Mr Clean Eraser for Stylus Cleaning


I recently tried the Mr Clean Magic Eraser (which thanks to Doug Deacon is another cheep-o break-through for analog from Audiogon forum members) and found it very effective. Previously I had only been giving a swipe with last stylus cleaner.
My question is this ... would the eraser be even better after wetting and compressing? I know many have warned against using it wet. But once wet and squeezed and dried again, the cleaned has a much greater density which seems better adapted to cleening the fine surface of the stylus.
128x128jyprez
I tried using the MCME on an old 16" transcription disc that had one side that had no grooves. It was pristine before trying the MCME. After gently wiping in a circular pattern, there were thousand of micro scratches on the surface. I would strongly suggest NOT DOING IT.
has anyone tried using Mr Clean Magic Eraser for cleaning records? just a quick wipe...;-)
I make a bunch of these at a time because I include one with every order of Audio Intelligent record cleaning formulas. If anyone would like one, I'd be happy to send them one at no cost -- we'll let Audio Intelligent pick up the cost of postage. Just write me and let me know you'd like one: pfrumkin1@comcast.net.

Best regards,
Paul
I agree, you should not pull or scrape this across the stylus. The fibers are so interwoven that they will provide too much resistance to a smooth pulling through the stylus. After wetting and compressing, however, the density is greatly increased. You can make the volume 50% or less of the original cleaner. Then if you drop the stylus onto it and lift up without pulling, more of the cleaning microfibers are in contact with the stylus. I looked at the process under a hand held microscope and thought the un-compressed cleaner looked rather loose in the fiber configuration compared to the scale of the actual diamond. This is why I asked the question.
Jyprez,
The MCME "foam" is actually a loose mass of thousands of microfibers. The molecule its made from, when formed this way, forms fibers with many sharp-edged rings that go around the fiber. It is these millions of sharp-edged rings that do the cleaning.

To best clean the stylus the fibers and rings must contact all surfaces of the stylus. This is best accomplished when the fibers are at their most flexible. Wetting the MCME causes the fibers to collapse into a less flexible, more tightly packed wad. This makes it harder for the fibers to flex and contact the stylus. Try it if you like, using good quality distilled as Gregm suggested, but dry works best for me.

Champtree,
That is a danger, but only if you use it improperly. NEVER scrape or pull across the stylus with it. Just dip the stylus straight onto it and lift straight back up. Some peole blu-tack a piece of MCME onto a coin. They set the coin on their platter and the dip the stylus once or twice. Quite safe if used that way.
To use: Cut a small square (1-2") of the white Mr. Clean.
Some folks push a toothpick into the edge of it to act as a handle, some folks attach the square to a quarter.
Place the Magic Eraser on your platter, bring the tone arm over and lower the stylus onto the square, raise the tonearm, repeat if neccessary. DO NOT scrape the Magic Eraser against the stylus, unless you are supremely confident you can do so safely. Lowering onto the Mr. Clean and the raising it should be sufficient to clean most styli...
Doesn't the pores in the sponge catch your needle and could tear it out from the cart?
I don't understand how to use it?
You said it works great. It has no chemicals in it so what is the point of wetting and drying? I suppose you could give it a try and let us know if it appears there's any difference.