Then look into a good power cable.

As far as your "flu shot" I'll be the first to inform you that its too late. If you are on this forum you've got the bug! The quest to improve your audio system will always be a matter of importance for you, get ready for a long and interesting journey.
Rodge

Lej14447,
Yioryos has given you a good insall procedure to follow. If you have a basement or crawlspace utilize it, run the wires there, exposed is ok just get some wire staples to keep things in place.
As far as the wire reccommended go with a 14/3 or better a 12/3 wire. This is important for noise control. Inside 12/3 wire you will find 4 wires, black, white, red, and a naked ground wire. The bulk of all line noise comes from the non-shielded naked ground wire, don't use it for ground, instead use the shielded red wire for ground, get some green electrical tape and wrap the exposed red wire, this will help to avoid confusion if someone else looks at your panel box. Green is the universial color to indicate ground.

I did this same procedure to an audiophile type isolated outlet and found it to be a huge improvement over a standard dedicated outlet.
Good Luck
Rodge

Lej1447,
It is always best to try and run your dedicated line on its own path. However, in a finished construction insallation, this may present a problem. If you have no choice but to run your line along the same path so be it, but try to keep them seperate. As far as patching holes in the wall that would be your choice. I have an extensive backround in finish construction and patching wall holes can be a real PITA, blow-out patch + joint compound + dry time + 2nd coat of joint compound + more dry time + sanding mess + paint matching..... Get the picture. Try to make as few holes in the finished wall as possible, less work for you.
Hope to have been some help.
Good luck,
Rodge

lej1447,
Lets clarify a few things:
A "dedicated line" is a line from one breaker to your system.
An "isolated line" is a dedicated line with an isolated outlet in use. An isolated outlet is a specific type of outlet, that looks different from a normal duplex. When you go to H-Depot ask to see an isolated outlet, and compare the two. At H-Depot the isolated ones are orange with a small triangle on the face, weigh more, and cost about $18.00. There are also vendors here on A-gon who sell isolated outlets for audio. Look in the tweeks section for a few. These will cost you more than H-depot approx; $40.00. This is the type of line I am using. All together this tweek should run you about $100.00 -$150.00, breaker, isolated outlet, 12/3 wire,etc.. All of this type of outlet have the small delta on them and will state "for hospital use" on them.
So to answer your questions:
1) Yes the difference is substantial, at least in my system it was.
2) Your bass problem may or may not have something to do with your power situation.
3) Your humming problem may or may not be cured by this process, without being at your place, a true diagnosis of the problem is next to impossible. In other words many things can cause an amp to hum, Dimmer switches, halogen lights, AC units, an improperly grounded panel box, etc...
4) Mostly acoustic jazz, blues, some new age, art rock, whatever i feel like listening to at the moment, i have a pretty large disc library.

Doing an isolated line is just a begining point. Will it cure all your problems? Maybe
My system consists of: 20amp breaker, Cryoed 12/3 wire approx. 50', Cryoed iso outlet, BMI Shark IPLC, to various BMI power cords.
One other thing, this type of line does not offer any surge protection, most of your main streem line conditioners do.
An iso line is just the begining you may still need some sort of conditioning, or surge protection.

Remember all good sound starts at the wall, after that take it as it comes.
Rodge

Saki70,
When I first set up my system, about 6 years ago, I had an electritian install a standard dedicated line (20amp breaker,12/2wire,$.89 Leviton outlet). I had all sorts of line noise issues, and then got onto the line conditioning merry-go-round, after time and many dollars later I had achieved an acceptical degree of success. Or so I thought.
I found out about this Iso line at my local H-Depot. While searching for materials for another project I struck up a chat with the sales guy helping me. Truns out he teaches electrical engineering at our county vocational school. He told me about the iso line and how he rewired the computer room at the school, he recieved much praise from the faculty, the screens were much clearer and the computers worked alot better. So I thought this must be good for audio, and it was.
Think about it, in relation to system cost, this is a very low cost up-grade.
Perhaps a question to the guys selling the better outlets would be a goood start.
Albert Porter is selling his "porter pots" in the conditioner section of this site. Check him out he has been around a long time and is a very respected A-gon member.
Hope you get the answers you are looking for.
Good luck,
Rodge